Which of the available F/I kits, if any, have a reliable/safe timing adjustment solution? Reguardless of the kit that I decide on, should I add a J&S safeguard and a piggyback fuel computer as an added "safety net"? I've been leaning towards the Turbonetics kit and I dont really trust the Technosquare reflash considering the problems with reflashing that other members are describing. Keep in ming that this car ('04 Z) is my daily driver.

 

Well you can trust it. My car is also an 04 and Turbonetics has been using my ECU as the guinea pig to test their 04 flash for their kit. Tadashi should be back from Japan tomorrow with some updated software and hardware to make the 04 ECU flash as reliable as the 03. Of course if you really wanted to you could see if they would sell you the kit sans ECU flash and use your own tuning solution.

 

Vortech does

 

I'm probably just being paranoid, but the fact that the Z's PCM wasnt designed to manage a F/I engine (no MAP sensor) leads me to believe that there may be timing and fuel enrichment problems.

 

At higher boost levels, once the OEM MAF is saturated you must either :

a) add a piggyback which understands MAP or MAP+MAF.
This is the most typical approach.

b) Increase the size of the MAF and re-cal the OEM ECU.
This is the approach that Gurden attempted.

c) Ditch the OEM ECU for a full stand-alone.
The most costly and generaly the tack for off-road only cars.

If you don't do one of these all th eOEM ECU can do above the MAF saturation pont is to extrapolate TPS and RPM, not very accurate, and needs ot be tuned rather rich to be safe.

 

At what boost level will the OEM MAF saturate? I plan on running 7psi at most.

 

Kits with timing control coming standard WITH the kit

Vortech,stillen,APS,

Kits not coming with timing control standard WITH the kit

Greddy, ATI, Ultimate racing

Missing any??

 

The Greddy clamps the MAF at just under 5.0V to keep the ecu from freaking out. And that's at the stock boost of 5.5-6 lbs.

 

SSR/SFR TT kit doesn't come with timing control but, you can order a split second box to controll the timing if you like.

 

Speaking of the SSR kit, I wish they would answer my question.

 

Yes, and to clarify, the "clamp" is ot keep the ECU from switinh into "limp mode". However; it can do nothing to extend the dynamic range of the OEM MAF.

A novel approach whic hasn't been done on the VQ yet, is to use "two" OEM MAFs , one per Turbo outlet (parrallel) before the FMIC on a TT setup, then a simple "sum/ 2" circuit would then feed the OEM ECU with a signal which represent 1/2 slope of OEM.

 

Something I also have not seen which is actually a pretty well used solution in the SR20DET world is to use the MAF from a Cobra Mustang which can handle much more then the SR MAF. Of course this required some adjustments to the ECU from JWT but it is a well documented and functional solution. Not sure if this could be done on the Z.

 

The main issue with this type of approach can be if the inlet ducting is not adequately increase in size (ie tapered to and from the enlarged MAF), eddy current effects can screw with MAF accuracy. It is a viable approach , just duct geometry needs to be carefully considered.

For example WRT the APS system , gined the way they spliede the MAF sensor into the inlet ducting, it woudl be very slick to splice two sensors , via the same technique pre FMIC. Since we're talkin MAF here pre vs. post FMIC doesnt really matter.

Of course the dual MAF technique is not conducive to the ST or SC setups.

 

Actually I believe they made their own housing heres a link

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=274

 

Yep , not sure it they are useing this one for the "soon to be released" TT kit , I doubt so since they have capped bhp ~400.

APS on the other had actually welded the sensor bracket into ther inlet pipe., very slick , no hose joints.

 

I agree I do not believe JWT is using this on their kit. Although it would be a good alternative to clamping the MAF voltage. Plus when JWT programs an ECU they do something nice work. I know Technosquare reigns supreme so far for the Z/G in this arena I think when JWT gets into it they are going to surprise a lot of people. I've seen JWT do an ECU for a B14 Sentra running upwards of 17 PSI with water injection and they even added a switch so the owner could change it over to run 12 PSI without water injection by just moving a switch...JWT does some very nice ECU work and it would be nice to see their kit in action...

 

If JWT released their kit with the 700BB rather than the lil 530BBs, I would've been interested. But their defualt snails are jsut to smal fro a forged LB, higher output build. THer kit will be a good out of the box (specifically G35) on OEM internals though.

 

I absolutely agree however not many people are going to have a fully built LB when they order their kit so of course they need to cater to the masses. Have you contact them to see if they would be willing to swap out 550s for 700s for your specific kit. I know Turobnetics has said they are more then willing to include a larger turbo for those that want them when they order their kits. I know brad has mentioned using a larger compressor wheel with the 60-1 are even using a 62-1 for those who plan to make HUGE numbers and have the bottom end to do it.

 

I have looked into it , unfortuanely no one can confirm whether the 700BB snail will still clear the chassis etc given the default mounting locations. I decided to go with APS , since the snails are a good size and the kit is a little more complete IMO.

Sorry didn't mean to take this thread out into never never land.

 

Ahh ic...Wait arent the APS turobs GT28s?