Blew my engine again.
it could have still been this kit. sure the actually blow up happened at 2700 rpms, HOWEVER, the actually weakening and breakage could have been caused much earlier during different conditions. Maybe the motor just gave up under normal driving but had some breakage from days or weeks before. Motors still hold together for a few days after problems, sometimes, waiting for the final moment when they can throw their internals through the block and do big damage. I believe that happened to quite a few people with blown engines.
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From: san jose, california
Originally Posted by westpak
Do you have a boos controller or guage? If so did yo uhave any boost spikes?
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Originally Posted by protocav
wait...you blew your motor previously, and rebuilt it with stock internals instead of forged internals. or did you just blow up a forged motor?
Originally Posted by Conceyted
it could have still been this kit. sure the actually blow up happened at 2700 rpms, HOWEVER, the actually weakening and breakage could have been caused much earlier during different conditions. Maybe the motor just gave up under normal driving but had some breakage from days or weeks before. Motors still hold together for a few days after problems, sometimes, waiting for the final moment when they can throw their internals through the block and do big damage. I believe that happened to quite a few people with blown engines.
More than likely the case. But what if this stock CAS wire is a scattered defect that Nissan never caught . And some of the ones with bads ones and have gone FI , and its thoughs that are blowing ?
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Originally Posted by Conceyted
it could have still been this kit. sure the actually blow up happened at 2700 rpms, HOWEVER, the actually weakening and breakage could have been caused much earlier during different conditions. Maybe the motor just gave up under normal driving but had some breakage from days or weeks before. Motors still hold together for a few days after problems, sometimes, waiting for the final moment when they can throw their internals through the block and do big damage. I believe that happened to quite a few people with blown engines.
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From: san jose, california
Originally Posted by NismoGCoupe
was there any timing being pulled?
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Originally Posted by GTNPU Z
Dayum. Sorry to hear that bro. I was at the shop yesterday & I saw your car. Guess I know now why it's there. Hope everything works out for you & good luck.
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From: Jersey
Originally Posted by fernandito7
no timing was pulled. Supposedly greddy says no pullling timing is necesarry at that low boost.
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Originally Posted by NismoGCoupe
I think that could have been part of your problem.....I think with greddy kit if you have return fuel line & a perfect a/f with timing being pulled...you should not have any problems for a long time especially at 5.5psi
Originally Posted by fernandito7
i have the e-01 but the vacuum lines were not hooked up to the wastegates. I intentionally did this so that i wont accidently hit the remote on the e-01 and get a huge boost spike. i would get boost spikes of around 6.3 psi only on cold nights.
Having the wastegates connected would not have been a risk as yo ucouldl have set both high and lo boost setting manually to zero increase and that woudl have kept at stock boost and allows you to use the boost spike control feature where if you hit a certain boost it will reduce it avoiding spikes.
But if the e01 did not register a high boost spike then it sounds like a timing issue, did yo uhave a wideband 02 sensor to monitor the AF ratio, one thing the emanage doesn't seem to like is slow accels at high speed as boost will build but the fuel MAPS don't seem to kick in and it goes lean.
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From: Jersey
dont hold me to this but with a setup like this:
GreddyTT w/intercooler
blow-off valve
fuel return line with 380cc or 440cc injectors
CAS wire
Plenum & Full exhuast
ECU reflashed with a perfect tune for 8psi (ditch the piggyback)
I think you can get 50K+ miles as long as its not being tracked every weekend
GreddyTT w/intercooler
blow-off valve
fuel return line with 380cc or 440cc injectors
CAS wire
Plenum & Full exhuast
ECU reflashed with a perfect tune for 8psi (ditch the piggyback)
I think you can get 50K+ miles as long as its not being tracked every weekend
It just suprises me that a shop like ZCar Garage would let this car out of their sights. They know that the greddy has issues, and its base maps SUCK. I wish you luck getting it all fixed, and agian, I am sorry to hear this happened to you again.
Originally Posted by NismoGCoupe
dont hold me to this but with a setup like this:
GreddyTT w/intercooler
blow-off valve
fuel return line with 380cc or 440cc injectors
CAS wire
Plenum & Full exhuast
ECU reflashed with a perfect tune for 8psi (ditch the piggyback)
I think you can get 50K+ miles as long as its not being tracked every weekend
GreddyTT w/intercooler
blow-off valve
fuel return line with 380cc or 440cc injectors
CAS wire
Plenum & Full exhuast
ECU reflashed with a perfect tune for 8psi (ditch the piggyback)
I think you can get 50K+ miles as long as its not being tracked every weekend
Greddy kit with IC
Greddy BOV
Walbro Fuel Pump (no return line) with stock kit 440 injectors
e01 controller and pressure harness to emanage to run off boost
J&S Safeguard pulling 2 degrees based on RPM and 1/2 degree per pound of boost for boost based retard
Tuned MAPS to 10 PSI
I have the CAS wire but not installed it yet.
As I mentioned I have had the kit on for 12k miles and the car has a total of 32k miles.
The problem had to have happened previous to the motor blowing, gradually wearing then something gave.
If you weren't running the CAS wire, that definately could have been the problem but a combination of things probably added to the failure.
Did you ever check A/F? What type of oil did you use? Just one dyno pull with an OBDII hooked up might have warned you something was happening(like $50).
Another thought: The ECU provides more timing when higher octane is added due to less detonation/knock. You think scattered advanced timing could've been a large contributor?
Well, how much for the kit? I may be able to put it to good use pretty soon.
Did you ruin the first motors block?
You know, building the motor doesn't always have to be so costly. Just building the bottom end with machining just the block(boring&polishing) shouldn't cost more than $2500, especially on a new motor. Of course pulling & installing the motor will cost like $2500-$3000.If you can pull/install yourself, even better.
Anyways, good luck. Next time plan ahead(save for a cheap build at least) & watch your back(instal/check every precaution known on the boards,That's why we're here!)
If you weren't running the CAS wire, that definately could have been the problem but a combination of things probably added to the failure.
Did you ever check A/F? What type of oil did you use? Just one dyno pull with an OBDII hooked up might have warned you something was happening(like $50).
Another thought: The ECU provides more timing when higher octane is added due to less detonation/knock. You think scattered advanced timing could've been a large contributor?
Well, how much for the kit? I may be able to put it to good use pretty soon.
Did you ruin the first motors block?
You know, building the motor doesn't always have to be so costly. Just building the bottom end with machining just the block(boring&polishing) shouldn't cost more than $2500, especially on a new motor. Of course pulling & installing the motor will cost like $2500-$3000.If you can pull/install yourself, even better.
Anyways, good luck. Next time plan ahead(save for a cheap build at least) & watch your back(instal/check every precaution known on the boards,That's why we're here!)
Originally Posted by fernandito7
Well as the title states. I blew my engine again. Well the first time i bent a rod and decided to get a new engine and stay at the stock boost. This wasnt too costly at all. Now this time it was totally different. I was driving normal in 5th gear going around 45 mph @2700 rpm when out of nowhere a huge pop i hear. I pulled over to the side and some people helped me push my car to the corner. Oil all over the place and i could see metal shavings underneath where the oil pan is. I had it towed to my local Z specialist shop and i had a huge hole in the block. Now this really p!sses me off. I was running stock boost since i got my new engine. No problems whatsoever for almost a year. I really think that the greddy kit is not a good kit for the Z at all. As etx stated,"they will all go its just a matter of time" i didnt want to believe that but it happened to me. Now i dont want to rebuild cause i dont have the time nor money to do this. So i will be getting a new engine, take the kit out, and run the car back to stock just when i originaly bought it.
For those of u thinking of going turbo i would highly recommend to go forged internals first. Do the build up then add the turbo kit. This sucks so i will be selling my turbo kit complete. If anyone is interested just let me know. This would be great for someone who is in the process of doing a build up and have not bouhgt a turbo kit yet.
For those of u thinking of going turbo i would highly recommend to go forged internals first. Do the build up then add the turbo kit. This sucks so i will be selling my turbo kit complete. If anyone is interested just let me know. This would be great for someone who is in the process of doing a build up and have not bouhgt a turbo kit yet.
Last edited by G3po; Jun 2, 2005 at 04:09 PM.
Originally Posted by slowxturtle
Is it just me or is the 350z engine blowing up alot with fi? Is it a standard percentage of any FI engine?
BUT, at the end of the day, a stock Vq35 is not an ideal FI motor. Built, yes it is ... but stock for stock .. many other engines take to boost better
