Hey Guys,

I have been interested in forced induction on my Z for quite some time but have been hesitant as I am seeing many people have problems with it. What I want to know is what can I do to make my engine be able to withstand the abuse of FI? I was planning on going with a Vortech Supercharger or a Power Enterprise Turbo system and keeping it around stock boost. Here is my list of what I think I should need to be able to flog my car daily:

Forged Pistons
Forged Rods
Connecting Rod Bolts (Is NISMO sufficient?)
Titanium Valve Springs

Any suggestions?

 

Depending on your final hp and torque goals...here are a few more items to add to your shopping list:

The rods you order will probably come with ARP rod bolts

ARP Main/head studs

Fuels system upgraded, bigger injectors, fuel return sys, bigger fuel
pump Walbro 255

Main/rod bearings

Clutch and Flywheel upgrade

Gasket kit (includes heads and manifolds,....)

Depending on the system, engine management system

NGK 1 step colder spark plugs

Gauges, boost, afr, oil press, fuel press, egt

Boost controller/turbo timer...if you go TT

Ceramic coating on the pistons

Get your block blue printed/balance

Dont port/polish the heads

Some guys are going with different valve setups too, such as Ferrea valves

Oh yeah, set aside about 10k for all of the above plus labor. Not to even mention purchasing the FI system. Overall, it will be close to 15-20k depending on the FI sys you go with.

A lot of the forged internal stuff could take up to two months to actually recieve it depending upon the brand you go with.

 

true

 

you better not keep it at stock boost if you are going through all of the effort of building the engine with forged internals!
you should be able to safely run at least 15psi if you do it right...going deep basically described what he and myself are in the middle of right now- building our motors to aim for 550rwhp uncorrected, actual numbers

 

I just want it to be safe for daily driving. I keep hearing all these horror stories about snapped rods and blown motors. If I plan I keeping around stock boost what should I beef up to make it 100% safe? Just rods and bearings maybe pistons?

 

When you start building your motor and you do a mental estimation, you tell yourself "Yeah, about 3k in parts and 3k in labor, that outta do it". But, when you start the build up, next thing you know you're knocking on 10k after adding this and that. Most of which you really need, otherwise it means trouble down the road. I really believe this will be worth it in the end, but its a hell of road trying to get there. I have been the type of guy that buys a new car every two years or so. Thats pretty wasteful. But, with this project Z car that it has now become, I will definately keep her for a long time. So, just think of all the money Im saving by not taking it in the shorts as a trade in.

 

Install APS TT Kit with basis Boost (6.5 ~7.5 psi)
and Forged 9.5 CR CP Piston I think you can Run every day
with out any problem >>>>>>>>

 

Give SPGracing a call. They have a pretty comprehensive list of what you need to build an engine. They also offer built engine packages to suit your budget. From what I can tell from the list you have above your looking at around 4g's for the engine plus your core and labour.
I wish I had the coin...

 

The weakest link on the VQ-35DE are the connecting rods and I can personally attest to that fact. You can't just replace the pistons and say its all good.

 

speed form meant SGP Racing* not SPG Racing, I believe.



I personally think you are going to have to be more specific, saying you want a 'daily driver' is pretty general, that's a wide range of hp and tq numbers to determine what you want.

My plan is to have a 450-550rwhp and rwtq daily driver but have the potential to boost up to 650rwhp and rwtq when need be. So an hp and tq goal you want to achieve can help us determine what could be good for you.


Below is a comparison of Pauter forged rods and stock rods...the bottom are the Pauter rods and top are the stock rods. I am pretty sure the bottom pistons are Arias. And of course, top piston is stock.

 

Time will tell how reliable the APS TT kit is on the stock block with the stock tune. There is no reason why you would need more then 420rwhp for a daily driver. There is only so much HP that is 'streetable'

You need to come up with a HP number in order to determine what you need to spend. for 400rwhp you can get away with just buying the TT kit and a clutch ($10,000). Any more HP than that you need to double that number to do it properly.

 

I am planning 400rwhp to 450 rwhp with the possibility in the future to run it to 500rwhp. 500rwhp is my absolute limit on this car. Those pauter rods look very beefy, are there any other brands you would recommend? Also, I plan on doing an engine build for FI then breaking in the built motor without a turbo... Then install turbo after the break in period. Is that a good idea? Finally, here is what I think I will need:

Rods
Pistons
Rod Bearings
Valves and Valvesprings
MAYBE a mild cam

My theory is only the stuff doing all the movement needs beefing up for my target hp goal. What do you guys think?

 

Sorry for the double post but I had another question:

What is a good "streetable" clutch/pressure plate/flywheel assembly?
Basically, something that I can slip a little not something that is either 100% engaged or 100% disengaged.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Nissan350ZTT
[B]speed form meant SGP Racing* not SPG Racing, I believe.

Yes...SGP Racing. sorry...

 

Well Pauter is great, but I plan on using Crower rods. Pistons i'm not sure about yet, i'm still considering the brands and prices. I don't believe you will be able to run the internals for the turbo while n/a, I don't think 9.0:1 or lower CR internals are going to work for N/A, so I would just break them in with the turbo. Just buy whatever you can when you can, and then have it all installed at once and save on installation costs and 350Z down time. Might want to check and see if there is a group buy when you get ready to buy your stuff.

My plan -
Pistons (still considering brands and price): XT, Arias, SGP Racing, or custom JE's.
Rods: Crower.
Cams: Tomei 264's.
Valves, valve retainers, valve springs: Custom Ferrea.
Sleeves: Darton
Radiator: Blitz
Head and Main Studs: SGP Racing/ARP
Fuel: Altered Atmosphere Return-fuel system
NGK Iridium 1-Step Colder Spark Plugs
Nismo Low-Temperature Thermostat Kit


I'll determine later what else needs to be upgraded.


Streetable Clutches - ACT street disc, Clutchmasters FX200 or 300, Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin-Plate (comes with Exedy flywheel), Nismo, O.S. Giken Dual-Disc, JWT, i'm sure there is probably others I didn't list.

Flywheel - JUN, JWT, RPS, Nismo, Stillen, Unorthodox Racing.

My plan for clutch: Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin-Plate Clutch and Flywheel, why?, it's streetable and holds a tremendous amount of power.



Anyway, hope this helps and maybe by listing what I plan on doing it can help you in your desicion making.

--Brandon

 

brandon...here's my list (maybe this will help you)
Arias Pistons
Pauter Rods
AAM Fuel System
ARP Main & Head Studs
ARP Main & Head Studs
NGK 1 step colder plugs
RC 550cc injectors
ATS Clutch & Flywheel
Wastegate Springs -TIAL .8bar 38mm
Overhaul Gasket Set from nissan
Oil Pump from nissan
Clutch Release Bearing

ARP Main & Head Studs

Main & Rod Bearings
Block -used (mine has a hole in it)

 

Just curious, how much is the overhaul gasket set from Nissan? ...it was $530 for my old car....

 

183 at Performance Nissan


http://www.performancenissanparts.co...oducts_id=2065

 

$190
go to www.nissanpartsdistributor.com

 

the new oil pump was cause i blew my old motor..and am assuming there is garbage in the old oil pump...dont want to take any chances.