they run at ~120degrees. stock bulbs run at ~260

are you planning on putting a cap on them?

the blue that are going your way do not come with any cap or filter. they are clear and look identical to the white or any other color when off. over their life of 11 years the output will fade slowly; but the color will always remain true.

 

keep in mind these work mostly anywhere that uses the 168/194 bulb, like the license plates.

 

I might be picking up another set for this location

 

Bought the light because of the pix in this thread ... damn you DJK lol

thanks again ares for offering us the look good stuff

jim

 

hey ares, how about making some turn signals and reverse lights? I would be all over those in a heartbeat.
Oh yeah, how do i buy these? i'm thinking of purchasing a pair. can you PM me with info? Thanks.

 

I have the website in my sig that you can order through; but it has the 5$ higher price. so for now PM or email me. the payments go through paypal or money order.

I am working on the turn signals; hopefully finished in 1-2weeks.

 

What are the LED specs? (sorry if I missed them earlier)

 

they are luxeon LEDs. running at 100mA. because they are running at 100 instead of 350; I do not know the exact light output of them. the maker only give maximum specs. I estimate it to be around 10lumens and 110degrees.

 

LEDs are square law devices, so at 100 mA you should be running around 53% of their rated brightness at 350mA.

Assuming you're using a Type I Batwing Luxeon, your typical output should be around 13 Lumens. Viewing angle is a little more difficult, but for all intents and purposes, you can assume a similar viewing angle of 110 degrees.

I have a bit of a problem with how Lumileds rate their brightness, though. The industry standard for viewing angle is for 50% brightness level, but they choose to measure theirs at an angle where 90% of the luminous flux is captured...not an even scale. I'd point everyone to my website for more details, but since it's a retail site and I'm not yet a sponsor, you'll just have to trust me. Granted, those LEDs are WAY bright and most aren't going to argue either way, but it's something to consider when thinking about how bright they truly are. In some cases, they list their viewing angle as the same angle at which 90% of their luminous flux is displayed, not the industry standard of 50%, so in a nutshell what I'm saying is "Just because the numbers say you should get 13 Lumens out of the device at 100mA, it's not as bright as another manufacturer's 13 Lumens who plays by the rules."

If I had to make an eduacted guess, I would say their true viewing angle is closer to 60-65 degrees.

 

the real pain is that my other source of LEDs doesnt rate theirs in lumens at all; but instead microcandella. not quite the same unit; though theres a rough conversion for it.

I have my doubts on whether they are properly rated either.

 

Here's some basic info to help sort out the details (or merely confuse the issue). Since the two values are not directly related, multiplying by a constant doesn't quite work, but I'll play along wiht the idea for simplicity...

A 1W bulb is equivalent to 683 lumens at a wavelength of 555 nm (green). However, this is a measure of light coming from every direction, so imagine the measuring device totally surrounding the bulb. This value also decreases as the wavelength increases or decreases, so any 1W bulb with a color other than pure green will have a lower luminous intensity value.

A unit most aren't familiar with is the steradian, a 3D angle. Imagine this as a cone of light with the tip at the LEDs center. If you measure a lightbulb, you enclose the entire lightbulb which is a value of 12.57 steradians (or 4*pi). Since LEDs shine the majority of their light out the front, the 3D angle with which they are measured is significantly less. A 2000 mcd 30° LED puts out just as much light as an 8000 mcd LED with a 15° viewing angle (the angle is half in both width and height, so the beam is four times as bright).

In a nutshell, here's the formula:
Luminous Intensity = lm/(2π*sr)
where 1 cd = 1 lm/sr (1000 millicandela = 1 lumen/steradian)

Confused yet? The point is, to convert one value into the other, you have to consider over what 3D angle (steradaian) you are considering. Since LEDs are rated with viewing angles, you now have a steradian value to work with. Here's the formula for steradians:

sr = 2π(1 - cos(θ/2))
where θ/2 = viewing angle/2

If the viewing angle is 110° for this specific Luxeon, then the steradian measurement is 2π(1-cos(55°)) = 2.679 sr.

Anybody need alcohol at this point?

 

wow that explanation hurt my head

 

i have canadian spec z, is the parking light same as our day time running light?
waht bulbs do i need exactly to get rid of all the yellow color or bulb to give my headlight a blue look all the time? do u have them? ie turn signal bulb?

 

good question what makes your bulbs blue.....how much are the parking lights running for now ares???? PM me i am very insterested in your prices.....thanks

Ben

 

1. your day time running light is actually your "brights" on ~60% power. not your parking light.

2. the parking light of course, and the turn signal bulb. lastly during the day; you would have to get a hyper white bulb to replace your brights. LEDs could never match the output of a headlight bulb with the size constraints.

the turn signal bulb should be out in 2 weeks or so.

3. these are LEDs. Ill post a photo later; but you can tell absolutely no difference between blue, cyan, white, or any other color when its not lit. they do not use ANY filters. As a matter of fact; if you had to call anything a filter; the white would be the closest to having one. these means there is no color to the lights in the housing(other than the black heatsink). and there is no way the color could burn off.

 

OT: Sorry...MacGyver, I need help finding a good solder tool.

I need a really fine tip so I can solder board electronics, and be able to solder wrapping wire as well.

Of course, I'll be doing alot of LED work as well... but the cheap 25w RadioShack iron is horrible.

I'm assuming you have lots of experience in the electronics field, so I was hoping you might have some suggestions.

Thanks!

-Phuong

 

Actually Brian, you can "burn" off the color. Just throw in 18V of "holy shiznit what in the world?" power to the LEDs. If you're lucky... you can get any of them to light up red/orange.

With white LEDs... the blue LED die lights up so bright the wavelength doesn't correspond to what the yellow phospher could handle... so you'll get this nice aqua blue color. Then smoke come out afterwards.

 

I guess you do have a point there. hah.

disclaimer: not responsable for curious folk wondering what "aqua blue" looks like.

I only gave it 12volts; and didnt get any smoke or red/ orange or aqua colors. not sure what color it was; only blipped on and was gone for ever. *mental note:use 18volts next time.*

 

heres some more photos.

first the blue. BRILLIANT color to it. I may swap a set of these in. very impressive output.






this is a LED I purchased a while back for comparison; but then lost. well its found again. you can find these all over the net, but heres the pictures. just so you can compare and get an idea of the difference.

*The coloring of this IS ACCURATE. you are not seeing camera tricks; taken with a rebel SLR camera. both taken in the same position; same place, same camera. they ARE purple and yellow(supposed to be white), look between the purple beams for the yellow streaks.




and my whites that you see on DJK's

 

I'm interested in getting some of these for the parking lights but I'd like to get them for the rear license plate and for the turn signal when you finish. Any chance of making a package together at a later date or lower prices if you buy more at the same time?