zcar03

iTrader: (7)

I need to get a ballpark of what I will need. Model numbers and brands are great. I want the most HP possible within a reasonable price range (3k for parts). I know the cam must match teh blower or Ill lose HP. So far I know I need this:
Im thinking about stroking the motor.

NEED:
Stroker Crank??
8.5:1 forged pistons
forged rods
blower cam (no clue what model or specs)
intake
injectors (How are the RC550??? Need models)

Have:
procharger
borla headers
helix test pipes
J&S Safeguard
2 step colder NGK plugs

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Stoker kit will be $8000 just for the kit, so that puts it out of your set budget.

Tell us what you intended power goals.

Regardless, if you are planning to run more than 400whp or so, you should at a minimum get forged rods and pistons, and some main and head studs. Many of us went with Pauter rods and Arias pistons for our build ups. For SC's, I would recommend a CR of roughly 9.0:1 to 9.5:1 depending on your power goals.

From there..the sky is the limit.

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Off the topic I love your bodykit!!My car attached

Anyway, I want as much HP as possible and Id like to get that by just increasing the boost of my procharger to as high as possible. The procharger isnt installed yet.

How much am I looking to spend if I just do the pistons and rods? Whats a typical labor cost. I can pull the motor and take it to the shop. I know my stuff but have never done and piston or rod work.

If I go to 8.5:1 pistons and get forged rods will that allow me to get alot of boost. I know there will be drivetrain factors (tranny and rear end) with high boost possibly. Whats the most power the tranny and rear will withold without changing it.

Isit feasible to get rods,pistons,and cam for 3k... I am willing to buy these used. Thanks MIKE

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Ok So if I run the 9lb pulley:

Will I need larger injectors?? WHat size?...keep in mind I will change the pistons,cam,do head work,and rods in the future and only want to buy the injectors ONCE.

I will also run a 75 HP nitrous shot

Are the 2 step colder NGK iridium plugs ok or do I need one step?

I am installing the fuel pump and management system included with the procharger and the J & S Safeguard for timing. THANKS!!

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't use the fuel management that comes with the ATI kit. Best suggestion is to get your self phunk or AAMs full fuel solution and use either 380 CC or 440 CC injectors and get the ATI flash from Technosquare.

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

What exactly is the flash from technosquare. Do I send in my cpu or do you buy one from technosquare. Does it replace the management system that comes with the kit. Thanks Im not familiar with it.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

The reflash means you send your ECU to them they program it to control the 380 CC injectors and send it back. Of course if you are going to do internals and spend that much you might as well get a stand alone (ie: HKS Fcon V-Pro) and tune it to your hearts desire.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Can I ask why you are getting a Pro Charger?? IMHO, there are several better F/I options out there...for similar costs.
And if you really intend to push well over 500whp, you may find yourself with limited tuning and power options with an SC.

Without getting into a debate over SC vs. TT vs. Single T...spend some time doing research..there are bunch of active threads on this that may help you.


Sharif

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Couldnt pass up the charger for 2800shipped.

So the stand alone system is something I can tweak. Whats the cost?

Sins4u33

iTrader: (4)

maybe you should think about a piggy back system such as the greddy emanage, thats what i am running with the RPM signal adapter. Car runs great. I am also running the AAM Fuel Return System. I am making 1:1 fuel pressure and im making 360 whp. on a 7lb pulley. Imagine what i could make with a 9lb pulley. i know people who are running the vortech with a 9lb pulley and only pushing around 390. or even 405 with cams. I dont see why people rag on the ATI Procharger. It has more capability that most other superchargers. It can run up to a 24lb pulley. I know though the ATI procharger was ragged on for the timming issue. But its all been taken care of. the superchargers out right now compare very considerably. From the Vortech, ATI, HKS, and Stillen. It all depends on how much money you are willing to dish out and which name brand you like more. I wouldn't suggest stroking it..the car will become very undrivable...my car is a daily driver and i can barely make it out the drive way when its wet i would only suggest redoing the internals look at what gq has for his engine rebuild and think about looking into purchasing those parts. I would suggest though 8.5:1 forged pistons...

Ben Y
AAM

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

ZCar03 What hood is that on your car? Do you have any other pics of it. I really like it.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Wow..great price on the procharger.

First order of business is to completely ditch the fuel management system that things comes from. You saved a lot of money on the charger itself, so the fuel and ems setup is something you dont wanna skimp on.

eManage is certainly the best of the piggybacks out there...it has drivers for injectors and coils, and allows quite a bit of tunability. You can even set it up to be pressure based.

For forged internals, shoot me a PM. There a bunch of us doing Pauter Rods and Arias forged pistons. I am in the process of building up my bottom end right now.

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

What does the emanage system cost? What does it consist of and will I still use the J&S for timing issues or does the emanage take car of timing too?

Are the 2 step colder plugs Im using ok (NGK Iridium)?

I am almost done with the install now and am putting on the intercooler tomorrow.

Whats the best way to measure the air fuel. Can I hook a digital voltmeter up to the oxygen sensor. I need 12:1 according to procharger. I am going to get the charger all hooked up and tune it then save my money and o the internals, emanage etc. to complete the car. Thanks for the help...keep it coming.


Hood is the Kaminara hood. more pics attached

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

You need an AEM or some other wideband. Hookingup a voltmeter wont work. There are several good wideband products out there.

The eManage box is about $300, and you will need the ignition and injector timing harness, as well as the RPM adaptor.

Tuning is done via laptop and the Greddy Support Tool software.

I found that 2 steps colders was too cold for my car. The plugs were carboned and blackedned to hell. I went 1 step colder.

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

So if I get the emanage do I ditch the J and S safeguard?

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Ok guys I finished the install. Have a couple of questions:

How many degrees for the timing should be retarded per 1 psi of boost?? I thought 2 degrees??

Anyone know of any good settings for the efmu that comes with the unit. I need to be able to drive the car until I can get a wide ban O2 sensor. Will it run ok with the out of the box settings?


What should I set the spark plug gap at? I have the 2 step colder NGK plugs iridium plgs?Do they need to be replaced?

Also I have the Ings +1 bumper like GQ_626. Do you have any pics of how you cut the bumper?? That would be great. email gtabadboy@yahoo.com

Im dying to get this car on the street. Also I have the Ings +1 bumper like
THANKS GUYS

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

zcar, the JS is a good safeguard, but I would do basic timing retard with the eManage. Have people sorted out the installation issues with the JS? I thought people were still having some trouble.

In regards to timing, there really is no rule of thumb. 2 psi per psi of boost is not a good rule of thumb...I honestly dont think there are any. YOu need to road or dyno tune that car with a wideband and see how much timing needs to be removed to prevent detonation using the fuel that you are using. Its hit or miss at best. Its a good idea to monitor knock sensor voltage to see if you are actually picking up any detonation.

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Ok I see. Well what should I gap my plugs at?

I am going to buy a gauge to measure the air fuel. So thye say I should go for 12.6 air fuel ratio. Does that sound about right?

Thanks

zcar03

iTrader: (7)

Hows this one look?
air fuel

schweatty

iTrader: (2)

12.6 a/f sounds a little high. somewhere between 11.5 and under 12 is a safe bet. you could run with e-manage, but the guys at Jotech have zero confidence in it and say they cant give them away. the HKS F-CON V Pro is supposed to be the doodoo when it comes to engine management. i have no personal experience with either. this is just what ive heard from people i trust.