Need Tips on 3.12" pulley install
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From: Baltimore,MD
Need Tips on 3.12" pulley install
Hey Everyone,
I tried to get my stock 3.33" pulley off last night and gave up after an hour. I read that a few of you all loosened the 3 mounting bolts for the s/c unit and moved it forward enough to slide the stock pulley off. I was not successful and was getting concerned about bending the aluminum mounting plate.
Has anyone used a different proceedure? How hard is it to get to the 4 allen bolts on the back of the jackshaft and slide the assembly back a little?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Steve
I tried to get my stock 3.33" pulley off last night and gave up after an hour. I read that a few of you all loosened the 3 mounting bolts for the s/c unit and moved it forward enough to slide the stock pulley off. I was not successful and was getting concerned about bending the aluminum mounting plate.
Has anyone used a different proceedure? How hard is it to get to the 4 allen bolts on the back of the jackshaft and slide the assembly back a little?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Steve
Some one said they losened up the allen bolts to get it off . Ive never done it that way . Like you said I losened up the top 3 bolts and pryed the blower over far enough with a big screw driver .
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Baltimore,MD
Originally posted by booger
Some one said they losened up the allen bolts to get it off . Ive never done it that way . Like you said I losened up the top 3 bolts and pryed the blower over far enough with a big screw driver .
Some one said they losened up the allen bolts to get it off . Ive never done it that way . Like you said I losened up the top 3 bolts and pryed the blower over far enough with a big screw driver .
How's you engine build up going? I ultimately want to redo my fuel system and build my bottom end as well.
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From: Charlotte, NC
zbicklin...
Here's the easy way (sorry, Boog... I just don't see the mounting bolts solution and prying as the best way... just my .02)
Okay, I don't remember all the exact bolt sizes for particular bolts, but here's what you'll need to the best of my recollection..
14mm socket or wrench
12mm socket
15mm socket or wrench (2)
1/4" Allen wrench (this should be a strong, heavy-duty, long arm Allen. You can pick one up at Sears for a couple of bucks)
Step 1: Release serpentine belt tension. To do this, you must first loosen the 14mm nut on the tensioner pulley. Next, use a 12mm socket to release the tension. Believe it or not, you can do this from the top of the engine if you are limber. Reach down between the timing chain cover and radiator. You should be able to locate the tensioner bolt and get a socket wrench on it. Remove the serpentine belt
Step 2: Remove cogged belt. This is one of those I can't remember. I think it is 14 or 15mm. Anyway, loosen the guide pulley and remove the belt.
Step 3: Loosen Jack Shaft bolts. Another I can't remember, I think it is 15mm... and you will need two tools. One for the bolt on the front of the jack shaft and one for the bolt on the back. If you have trouble breaking both free at the same time, first take the back bolt off (one pointed toward the firewall). The front one can then be remove by putting channel locks or something similar on the pulley to keep it from spinning as you remove the front bolt
Step 4: Remove cogged pulley. With the jack shaft bolts off, remove the rear pulley fromthe jack shaft. BE CAREFUL! There is key for the shaft and pulley. I'd recommend spotting that key and turning the pulley so that it is up. Less chance of dropping it (and possibly losing it!
) in the engine bay that way. The pulley may contact the intake tube for the Vortech when you try to remove it. If so, you should be able to put pressure on the intake tube to give you enough room to wiggle out the cogged pulley.
Step 5: Loosen Jack Shaft mount. Once the cogged pulley has been removed, you should be able to see 4 Allen Head bolts run from the back of the pulley mount that run into the mounting bracket. These are 1/4" Allens and are in tight. You will need to use a heavy duty Allen wrench to remove them. Most likely, you will need some extra leverage to break them loose. I sleeved a hydraulic jack handle over my Allen to turn them.
Step 6: Remove serpentine pulley. Once the Allen bolts are out, you should be able to slide the entire assembly back (toward the firewall) enough to remove the serpentine pulley. BE CAREFUL! Like the cogged pulley, this pulley has a key. Again, try to position the key at the top so there is less danger of it falling out when you remove the pulley.
At this point, you are done disassembling. To put the new pulley back on. Start at Step 6 and work in reverse.
Good Luck!
Sorry, no pics... since I put the 3.33 back on, I figured I'd get pictures when I do this again in the future.
Here's the easy way (sorry, Boog... I just don't see the mounting bolts solution and prying as the best way... just my .02)
Okay, I don't remember all the exact bolt sizes for particular bolts, but here's what you'll need to the best of my recollection..
14mm socket or wrench
12mm socket
15mm socket or wrench (2)
1/4" Allen wrench (this should be a strong, heavy-duty, long arm Allen. You can pick one up at Sears for a couple of bucks)
Step 1: Release serpentine belt tension. To do this, you must first loosen the 14mm nut on the tensioner pulley. Next, use a 12mm socket to release the tension. Believe it or not, you can do this from the top of the engine if you are limber. Reach down between the timing chain cover and radiator. You should be able to locate the tensioner bolt and get a socket wrench on it. Remove the serpentine belt
Step 2: Remove cogged belt. This is one of those I can't remember. I think it is 14 or 15mm. Anyway, loosen the guide pulley and remove the belt.
Step 3: Loosen Jack Shaft bolts. Another I can't remember, I think it is 15mm... and you will need two tools. One for the bolt on the front of the jack shaft and one for the bolt on the back. If you have trouble breaking both free at the same time, first take the back bolt off (one pointed toward the firewall). The front one can then be remove by putting channel locks or something similar on the pulley to keep it from spinning as you remove the front bolt
Step 4: Remove cogged pulley. With the jack shaft bolts off, remove the rear pulley fromthe jack shaft. BE CAREFUL! There is key for the shaft and pulley. I'd recommend spotting that key and turning the pulley so that it is up. Less chance of dropping it (and possibly losing it!
) in the engine bay that way. The pulley may contact the intake tube for the Vortech when you try to remove it. If so, you should be able to put pressure on the intake tube to give you enough room to wiggle out the cogged pulley.Step 5: Loosen Jack Shaft mount. Once the cogged pulley has been removed, you should be able to see 4 Allen Head bolts run from the back of the pulley mount that run into the mounting bracket. These are 1/4" Allens and are in tight. You will need to use a heavy duty Allen wrench to remove them. Most likely, you will need some extra leverage to break them loose. I sleeved a hydraulic jack handle over my Allen to turn them.
Step 6: Remove serpentine pulley. Once the Allen bolts are out, you should be able to slide the entire assembly back (toward the firewall) enough to remove the serpentine pulley. BE CAREFUL! Like the cogged pulley, this pulley has a key. Again, try to position the key at the top so there is less danger of it falling out when you remove the pulley.
At this point, you are done disassembling. To put the new pulley back on. Start at Step 6 and work in reverse.
Good Luck!
Sorry, no pics... since I put the 3.33 back on, I figured I'd get pictures when I do this again in the future.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Baltimore,MD
Thanks McDuck!
I actually thought about removing the cogged pulley last night but it was getting late. I'll give it a try over the weekend. Thanks Again!
Steve
I actually thought about removing the cogged pulley last night but it was getting late. I'll give it a try over the weekend. Thanks Again!
Steve
Originally posted by mcduck
zbicklin...
Here's the easy way (sorry, Boog... I just don't see the mounting bolts solution and prying as the best way... just my .02)
Okay, I don't remember all the exact bolt sizes for particular bolts, but here's what you'll need to the best of my recollection..
14mm socket or wrench
12mm socket
15mm socket or wrench (2)
1/4" Allen wrench (this should be a strong, heavy-duty, long arm Allen. You can pick one up at Sears for a couple of bucks)
Step 1: Release serpentine belt tension. To do this, you must first loosen the 14mm nut on the tensioner pulley. Next, use a 12mm socket to release the tension. Believe it or not, you can do this from the top of the engine if you are limber. Reach down between the timing chain cover and radiator. You should be able to locate the tensioner bolt and get a socket wrench on it. Remove the serpentine belt
Step 2: Remove cogged belt. This is one of those I can't remember. I think it is 14 or 15mm. Anyway, loosen the guide pulley and remove the belt.
Step 3: Loosen Jack Shaft bolts. Another I can't remember, I think it is 15mm... and you will need two tools. One for the bolt on the front of the jack shaft and one for the bolt on the back. If you have trouble breaking both free at the same time, first take the back bolt off (one pointed toward the firewall). The front one can then be remove by putting channel locks or something similar on the pulley to keep it from spinning as you remove the front bolt
Step 4: Remove cogged pulley. With the jack shaft bolts off, remove the rear pulley fromthe jack shaft. BE CAREFUL! There is key for the shaft and pulley. I'd recommend spotting that key and turning the pulley so that it is up. Less chance of dropping it (and possibly losing it!) in the engine bay that way. The pulley may contact the intake tube for the Vortech when you try to remove it. If so, you should be able to put pressure on the intake tube to give you enough room to wiggle out the cogged pulley.
Step 5: Loosen Jack Shaft mount. Once the cogged pulley has been removed, you should be able to see 4 Allen Head bolts run from the back of the pulley mount that run into the mounting bracket. These are 1/4" Allens and are in tight. You will need to use a heavy duty Allen wrench to remove them. Most likely, you will need some extra leverage to break them loose. I sleeved a hydraulic jack handle over my Allen to turn them.
Step 6: Remove serpentine pulley. Once the Allen bolts are out, you should be able to slide the entire assembly back (toward the firewall) enough to remove the serpentine pulley. BE CAREFUL! Like the cogged pulley, this pulley has a key. Again, try to position the key at the top so there is less danger of it falling out when you remove the pulley.
At this point, you are done disassembling. To put the new pulley back on. Start at Step 6 and work in reverse.
Good Luck!
Sorry, no pics... since I put the 3.33 back on, I figured I'd get pictures when I do this again in the future.
zbicklin...
Here's the easy way (sorry, Boog... I just don't see the mounting bolts solution and prying as the best way... just my .02)
Okay, I don't remember all the exact bolt sizes for particular bolts, but here's what you'll need to the best of my recollection..
14mm socket or wrench
12mm socket
15mm socket or wrench (2)
1/4" Allen wrench (this should be a strong, heavy-duty, long arm Allen. You can pick one up at Sears for a couple of bucks)
Step 1: Release serpentine belt tension. To do this, you must first loosen the 14mm nut on the tensioner pulley. Next, use a 12mm socket to release the tension. Believe it or not, you can do this from the top of the engine if you are limber. Reach down between the timing chain cover and radiator. You should be able to locate the tensioner bolt and get a socket wrench on it. Remove the serpentine belt
Step 2: Remove cogged belt. This is one of those I can't remember. I think it is 14 or 15mm. Anyway, loosen the guide pulley and remove the belt.
Step 3: Loosen Jack Shaft bolts. Another I can't remember, I think it is 15mm... and you will need two tools. One for the bolt on the front of the jack shaft and one for the bolt on the back. If you have trouble breaking both free at the same time, first take the back bolt off (one pointed toward the firewall). The front one can then be remove by putting channel locks or something similar on the pulley to keep it from spinning as you remove the front bolt
Step 4: Remove cogged pulley. With the jack shaft bolts off, remove the rear pulley fromthe jack shaft. BE CAREFUL! There is key for the shaft and pulley. I'd recommend spotting that key and turning the pulley so that it is up. Less chance of dropping it (and possibly losing it!
) in the engine bay that way. The pulley may contact the intake tube for the Vortech when you try to remove it. If so, you should be able to put pressure on the intake tube to give you enough room to wiggle out the cogged pulley.Step 5: Loosen Jack Shaft mount. Once the cogged pulley has been removed, you should be able to see 4 Allen Head bolts run from the back of the pulley mount that run into the mounting bracket. These are 1/4" Allens and are in tight. You will need to use a heavy duty Allen wrench to remove them. Most likely, you will need some extra leverage to break them loose. I sleeved a hydraulic jack handle over my Allen to turn them.
Step 6: Remove serpentine pulley. Once the Allen bolts are out, you should be able to slide the entire assembly back (toward the firewall) enough to remove the serpentine pulley. BE CAREFUL! Like the cogged pulley, this pulley has a key. Again, try to position the key at the top so there is less danger of it falling out when you remove the pulley.
At this point, you are done disassembling. To put the new pulley back on. Start at Step 6 and work in reverse.
Good Luck!
Sorry, no pics... since I put the 3.33 back on, I figured I'd get pictures when I do this again in the future.
Hey no problem Mcduck . It was just the easiest way for me . And Im sure its not the right way to do it . I only needed about a 1/4 inch . The new block is being put back together today and next week . Im getting closer to driving her again . Gonna be a while till I can get into boost , as I have to break it in first .
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