Painting Center Console.
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From: Sesame Street
Painting Center Console.
Hi amigos! I need some help here. I want to dress up my interior in a tasteful way. I am pretty handy, so I plan on painting my center console.
I plan on sanding it smooth then primer, painting, clear coat, followed by wet sanding, followed by waxing the Sh*t out of it with a rotary buffer. My car is an SB track of course so I plan on painting it in black. I want the finish to be even smoother and shinier than the exterior.
I see this as an easy mod, because I will enjoy the work and I can take my time as I dont forsee problems driving without the center console.
I have experience, as I once painted the fuel tank on my old Honda motorcycle but I have questions.
#1 Can I use regular automotive paint on the plastic?? or will I have problems: ie paint solvents attacking plastic, not binding to plastic etc.
#2 If I paint the part above the HVAC controls all the way past the ancilliary gauges (an area not subject to scratches from shifting etc.) Can I expect it to last?
#3 Do I have to sand between coats? If so, how long should I let it dry between sandings??
#4 If no sanding is required between coats, how long should I wait in between applying coats?
#5 How many coats should I apply?
#6 Can anyone reccomend any low risk curing methods that will harden and make the finish more durable? Ie leaving in sun.
#7 Will this look awesome or what? !!
As I state sometimes, I am interested in opinions from people who know their ****! Or those who have attempted the above. Please no uneducated half assed speculations. I can do that myself!
Edit: Actually uneducated half-assed speculations are welcome on #7, just not the others.
My heartfelt thanks go out to anyone who can answer all 7!
I plan on sanding it smooth then primer, painting, clear coat, followed by wet sanding, followed by waxing the Sh*t out of it with a rotary buffer. My car is an SB track of course so I plan on painting it in black. I want the finish to be even smoother and shinier than the exterior.
I see this as an easy mod, because I will enjoy the work and I can take my time as I dont forsee problems driving without the center console.
I have experience, as I once painted the fuel tank on my old Honda motorcycle but I have questions.
#1 Can I use regular automotive paint on the plastic?? or will I have problems: ie paint solvents attacking plastic, not binding to plastic etc.
#2 If I paint the part above the HVAC controls all the way past the ancilliary gauges (an area not subject to scratches from shifting etc.) Can I expect it to last?
#3 Do I have to sand between coats? If so, how long should I let it dry between sandings??
#4 If no sanding is required between coats, how long should I wait in between applying coats?
#5 How many coats should I apply?
#6 Can anyone reccomend any low risk curing methods that will harden and make the finish more durable? Ie leaving in sun.
#7 Will this look awesome or what? !!
As I state sometimes, I am interested in opinions from people who know their ****! Or those who have attempted the above. Please no uneducated half assed speculations. I can do that myself!
Edit: Actually uneducated half-assed speculations are welcome on #7, just not the others.
My heartfelt thanks go out to anyone who can answer all 7!
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Re: Painting Center Console.
Originally posted by joust75
Honda motorcycle but I have questions.
#1 Can I use regular automotive paint on the plastic?? or will I have problems: ie paint solvents attacking plastic, not binding to plastic etc.
Honda motorcycle but I have questions.
#1 Can I use regular automotive paint on the plastic?? or will I have problems: ie paint solvents attacking plastic, not binding to plastic etc.
-Jon
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From: .
while i admire your *****...
-this is gonna kill your resale
-painted plastic is going to glare BIG time in your front window. You'll be driving around looking at your dashboard in the window.
-Painting plastic is a bad idea for an interior..if it gets scraped by a shoe for example you have to repaint the whole thing for it to look right.
its your ride, but just putting in my 2 cents.
-this is gonna kill your resale
-painted plastic is going to glare BIG time in your front window. You'll be driving around looking at your dashboard in the window.
-Painting plastic is a bad idea for an interior..if it gets scraped by a shoe for example you have to repaint the whole thing for it to look right.
its your ride, but just putting in my 2 cents.
I had my center console done before on my Celica. ity was done by a bodyshop using regular PPG paint.
The glare will not bother you. My freind has his painted Sunset and hasn't had a problem and it looks tasteful. It will not easlily scratch either.
It will take alot prep work to do it right prep (sand it well primer it and paint it). I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself I have seen nightmare paint jobs done this way.
Our console is not cheap I would save yourself the trouble and have a body shop do it. it looks better and their reponsible if they F it up.
The glare will not bother you. My freind has his painted Sunset and hasn't had a problem and it looks tasteful. It will not easlily scratch either.
It will take alot prep work to do it right prep (sand it well primer it and paint it). I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself I have seen nightmare paint jobs done this way.
Our console is not cheap I would save yourself the trouble and have a body shop do it. it looks better and their reponsible if they F it up.
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From: Sesame Street
Originally posted by zeroday
while i admire your *****...
-this is gonna kill your resale
-painted plastic is going to glare BIG time in your front window. You'll be driving around looking at your dashboard in the window.
-Painting plastic is a bad idea for an interior..if it gets scraped by a shoe for example you have to repaint the whole thing for it to look right.
its your ride, but just putting in my 2 cents.
while i admire your *****...
-this is gonna kill your resale
-painted plastic is going to glare BIG time in your front window. You'll be driving around looking at your dashboard in the window.
-Painting plastic is a bad idea for an interior..if it gets scraped by a shoe for example you have to repaint the whole thing for it to look right.
its your ride, but just putting in my 2 cents.
-Glare I dont anticipate to be a problem either seeing as many have had their center consoles done. Even Red 6 was able to chime in on this.
- My exterior paint has alot more to stand up to than my UPPER CENTER CONSOLE so I dont think wear will be an issue.
I thank you for considering the possibility of shoe or high heel scrapes on the freshly painted dash, but I cant imagine the contortions of that. I worry more about my Upper driver seat
Now can anyone forsee any real problems??
edit
my bad... i misread this... i thought he was painting the whole dash board...sorry.
Only the worst offender would be dumb enough to paint the whole dash!
Last edited by joust75; Jan 23, 2004 at 09:00 AM.
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From: tacoma
1) Remove all interior pieces.
2) Use a DA, which is an orbital sander, with 80 grit and sand all the pieces 100%. Not 95%, but every single inch all the corners, edges, etc. A lot of this is going to have to be done by hand. Also when sanding with the DA keep the DA flat, if not you can dig a hole instantly.
4) Clean all your parts with wax and grease remover.
5) Plastic prime all your parts using a hvlp paint gun; use the same gun for all directions. Basically the plastic prime is thin and clear, almost like water, it promotes adhesion of the primer.
6) Prime all of your parts with about 5-6 medium coats. Use a urethane primer with flex additive. You will need to wait about 15-20 mins in between coats depending on temperature. This also depends on what reducer you used in your primer, the paint store will help you out with that. Do not run the primer, but still put enough on. A run in a tough spot will be hard to fix.
7) Wait two days for primer to dry and shrink. Warmth helps this.
8) Guide coat all your pieces.
9) Sand every inch with 180 grit sandpaper, only use DA on flat surfaces, the rest do by hand with a variety of different sized sanding blocks and fingers.
10) Reprime once again with 6-7 coats of the same primer&let dry
11) Guide coat parts.
12) Sand every inch with 320 grit sandpaper only using blocks and fingers.
13) Guide coat all your parts again.
14) Wet sand every inch of your parts with 600 grit sandpaper.
15) Wax and grease your parts three times.
16) Use a tack cloth and tack all of your parts.
17) Spray black base coat about 3-4 medium to light coats of color. Wait about 15 mins in between coats. If there is a large piece of dirt wait a little longer and 600 wet sand out and spray more color. Use a flash light and make sure you have achieved coverage with your color. It will look all flat black.
18) All of the previous was easy, LOL, no for the clear coat. Spray 3 medium coats waiting 20 mins in between coats. Make sure on the last coat everything is wet and shiny, but not running. Once you begin to clear there is no fixing anything until it is dry the next day.
19) Install parts.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
2) Use a DA, which is an orbital sander, with 80 grit and sand all the pieces 100%. Not 95%, but every single inch all the corners, edges, etc. A lot of this is going to have to be done by hand. Also when sanding with the DA keep the DA flat, if not you can dig a hole instantly.
4) Clean all your parts with wax and grease remover.
5) Plastic prime all your parts using a hvlp paint gun; use the same gun for all directions. Basically the plastic prime is thin and clear, almost like water, it promotes adhesion of the primer.
6) Prime all of your parts with about 5-6 medium coats. Use a urethane primer with flex additive. You will need to wait about 15-20 mins in between coats depending on temperature. This also depends on what reducer you used in your primer, the paint store will help you out with that. Do not run the primer, but still put enough on. A run in a tough spot will be hard to fix.
7) Wait two days for primer to dry and shrink. Warmth helps this.
8) Guide coat all your pieces.
9) Sand every inch with 180 grit sandpaper, only use DA on flat surfaces, the rest do by hand with a variety of different sized sanding blocks and fingers.
10) Reprime once again with 6-7 coats of the same primer&let dry
11) Guide coat parts.
12) Sand every inch with 320 grit sandpaper only using blocks and fingers.
13) Guide coat all your parts again.
14) Wet sand every inch of your parts with 600 grit sandpaper.
15) Wax and grease your parts three times.
16) Use a tack cloth and tack all of your parts.
17) Spray black base coat about 3-4 medium to light coats of color. Wait about 15 mins in between coats. If there is a large piece of dirt wait a little longer and 600 wet sand out and spray more color. Use a flash light and make sure you have achieved coverage with your color. It will look all flat black.
18) All of the previous was easy, LOL, no for the clear coat. Spray 3 medium coats waiting 20 mins in between coats. Make sure on the last coat everything is wet and shiny, but not running. Once you begin to clear there is no fixing anything until it is dry the next day.
19) Install parts.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
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From: Anaheim, CA
Originally posted by joenismo
1) Remove all interior pieces.
2) Use a DA, which is an orbital sander, with 80 grit and sand all the pieces 100%. Not 95%, but every single inch all the corners, edges, etc. A lot of this is going to have to be done by hand. Also when sanding with the DA keep the DA flat, if not you can dig a hole instantly.
4) Clean all your parts with wax and grease remover.
5) Plastic prime all your parts using a hvlp paint gun; use the same gun for all directions. Basically the plastic prime is thin and clear, almost like water, it promotes adhesion of the primer.
6) Prime all of your parts with about 5-6 medium coats. Use a urethane primer with flex additive. You will need to wait about 15-20 mins in between coats depending on temperature. This also depends on what reducer you used in your primer, the paint store will help you out with that. Do not run the primer, but still put enough on. A run in a tough spot will be hard to fix.
7) Wait two days for primer to dry and shrink. Warmth helps this.
8) Guide coat all your pieces.
9) Sand every inch with 180 grit sandpaper, only use DA on flat surfaces, the rest do by hand with a variety of different sized sanding blocks and fingers.
10) Reprime once again with 6-7 coats of the same primer&let dry
11) Guide coat parts.
12) Sand every inch with 320 grit sandpaper only using blocks and fingers.
13) Guide coat all your parts again.
14) Wet sand every inch of your parts with 600 grit sandpaper.
15) Wax and grease your parts three times.
16) Use a tack cloth and tack all of your parts.
17) Spray black base coat about 3-4 medium to light coats of color. Wait about 15 mins in between coats. If there is a large piece of dirt wait a little longer and 600 wet sand out and spray more color. Use a flash light and make sure you have achieved coverage with your color. It will look all flat black.
18) All of the previous was easy, LOL, no for the clear coat. Spray 3 medium coats waiting 20 mins in between coats. Make sure on the last coat everything is wet and shiny, but not running. Once you begin to clear there is no fixing anything until it is dry the next day.
19) Install parts.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
1) Remove all interior pieces.
2) Use a DA, which is an orbital sander, with 80 grit and sand all the pieces 100%. Not 95%, but every single inch all the corners, edges, etc. A lot of this is going to have to be done by hand. Also when sanding with the DA keep the DA flat, if not you can dig a hole instantly.
4) Clean all your parts with wax and grease remover.
5) Plastic prime all your parts using a hvlp paint gun; use the same gun for all directions. Basically the plastic prime is thin and clear, almost like water, it promotes adhesion of the primer.
6) Prime all of your parts with about 5-6 medium coats. Use a urethane primer with flex additive. You will need to wait about 15-20 mins in between coats depending on temperature. This also depends on what reducer you used in your primer, the paint store will help you out with that. Do not run the primer, but still put enough on. A run in a tough spot will be hard to fix.
7) Wait two days for primer to dry and shrink. Warmth helps this.
8) Guide coat all your pieces.
9) Sand every inch with 180 grit sandpaper, only use DA on flat surfaces, the rest do by hand with a variety of different sized sanding blocks and fingers.
10) Reprime once again with 6-7 coats of the same primer&let dry
11) Guide coat parts.
12) Sand every inch with 320 grit sandpaper only using blocks and fingers.
13) Guide coat all your parts again.
14) Wet sand every inch of your parts with 600 grit sandpaper.
15) Wax and grease your parts three times.
16) Use a tack cloth and tack all of your parts.
17) Spray black base coat about 3-4 medium to light coats of color. Wait about 15 mins in between coats. If there is a large piece of dirt wait a little longer and 600 wet sand out and spray more color. Use a flash light and make sure you have achieved coverage with your color. It will look all flat black.
18) All of the previous was easy, LOL, no for the clear coat. Spray 3 medium coats waiting 20 mins in between coats. Make sure on the last coat everything is wet and shiny, but not running. Once you begin to clear there is no fixing anything until it is dry the next day.
19) Install parts.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
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From: Sesame Street
Originally posted by joenismo
1) Remove all interior pieces.
etc.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
1) Remove all interior pieces.
etc.
This is a basic summary to painting anything from plastic parts to your entire vehicle. Lots of work, any doubts you can always pay someone to do it. There can be short cuts to these directions but this is a sure way, and the best way.
You are the man! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. You answered most of my questions.
Thanks also Pinnacle Liquid!
I dont think I will be buying a spray gun for this. I will be doing can painting. I know it comes out orange peel, but I will be doing wet sanding on the finished product.
It worked when I painted my cycle. Thanks again guys.
Does anyone have any pics of a painted center console?
*edit* What the heck is guide coating??
Last edited by joust75; Jan 24, 2004 at 01:21 PM.
everything u ever wanted to see on a dash....
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
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From: Anaheim, CA
Thanks for the plug Brian and
Originally posted by Elitemotion
everything u ever wanted to see on a dash....
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
everything u ever wanted to see on a dash....
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
Rich
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From: Sesame Street
I have received some good info so far, so I will push for more. With proper answers, I'll be starting my project in a few days! I am concerned with the removal of the main console piece. The one that extends down around the shifter, I have taken off before no prob.
But as for the main one:
1. Hard to get off? After I back out the two screws on the bottom where it meets the other console piece whats next?? Just pull, or are there hidden screws?
2. I will want to paint the door seperately does that come off easily?
3. Are the stereo and the ancilliary gauges attached to the console I will remove, or to some sort of sub-frame.
4. Once I remove the center console can I still drive and have my HU and ancilliary gauges stay put?
5. In case I want to just buy a set of console pieces and paint them before I uninstall anything, how much do they cost??
Thanks!
Thanks for the link bro. I found a pic that basically shows what I want to do. Wrong color, but it is a clean well done job and it has inspired me I will attach it for those who are following the thread. I think it will also let people know that I am not ricing out!
With proper answers, I'll be starting my project in a few days! I am concerned with the removal of the main console piece. The one that extends down around the shifter, I have taken off before no prob.But as for the main one:
1. Hard to get off? After I back out the two screws on the bottom where it meets the other console piece whats next?? Just pull, or are there hidden screws?
2. I will want to paint the door seperately does that come off easily?
3. Are the stereo and the ancilliary gauges attached to the console I will remove, or to some sort of sub-frame.
4. Once I remove the center console can I still drive and have my HU and ancilliary gauges stay put?
5. In case I want to just buy a set of console pieces and paint them before I uninstall anything, how much do they cost??
Thanks!
Originally posted by Elitemotion
everything u ever wanted to see on a dash....
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
everything u ever wanted to see on a dash....
http://www.350zonline.com/gallery/album262
including pinnacle liquid's awsome jobs
Thanks for the link bro. I found a pic that basically shows what I want to do. Wrong color, but it is a clean well done job and it has inspired me
I will attach it for those who are following the thread. I think it will also let people know that I am not ricing out!
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From: tacoma
Originally posted by joust75
You are the man! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. You answered most of my questions.
Thanks also Pinnacle Liquid!
I dont think I will be buying a spray gun for this. I will be doing can painting. I know it comes out orange peel, but I will be doing wet sanding on the finished product.
It worked when I painted my cycle. Thanks again guys.
Does anyone have any pics of a painted center console?
*edit* What the heck is guide coating??
You are the man! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. You answered most of my questions.
Thanks also Pinnacle Liquid!
I dont think I will be buying a spray gun for this. I will be doing can painting. I know it comes out orange peel, but I will be doing wet sanding on the finished product.
It worked when I painted my cycle. Thanks again guys.
Does anyone have any pics of a painted center console?
*edit* What the heck is guide coating??
You can not do this project using krylon rattle can from the grocery store. You will not get the build up of primer that is necessary to get rid of the texture. If this is how you are planning on doing it you may as well not even start. It will look bad, won't have any protection from chipping, chemicals, even a coffee spill. Even if you got it to look half way decent, a year from now it will look like some highschoolers honda, all chipped off looking like crap. I would say do it professionally, follow my directions, or don't do it at all.
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From: Anaheim, CA
Oh my, you are kidding right?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by joust75
[B]You are the man! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. You answered most of my questions.
Thanks also Pinnacle Liquid!
I dont think I will be buying a spray gun for this. I will be doing can painting. I know it comes out orange peel, but I will be doing wet sanding on the finished product.
It worked when I painted my cycle. Thanks again guys.
It's gonna have orangepeel like your mommies washing machine and the chemical resistance of your sister's finger paints. Please don't do this thing. Joenismo speaks the truth.
[B]You are the man! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer. You answered most of my questions.
Thanks also Pinnacle Liquid!
I dont think I will be buying a spray gun for this. I will be doing can painting. I know it comes out orange peel, but I will be doing wet sanding on the finished product.
It worked when I painted my cycle. Thanks again guys.
It's gonna have orangepeel like your mommies washing machine and the chemical resistance of your sister's finger paints. Please don't do this thing. Joenismo speaks the truth.
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From: Sesame Street
i dont understand.... I am not talking about Krylon!
I am talking about paint that comes in cans at auo parts stores.
Its labled automotive paint (No not hi temp engine paint or anything like that...) This is gloss enamel and it states it is intended for auto body and things like this.
Do they try to sell this paint like this because people dont know any better?
A derisive tone is not necessary, I am not stupid, nor did I ever intend to paint the console with Krylon. 
The spray can paints from auto parts establishments state they are for autobody use, so I figured the primer and gloss enamels they offer are intended for (and adequate) for small jobs. If this paint has the same make up , why would they have less chemical resistance, be more prone to chipping etc.??? I am not worried about a proper build-up, because I am sanding the texture off the dash anyway.
So maybe if it is not too much too ask, could someone explain in a non-derisive way, What these spray enamels are good for and why these self proclaimed 'autobody enamels' are indeed not good for the job.
I am talking about paint that comes in cans at auo parts stores.
Its labled automotive paint (No not hi temp engine paint or anything like that...) This is gloss enamel and it states it is intended for auto body and things like this.
Do they try to sell this paint like this because people dont know any better?
You can not do this project using krylon rattle can from the grocery store. You will not get the build up of primer that is necessary to get rid of the texture.
It's gonna have orangepeel like your mommies washing machine and the chemical resistance of your sister's finger paints. Please don't do this thing. Joenismo speaks the truth.
The spray can paints from auto parts establishments state they are for autobody use, so I figured the primer and gloss enamels they offer are intended for (and adequate) for small jobs. If this paint has the same make up , why would they have less chemical resistance, be more prone to chipping etc.??? I am not worried about a proper build-up, because I am sanding the texture off the dash anyway.
So maybe if it is not too much too ask, could someone explain in a non-derisive way, What these spray enamels are good for and why these self proclaimed 'autobody enamels' are indeed not good for the job.
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From: Anaheim, CA
MY BAD - but please lighten up!
Just having some fun. No harm intended. But chemical resistance is not available in those spray cans. Whether Krylon or the 'made for the body shop professional' kind they are basically the same. For chemical resistance and further processing the paint needs to be activated, and will have a shelf life of only hours to maybe a few days. An activator initiates the curing of the paint. Enamels do not buff well at all. I was just trying to help you realize the job you will do will not come close to a professional job. It will always be apparent to even the untrained eye that it came from a can (or a really bad body shop). The other thing is the sanding. Take care not to sand through as these parts are thin in spots. Especially the lower gauge area of the shifter panel. And if you do not sand carefully you will have flat spots. That will look terrible too. But don't worry, all the parts can be bought for a couple hundred if they get screwed up
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From: Sesame Street
Re: MY BAD - but please lighten up!
Originally posted by pinnacleliquid
Just having some fun. No harm intended. But chemical resistance is not available in those spray cans. Whether Krylon or the 'made for the body shop professional' kind they are basically the same. For chemical resistance and further processing the *truncated*
Just having some fun. No harm intended. But chemical resistance is not available in those spray cans. Whether Krylon or the 'made for the body shop professional' kind they are basically the same. For chemical resistance and further processing the *truncated*
So care to PM me a price for painting the center console Pinnacle?Also, can anyone else offer a cost speculation if I were to drop the console pieces off at a body shop and have them paint em?
Thanks!
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From: Sachse, Texas
You can get paint to match your car paint code from www.paintscratch.com You will want the flex additive. You need this in the primer, basecoat and clearcoat.
One mistake in an earlier post had you cleaning the parts after sanding. You must remove all wax, polish, or protectant before you sand or you will grind it into the plastic.
The other option is to take it to a good body shop and pay them to do it.
One mistake in an earlier post had you cleaning the parts after sanding. You must remove all wax, polish, or protectant before you sand or you will grind it into the plastic.
The other option is to take it to a good body shop and pay them to do it.