Congradulations. Some big numbers. Also mr2fasterthanyo pm me im in woodstock a lot would like to check out your ride.

 

Peter is right.

Nissan engineers have databased years and years of research in their fuel injection and ignition tuning. No one knows how to tune a car better than the cars manufacturer. Just because they arent tuned for the most power stock.. doesnt mean they arent doing it right... they give it to you exactly how they want it.

It can take a very long time to build a perfect map for a standalone EMS. When all conditions are the same as when you tuned, you can have a ROCK SOLID consistent tune with a standalone... however as temperatures changes and what not.. your correction maps will not be perfect. Depending on the quality of the startup map you use, and how much you change from there you can be really far off.

This doesnt always present a problem if your tuning for conservative anyway... however its not exactly what I would call "Set it and forget it".

See... being the HKS Prodealer... if its really hot or cold out and my car is acting different... I can easily pull over with my laptop and see what correction maps are kicking in and I can make the adjustment on the spot and be done with it. Be the customer and not the Prodealer... all you can do is stare at your gauges and say "YUP, shes running a little rich today"....

if you have a local Prodealer... no big deal... stop by for a little correction tuning, if your base maps are good then it shouldnt take much tinkering...

However I wouldnt say that the piggyback is so solid either... yes its correction maps are PERFECT for your car.... STOCK... but we have all changed so much that the effects of the fuel trim corrections can potentially get exagerated causing the car to run a little leaner/richer under different extremes... but unless you get lucky first time out, it should be more solid then your standalone corrections.

The FCON does let you set a closed loop cycle with the wideband o2 tho... and that will somewhat self correct and learn at all times.

The MAP based piggyback tuning with 1:1 regulator setup is IMHO the best solution for those looking for 400-500rwhp... APS really does give you all you need to get there.... a little bit of piggyback tuning and you should be allll set.

 

phunk:
i was just looking through your pics of your car..first off- very nice!

wondering about the insulation wrapped around the fuel lines (so they appear) tied on with plastic ties...i take it this is ok?

also, what wheel/tires size/ offset do you have?

lastly, what test pipes are you using?

Thanks man, your setup is awesome!

 

Very nice numbers!

 

Ill send you a PM... too off-topic for Tuan's thread.

 

Another way to see they are equal is to find approximately 5252rpm on the x-axis. Now look up to where the HP and TQ line cut the 5252 rpm mark. While the two lines do not cross, you can follow that point on each line to their respective scales and see both measure right around 455-460 at 5252rpm

I'm very impressed by the numbers attainable with the APS. May have to look at getting a used 350Z for a TT buildup now.

 

seems like the APS is really giving the greddy a run for the money.

 

We about a block west of Gerald Subaru on Ogden.
Feel free to stop by anytime. If weather permits we can take the Z for a nice spin.

Tuan

 

WOW great job Tuan!

Charles and Tuan do you think the changes to the 05 track engine will improve the limits of FI? Sorry a little off subject.

 

No standalone can ever account for the sweeping changes in temperature or humidity one encounters - it can do a reasonably good job, but if the car is used year round, you'll become good friend's with your tuner over the course of a year (assuming you live in a climate with "seasons")

Good numbers man...hopefully I'll be setting some NA records soon as my own F Con is tuned

 

Tuning is critical in any high performance application..granted.
The laws of physics do take place though on stress levels of internal components that were built to certain tolerences by the manufacturer.
You are more then pushing the envelope but we are all grateful of you to be the test mule. I for one would like to see what breaks first, my guess is a main bearing assuming your a/f is correct. If the tune is off I'll go with ringland/piston.
Don't get me wrong, I wish your motor to last 100K miles, I just know at the psi your running, f/i and the compression ratio of the stock motor, it won't last regardless of the tune............Tripp

 

Yesterday. Saw ur car outside but no one was in the shop.
Oh! and how 'bout getting some "GREAT BALSY! numbers! on a certain blue raggedy Duece in your shops backyard.

I godda have a car to keep up with yours now dont I?

 

I guess to prove your statement correct, let's take the torque peak of 462.4 @ 4900rpm according to the dyno. The corresponding HP # @ 4900rpm looks to be about 430 whp. So...

462.4 x 4900= 2265760/5250= 431.6 HP

Both tq and HP graphs are accurate but have to fit on the same sheet. I guess I'm beating a dead horse, but I hope this clears up the dyno graph HP vs. TQ mystery.

 

Tuan

On the left hand side of the graph it says "Tq Flywheel"... Are these numbers reflecting Flywheel number or RWHP ? Please Explain

 

On dynapacks "flywheel" actually means to the hubs. The dynapack software doesn't support calculation of actual engine "flywheel" power.

 

More importantly, this equation is showing there is a relation between torque and horspower, namely rpm and the constant 5250.

Check this out, plug in any amount of power and the same amount of torque, then use 5250 as the rpm.

 

The connecting rods have proven to be the weak link in the vq platform...although I'm sure the other components like the main bearing or the piston/rings could fail as well...but it seems like most blow up from a broken rod

TODD

 

Yes Todd your correct, I failed to mention rods with bearing (seen both from someones back yard handy work).I see You have been doing your home work............
How's the motor coming along? Come dyno when it's broken in, love to see how much hp/tq it will make.

 

After almost two months of downtime, the project is coming to a very near completed end. My car should be up and running by next friday... i'll bring it by for you to check out when its broken in and running strong...i'm planning on an initial dyno tune of about 450rwhp...stick with that for a month or two (await further R&D) ..then re-tune to around 550-600rwhp...
we'll see

TODD

 

Bet you spent some money. Unless you have changed lower end you engine will definately blow, thats a fact. That statement came from a master mechanic at Nissan USA