jeff: thats awesome man... and the car looks great.

When you go to the dynojet make sure they align center your car before tightening the straps... this is done by putting in only wheel chocks and then spinning the rollers with you foot and the RWD car will align itself on the rollers. This is to give the correct rolling resistence from your tires... if the car is not aligned then numbers will read lower due to poor alignment absorbing power.

Also if it is very cold where you are then make sure the dyno is up to temp. Coming from a dynojet owner I can tell you that it makes a huge difference... I never get consistent results unless the dyno is up to temp... this is due to the levels of friction in the bearings changing based on temp. On a cold day if I dont let them warm up I will usually gain HP for the first 4 runs as they get warm.... to get them warm you can simply let the car sit on the dyno with the cruise control for a couple min.. thats what I usually do anyway.

Last but not least, the turbocharged 350z suffers from heat soak... If the dyno shop gives you the time I recommend 5-10 minutes of engine off before each pass (of course after some idle cool down for the turbos sake) If you have a low temp thermostat than its not quite as important.

-Charles

 

Thanks for the tips Charles. My car has never been on a dynojet before, any tips on good tie down spots? The guy I talked to said he had only done one other Z and that was almost 2 years ago.

Jeff

 

in the front use the stock tow hook that screws in

in the rear we just grab the lower control arms.

 

Dynojet as promised.

Sorry, the image must have been a little big. I'll post a URL.

Patience.

 

Here it is.

 

Nice 421 whp stock base Map That's great... The numbers come up quick and strong! 200whp @ 3000k!

Do you know how cold it was in the room when it was pulled?

 

Temp at the intake was measured at about 50F.
Barometric Pressure was 29.96.

It sure felt colder with the fan going though.

 

Jesus, awsome power man

 

Looks like the numbers are fairly comparable between dynapak and dynojet. The AFR seems different however. On the dynojet wideband you seem to be running really rich but on the dynapak your pretty close to what the kit should do. A little tuning and your going to make some really serious power, not that you aren't

Tuan

 

the difference in how rich the car shows on the dynojet could just be related to the whole piggy back factor... even tho the APS tune is going to be quality, the stock ECU's changes are very dramatic... especially since most piggy backs are tuned by a % of stock duty cycle, therefore multiplying the effect of any adjustment the stock ECU makes. Just an idea anyway.

If you got the A/F up in the 11's you would probably gain 10-15hp... one thing i noticed was that my Z responded to timing much more than A/F.

Thank you for posting a dynojet graph, we finally are able to compare it directly to greddy cars. We are seeing that the difference is that the APS kit includes enough properly engineered and tuned engine management support to run that type of HP. Greddy cars will make the same HP at that psi, however they have to spend more money and engineer a fuel solution to get there... something that most consumers nor shops are qualified to do with this car... resulting in many blown engines.

From experience with Garret GT turbos on other vehicles, I am not surprised to see that even at similar sizing, they do not get to full boost any faster... but they do start producing boost faster... the greddy kit takes some time and then comes on harder, where the APS kit is showing better initial turbo response... significantly... actually by around 75ftlb of torque greater at 2500rpm.

This will improve the ballzy feel of the car a lot... being that those RPMs are not used for racing... and its not gonna put it ahead of the greddy car down the dragstrip... but its gonna feel very very nice... and I must say that my greddy car feels insanly nice compared to other imports, with your turbos responding so much faster it must feel outright nuts in the throttle response and traction is probably harder to come by.

We can see that once full boost is achieved... the powerband is nearly identical to greddy cars at the same HP levels. Even where the powerband starts to fall back down... it appears that these turbos might be extremely closely sized... the true test of which pair will have the highest output will have to come later when some of the built motor guys are pushing the limits. Of course, as a greddy owner... I am ruiting (sp?) for the home team... I would hope for some type of compensation for my slower boost response time only time will tell.

Forget the parts comparison, marketing comparison, hype comparison, alternate dyno comparison, etc etc... THIS is the real comparison. Here you are showing what people can expect from an APS car versus a greddy car. Finally... an APS install that gets my attention... even before I was a dynojet owner I never cared to see alternate dyno graphs just cause it couldnt give me a definate comparison... your car is showing the dynapack to read close to the dynojet... but i have seen plenty of other cars that showed otherwise... some by large ammounts.

Your contribution to the community is highly appreciated... at least by myself.

 

I'm glad to assist.

The car is a blast to drive now, not that it wasn't before, but this addition takes it to a new level. I'll miss driving it for the next 3-4 months since it will be going into hibernation for the rest of the winter this weekend. The good news is that when she wakes up she'll have a nice new APS TD exhaust, big brakes, and a full tune.


Jeff

 

Thanks Jeff,
I've been looking at this thread for a while...
Sharif asked for Dyno-Jet and you delivered.. Hey GQ_626 Wot?

The Dyno-Jet backs up the Dyna-Pac number's well... I think for this car Either Dyno - is right in line with what we would want to compare with. If a Dyna-Pac or Dyno-Jet is available, Either brand should be trusted.

Note: On the Dyno-Jet the AFR went off the chart... I guess the probe was not calibrated as the Temperature 50 degrees F and while getting heat from the run went out of calibration.. Other wise fuel would be pouring out the exhaust.. Joking of course...

Cheers and thanks again Jeff for making that extra Dyno available..

Amy -

 

Charles

I couln't agree with you more... All APS installs seem like they will have excellent out of the box performance... With all the R&D done! Were as for the Greedy kit is really made for an experienced professional tuner such as CJ Motorsports, Jotech etc.... But those extras to acheive the same HP goal adds up real quick...

Jeff

Thanks again...

 

Glad to assist the community.

I was thinking about the A/F readings and one difference between the dynpac and dynojet was that on the dynojet the A/F probe was stuffed into the exhaust pipe. On the dynopac, the sensor was in a bung I had welded into the cat pipe. Not sure if this would make that much of a difference, any comments would be appreciated.

Jeff

 

Not to hijack the thread but what is real street price for the APS kits? And I know this has been answered a dozen (or more) times already, but what engine mgmt parts are coming with the APS that aren't in the Greddy?

ahm

 

$7,495.00