APS TT w/ smoke
06-04-2005 | 05:45 PM
#61
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
valve stem seals- not likely (these go out gradually on a motor with lots of miles)
06-04-2005 | 05:51 PM
#62
Originally Posted by g356gear
Under FI conditions in a N/A motor?? Anything is possible.
i hope this isn't the case-much more tragic than valve stem seals... i tried to convince myself that something obscure like taht must have been going on in my motor..i finally faced reality (this happened in a matter of 10 minutes-to add)..and pulled the ol motor out for a reuniting
06-04-2005 | 06:02 PM
#63
Charles - It's only during rapid deceleration... So I will wait it out a few days hoping it will re-learn the idle.
350zdcalb - Damn I'm sorry to hear about your rings... you are my idol for ripping it out and doing it yourself! Wish I had the resources/time for this... That would be the ultimate learning experience. Good luck to you.
350zdcalb - Damn I'm sorry to hear about your rings... you are my idol for ripping it out and doing it yourself! Wish I had the resources/time for this... That would be the ultimate learning experience. Good luck to you.
06-04-2005 | 07:01 PM
#64
Originally Posted by narkotic
350zdcalb - Damn I'm sorry to hear about your rings... you are my idol for ripping it out and doing it yourself! Wish I had the resources/time for this... That would be the ultimate learning experience. Good luck to you.
I have a much better understanding about how this motor works now...i do the work on my days off..and anytime i can- definately a juggling act
06-04-2005 | 08:24 PM
#65
Originally Posted by narkotic
Thank you guys for the responses. I will check my oil level, and try to get a compression test done. Hell, I wouldn't mind doing it myself, but it seems pretty involved removing the coil packs and spark plugs. How much is a compression tester these days?
06-05-2005 | 11:25 AM
#68
Originally Posted by narkotic
Thank you Charles for the response... I was told that since the battery/throttle body has been disconnected for over two weeks that the car loses the idle, and needs to re-learn it. The motor is stock, with just a centerforce clutch that i've had for quite a while now (stock flywheel). I tried the re-learn process w/out the consult but no luck, thats quite a process! I was told from a few people that they experienced this and it just goes away after a while.. And to leave the a/c on to let it idle higher so that it can re-learn. Well i've had the car since Thursday night, and have put about 100 miles on it. How much more do I have to drive for it to auto-learn? It's such an annoyance... having to keep revving up (it's intermittant). I do notice if i let off the gas while driving fast it goes into absolute vacuum (738mmHg on my Greddy). When I had the vortech on, it would be in the 500 range vacuum. Not sure if this has anything to do w/ the turbos or the new Greddy RS blowoff valve. It makes a tiny whistle when i come to a stop.
1. should I just take it to the dealer and have them use the consult on it?
2. should I tighten the bov?
3. drive it off a cliff w/me in the car?
thanks man..
p.s. thanks for the tip on the residue in the muffler.
1. should I just take it to the dealer and have them use the consult on it?
2. should I tighten the bov?
3. drive it off a cliff w/me in the car?
thanks man..
p.s. thanks for the tip on the residue in the muffler.
Narcotic,
I know how to fix the decel problem. You have to do the throttle plate position learning, gas pedal release position learning, followed by the most important, idle air volume learning. The idle on decel issue should resolve at this point. These are in the service manual
G
P.s. I didn't read the entier thread,s orry if this was already covered.
Last edited by GurgenPB; 06-05-2005 at 11:28 AM.
06-05-2005 | 07:17 PM
#70
Update... It still smokes but doesn't look -as- bad. The idle is starting to get a little better.. It only seems to smoke after driving it for a bit.. Lets say I drive on the freeway for 15 miles, get off.. When I come to the stoplight, and drop to neutral, the RPM's drop and the car almost dies, that is when it smokes the worst. This is intermittant.. When the car drops to normal idle in neutral it doesn't smoke. So it only seems to smoke the worst when the car almost dies due to the bad idle. I will keep you guys posted.
06-05-2005 | 07:44 PM
#71
Originally Posted by narkotic
Update... It still smokes but doesn't look -as- bad. The idle is starting to get a little better.. It only seems to smoke after driving it for a bit.. Lets say I drive on the freeway for 15 miles, get off.. When I come to the stoplight, and drop to neutral, the RPM's drop and the car almost dies, that is when it smokes the worst. This is intermittant.. When the car drops to normal idle in neutral it doesn't smoke. So it only seems to smoke the worst when the car almost dies due to the bad idle. I will keep you guys posted.
06-05-2005 | 08:43 PM
#72
I really don't think it's my motor, rather, theres too much oil pressure going to the turbos, or just too much oil in the pan period. Performing a test is time consuming, do you have any reccomendations for somewhere here in california that could remove the coilpacks and plugs and do the test? I don't have the equipment. My installer is quite a drive away.
06-05-2005 | 08:53 PM
#73
Is there oil on the outside of either of the turbos themselves, or is it just coming out of the exhaust? My drivers side turbo is spitting oil all over the left side of my engine bay, and whenever I gun it on the street, there's a massive cloud of white smoke. When I pop the hood, only the left side turbo is smoking. All of my connections are tight; I hope I just don't have a bad seal from the factory. Tomorrow, I'm going to trim some of the oil return hose on that turbo to let it drain faster and see if that cures it.
06-05-2005 | 10:05 PM
#75
Originally Posted by ccartwright
Is there oil on the outside of either of the turbos themselves, or is it just coming out of the exhaust? My drivers side turbo is spitting oil all over the left side of my engine bay, and whenever I gun it on the street, there's a massive cloud of white smoke. When I pop the hood, only the left side turbo is smoking. All of my connections are tight; I hope I just don't have a bad seal from the factory. Tomorrow, I'm going to trim some of the oil return hose on that turbo to let it drain faster and see if that cures it.
a turbocharger with bad seals will not leak externally... at least I have never seen that personally in my life, or heard of it happening to anyone.
if you have a loose oil fitting, a damaged hose, or a cracked fitting... it has potential to only get worse, and if it does you can develope a major oil leak that will dramitically drop oil pressure or cause you run low on oil, both of which will destroy your engine, and in the worst way... just about every component of importance stands to be destroyed... rods, crank, block, camshafts, cylinder heads (cam journals), and more.
06-06-2005 | 05:57 AM
#76
Originally Posted by narkotic
6 quarts! 5 is the factory reccomendation. Honestly i'm not sure how much is in there now, I dumped enough out to put me at the "add" (L) line.
06-06-2005 | 06:41 AM
#77
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
peter.. small suggestion.. on the webpage and install instructions might want to specify that 5qts is under the british measuring system.. that converts to roughly 6 qts under the US measuring system or 5.7 liters
06-06-2005 | 10:22 AM
#79
Does anyone here in the so. cal region know how to perform the idle re-learn process? I do have the service manual and have the steps, but am having no luck. I'll buy ya a beer?
06-07-2005 | 10:33 AM
#80
Everyone is talking about pressure and drainage as possible issues but what about oil volume to the turbos? You can have a low or high pressure feeding the turbos with lots of volume that can force oil past the seals.I know that with certain ball-bearing turbos we use oil restictors to cut down the volume that the turbos bearings sees.In some cases we use .040 restictors! Just another thing to think about.