Thanks. I would just hate to see this kind of info get buried in a section that isn't really viewed that often.

Best bet, just pin it at the top of the FI section where every future FI owner is drawn to, anyone else in favor??

 

With out getting too off topic of building up engines and doing FI right the first time....

I was running 8psi at an altitude of 5500 feet here in NM which is close to running 7psi at sea level. Before I went past stock boost, I was also pulling timing with the timing harness (with the diodes installed).

RPM...about 4000RPM in third gear

It was definately tuned for the psi I was running and had a AFR around 11.5 pretty much across the board. I was getting about 383rwhp actual hp not corrected with SAE for my altitude.

For alot more of the details, just PM me.

 

is there any merit to a quick definition of short block and long block in this thread?

 

Short block=the bottom end "block", crank, pistons rods..etc...essentially everything below the head gasket.

Long block=short block+heads.

Ya wonder why they didnt call it short block and tall block???

 

sooooo the short block "DOES" come with the crank? In the beginning of this post, going deep said that it didn't include the crank. Which is correct?

 

A short block DOES. goingdeep is talking about buying just the block from someone else. A shortblock is already assembled.

 

I guess a better term for GoingDeep's original post is to buy yourself a new "block".

 

Okay, the term short block does include everything sharif mentioned, the crank, rods, pistons,...I should have used the term cylinder block instead which does not include the OEM rods and pistons. I should have made that distinction from the begining, but I was also relying on my diagram where I reference item 1 when I called it a small block. If you were to buy a short block from Nissan, it would cost you alot more than the 1300 I stated.
In my plan I said it will cost you about 1300, and that is based off of this site here and they call it a cylinder block:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...04&catalogid=1

 

Stuck.

 

Thanks, I hope all this info helps out fellow FI recruits

 

Good post for the basics however, not to be a troll, but we all know there are many people who have run forced induction with no engine problems, and although the info is good if you wish to build the motor, i feel it will scare some people away for FI land. I myself have over 78,000 miles on my Z with 8000 of those on my APS TT kit with my stock block with no problems.. Pushing well over 400 whp. And these are beat, hard, miles.... And my only other comment, is that a engine builder should be able to do the job in a bout a week or two, not 4-6... Thats all! Enjoy!

 

good luck, more power to ya!

a week or two is UNHEARD of among anyone I know who have rebuilt engines (but i agree, it looks good on paper-or online for that matter!)

 

We just got ours back about 2 weeks ago for our other car. had pistons, rods, crank installed and balanced and then the complete long block reassembled with the cams being set and all the chains, hardware, etc, and took about 2 weeks... Guess it just depends on how busy the bulider is... Eitehr way, its definately nice to have a core to work with...

 

i'm right there with you man! I would have loved to have had my car done 2 months ago, i had a few hurdles: bearings came in that were the incorrect size, my shop happens to be building 2 z's at one time, going deep's and mine...this presents another timeline issue..and they had several jobs in front of us..we blew our motors and they tried to accomodate the best that they could! i wish it was 2 weeks, this is a lesson to be learned for all....have a built block (or entire longblock if doing headwork-for that matter)...then you are only looking at a week or so of downtime when you switch motors...instead of a possible and very probable 2 months, when the motor blows unexpectedly!
one3502nv: are you building you Z soon?, curious of how you are going about the project.

TODD

 

Hell, the physical machining and disassembly/assembly of the motor should take no more than a week at any competent machine shop. The problem is NISSAN's freaken delays at getting us the proper bearings. And then when they send them, they are damaged or otherwise messed up in transit, and the clearances are wrong again? I went through this twice. Most of us spent a good 2-4 weeks just waiting for parts. And the bearings are something that cannot be preordered until you get the block and crank numbers, and match everything up. And even then, you might get the wrong ones, since you are installing new rods. There are just so many variables, that is nearly impossible to get everything right without a few mid course corrections. And all the more reason that all clearances and spec need to be double checked...and then checked one more time.

Regarding your car, I have no doubt many people will get thousands of miles of carefree boosting out of the stock block. I got 14,000 out of mine...and fortunately didnt blow anything up before tearing it down for the rebuild. But the questtion of longevity comes into play...and also...if you intend to run 500whp plus, low compression forged internals become manditory..>IMHO.

 

What does the + $2000 core mean?

Upgraded Long Block #2: $6000 + $2000 Core

 

Hey Shariff~
Really excited to hear that your car is about to take it's first breath as a TRUE MONSTER! I think myself, as well as a "couple" others are living through you and other peoples' projects coming to fruition here on the boards. How valuable all of your experiences will be to us when we can catch up
Quick question for you. You stated that you went 9.0:1 for your compression. I also remember you saying that you wish you would have went lower. What made you change your mind in wanting lower compression? Was it just to have more power safely?
I was thinking of going 9.3:1 or as you have 9.0:1 when the time comes for me. Of course I am looking for the best balance in safe boosting and retaining my engines torque before the boost hits. Right now my goal is to have 500 whp and as much longevity out of my APS TT Z as is possible.

 

SUB

 

?

 

I personally went with 9:1 and JWT cams with my soon to install APS setup.
In a few months I'll let you know if I can exceed 500rwhp on crappy 91 pump gas. I don't think that <9:1 is necessary to hit 500rwhp on 91, but I am hedging it with the cams and testpipes. I will also be adding Water injection and a fuel system upgrade eventually which I am sure will permit >>500rwhp on 91, sans detonation.