I'm looking for the simplest Wideband AF install after recently having the Voretech kit installed.

Basically I would rather not have to weld a bung (pre-cat) as this does seem like a PITA.

If I choose the Zeitronix setup I believe I can replace a factory O2 sensor and use the simulated output from the Zeitronix to tap into the ECU and thus eliminating the need for an extra bung. Can anyone confirm this? Anyone running the Zeitronix like this?

Are there any other Wideband AF's out there that have a similar output to 'fake' the ECU?

TIA,

Paul

 

How did you like the SC after install without tuning? I have kit ready to install but currently out at sea. I also have AEM W/B so I don't konw about the Zeitronix.

 

It actually has been tuned.
I had it installed by Vortech (thanks to Import Tuner) they did a dyno run and figured it was detonating around 6000+rpm.
So they changed the FMU washer and pulled some timing at the top end (using the R4).
Runs good, I just a little wary with all the folks around here blowing up.....
Definitely order the BOV filter. The noise in rediculous without it.
I'm changing to colder plugs a weekend to be on the safe side.

 

Anyone ??

 

Take you car to the local muffler shop and get a bung welded in , it's cheap and the most accurate. Ideally pre CAT, but post CAT is better than nothing. The simulated output method can generate unwanted codes and places a less than OEM reliablity into the
normally closed loop system. It's better to leave the OEM O2 system intact and add the WB in parrallel . IMO.

 

I second this recommendation.

The OEM ECU depends on the narrowband oxygen sensor response to tune A/F for partial-throttle (closed-loop) operation. You don't really want to leave this up to the simulated narrowband output on a WBO2 setup. Spend the $50 and have a muffler shop weld in the bung.

 

OK guys, thanks.

Looks like I'll go with the welded bung after all.

Did you guys have it welded in the cat assembly pre-cat. Or installed in the manifold?

Does the Cat have to be removed for this or can it be done without?
I've heard the Cat shield has to be trimmed to install the bung. True??

Has any pics of this installed??

Thanks again.

 

I use Crawford CATs and welded a bung in front of both left and right. You can do this with anyones HF CATS. The OEM CATS have very little area to weld in a bung. Also I use a thermal isolator to keep the o2 sensor cooler and thus extending it's operational life. I use this part:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/x...cat=250&page=1

I run the WB O2 sendor in one bung and a reducer for EGT in the
second. The 2 bung approach allows fro me to tune and leve my in car telmetry system intact and the dyno sniffer can be temporarily placed in the second bung fro dyno tunig. It allows
be to check and sanity of my on-board system with the dyno system, Plus allows EGT when not on the the dyno.

 

Does it matter how far down the exhaust you weld the bung if you have test pipes? Mine was welded on the y-pipe.

Also, once it has been welded in place how easy is it to relocate? I am referring to the wiring not a new bung. If the wire does not reach the test pipe from its current location can I just cut the wires and extend them with basic wire?

 

Have it welded in the top of the drivers side cat.

 

I don't have cats so the gases are not being filtered. I can't seem to get a clear anwswer. It is alway "weld it pre-cat." Well, I don't have cats.

 

It is pretty important to have it installed as close to the manifold or header as possible.. And the reason I stated to installit on the left bank, is that the left side is known to run leaner, and is better to monitor that side...

 

Thanks, I get it know, but do you mean driver or passenger side. Left from the front bumper or rear bumper?

 

No prob, just trying to help where I can.. The drivers side is always considered the left side...