INGS - N-Spec Body Kits
#21
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i doubt you saved over $2k.
the frp kit is $2400 from bulletproof and the hybrid-aero is $2800 ... and i know these aren't the lowest prices around. say paint and prep cost you $1k. so you're looking at $3400-$3800 vs $2900. if you're picking up the frp kit, the savings is only $500 ... it's really not that much of a difference, it's definitely not worth getting a lower quality (material wise) piece, imo.
but you're right about waiting .... it sux!! but if you're impatient and have the money ... air shipping rules!
the frp kit is $2400 from bulletproof and the hybrid-aero is $2800 ... and i know these aren't the lowest prices around. say paint and prep cost you $1k. so you're looking at $3400-$3800 vs $2900. if you're picking up the frp kit, the savings is only $500 ... it's really not that much of a difference, it's definitely not worth getting a lower quality (material wise) piece, imo.
but you're right about waiting .... it sux!! but if you're impatient and have the money ... air shipping rules!
#22
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the difference is one is real, one is not. .
Not all the "JDM" kits have fantastic quality either. Remember, the Japanese know how to produce things on a budget too, so just because its advertised as being made in Japan, does not mean the quality is any better than made in East LA. Case in point, the Balsarini rear spoiler I have on my car. Many would have considered the quality good judging by the posts I see on this board. That's not to come off as snobbish, but just to say that many people don't have a great fram of reference when it comes to aero parts (being in the business I have seen utter crap and I have seen superior to factory spec parts for all sorts of cars). The rear wing I got (genuine), took me 6 hours to prep before it was ready for paint.....and it's still not without it's flaws. That would be an additional $400-$600 in prep work (no paint) at a good body shop in our area. That makes for an expensive rear spoiler.
By comparison, the Veilside pieces I have needed zero prep (just a light sand to get it ready for paint), and the C West skirts I have needed about 20 minutes of prep each....it was WELL worth the investment.
Does this mean you cannot get a quality part? Absolutely not. We deal with one place in particular that has done some replica work for us before with Subaru's with amazig results. However, these are the distinct exceptions, not the rules. Best bet IMHO is goto a local meet...see what people have. Don't just take someone's word that "my kit fits great". Look over the car carefully. Ask what shop did the work - maybe even talk to the person who actually did the work and ask him/her what they thought of it. At the end of the day, the genuine kits often look better and better.
Adam
That being said, the INGS parts are very nice quality, with minimal prep required.
Not all the "JDM" kits have fantastic quality either. Remember, the Japanese know how to produce things on a budget too, so just because its advertised as being made in Japan, does not mean the quality is any better than made in East LA. Case in point, the Balsarini rear spoiler I have on my car. Many would have considered the quality good judging by the posts I see on this board. That's not to come off as snobbish, but just to say that many people don't have a great fram of reference when it comes to aero parts (being in the business I have seen utter crap and I have seen superior to factory spec parts for all sorts of cars). The rear wing I got (genuine), took me 6 hours to prep before it was ready for paint.....and it's still not without it's flaws. That would be an additional $400-$600 in prep work (no paint) at a good body shop in our area. That makes for an expensive rear spoiler.
By comparison, the Veilside pieces I have needed zero prep (just a light sand to get it ready for paint), and the C West skirts I have needed about 20 minutes of prep each....it was WELL worth the investment.
Does this mean you cannot get a quality part? Absolutely not. We deal with one place in particular that has done some replica work for us before with Subaru's with amazig results. However, these are the distinct exceptions, not the rules. Best bet IMHO is goto a local meet...see what people have. Don't just take someone's word that "my kit fits great". Look over the car carefully. Ask what shop did the work - maybe even talk to the person who actually did the work and ask him/her what they thought of it. At the end of the day, the genuine kits often look better and better.
Adam
That being said, the INGS parts are very nice quality, with minimal prep required.
#23
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Moraccan, even the original kits require prep. Like Adam said, everyone has a different idea of what PERFECT is. I imagine that lots of body shops would be perfectly OK painting my wavy body kit for $800...maybe less. But to REALLY get it perfect...original or not...it requires blocking and sanding, filling, and perfecting the surface. That's my opinion with fiberglass or FRP...it just rarely comes out flawless out of the box. Now, I've seen lot of kits...Greddy...Veilside...etc....where from a distance, the kits look terrific. But get up really close...and I mean close...and you can see the minor flaws. Seams that doent match just right, elevation, changes, waviness, etc. A REALLY good body shop will clean all those minor flaws up...but to a lot of customers...they dont really care, or even notice. So it's really up to the individual to determine how they'd like their kit to look.
And like you said...even if you only save $1000 by going replica, I just dont have the patience to wait for months to get my body kit!
And like you said...even if you only save $1000 by going replica, I just dont have the patience to wait for months to get my body kit!
#24
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Originally posted by myz8a4re
Sharif, how did everything go with the body repairs on the z? Was it just body or was there any suspension damage as well? I think the initial D kit looks great on your car!
-justin
Sharif, how did everything go with the body repairs on the z? Was it just body or was there any suspension damage as well? I think the initial D kit looks great on your car!
-justin
The car is still not done. Needs about 1 more week to finish...so that would be a grand total of 8 weeks in the shop, and over $25,000 in repairs. Fortunately, the frame was stright, and it was just really nasty body panel damage, and one or two bent suspension pieces. And of course..my shiny volk wheels had a nice matte scratch finish to them....it was starting to grow on me.
The great thing is the body shop guy is an expert, and REALLY knows what he doing. I think the car will perfect. He is also doing some free custom work for. Repainting the entire car and color sanding, filling in the holes for the rear Nissan emblem, radio antennae, and rear windshield wiper. So it will be totally smooth in the back! I cant wait.
Thanks for asking.
#25
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sorry to remind you sharif, i was wondering since i havent heard much about it since the post of the original pictures the day of the accident.......glad things are going good with the bodyshop, im anxious for you as well to get it back. let us know how everything turn out......
-justin
-justin
#26
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Originally posted by gq_626
Moraccan, even the original kits require prep. Like Adam said, everyone has a different idea of what PERFECT is. I imagine that lots of body shops would be perfectly OK painting my wavy body kit for $800...maybe less. But to REALLY get it perfect...original or not...it requires blocking and sanding, filling, and perfecting the surface. That's my opinion with fiberglass or FRP...it just rarely comes out flawless out of the box. Now, I've seen lot of kits...Greddy...Veilside...etc....where from a distance, the kits look terrific. But get up really close...and I mean close...and you can see the minor flaws. Seams that doent match just right, elevation, changes, waviness, etc. A REALLY good body shop will clean all those minor flaws up...but to a lot of customers...they dont really care, or even notice. So it's really up to the individual to determine how they'd like their kit to look.
And like you said...even if you only save $1000 by going replica, I just dont have the patience to wait for months to get my body kit!
Moraccan, even the original kits require prep. Like Adam said, everyone has a different idea of what PERFECT is. I imagine that lots of body shops would be perfectly OK painting my wavy body kit for $800...maybe less. But to REALLY get it perfect...original or not...it requires blocking and sanding, filling, and perfecting the surface. That's my opinion with fiberglass or FRP...it just rarely comes out flawless out of the box. Now, I've seen lot of kits...Greddy...Veilside...etc....where from a distance, the kits look terrific. But get up really close...and I mean close...and you can see the minor flaws. Seams that doent match just right, elevation, changes, waviness, etc. A REALLY good body shop will clean all those minor flaws up...but to a lot of customers...they dont really care, or even notice. So it's really up to the individual to determine how they'd like their kit to look.
And like you said...even if you only save $1000 by going replica, I just dont have the patience to wait for months to get my body kit!
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