APS TT w/ smoke
#81
Restrictors will increase the temperature of the oil. A small opening (fixed or adjustable) will restrict but increases the operating temperature of the oil. This may not be a big deal, but...
#83
Originally Posted by narkotic
Thanks Turbo tim and myg35zx.
Tim, could you point me in the direction to find a restrictor like this? I'm in orange county, maybe you guys could fab me one up?
Tim, could you point me in the direction to find a restrictor like this? I'm in orange county, maybe you guys could fab me one up?
If you have the GT series turbos then the restictor should already be integrated into the oil inlet of the turbo.If not we have some restictors here at the shop that we can send out.They are 1/8" npt with a .040, .050, or .060 hole.
#84
Update... I forgot to mention to you all that I have adapted a Greddy RS blow off valve rather than the stock APS one (welded flange) And plugged the recirculatory hole from the turbo outlet to the intercooler.
I had a buddy help me do this, when he stepped on the gas, I watched the diaphragm move. He'd give it gas, then immediatly let off (3krpms). The diaphragm would move all the way in (closed) and when he let off it would move back out slowely then back in. Well during the time it would move out then back in the car would lose too much vacuum and die. I loosened the nut and screwed the bolt in about 10 threads. Doing this leaves the BOV completely closed during idle (it used to have about a 1/4" opening). Now the RPM's dip down to the mark right above the 0 and then comes back up to about 400rpms. It doesn't die at least.
Is this normal? I wish it would just drop down to 400-500rpms as soon as I let off the accelerator (in neutral).
I've done the idle relearning and according to the feedback of the CES light it's working.
Do you guys suggest the fix that performance nissan does?
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=4849
To give me better vacuum?
I had a buddy help me do this, when he stepped on the gas, I watched the diaphragm move. He'd give it gas, then immediatly let off (3krpms). The diaphragm would move all the way in (closed) and when he let off it would move back out slowely then back in. Well during the time it would move out then back in the car would lose too much vacuum and die. I loosened the nut and screwed the bolt in about 10 threads. Doing this leaves the BOV completely closed during idle (it used to have about a 1/4" opening). Now the RPM's dip down to the mark right above the 0 and then comes back up to about 400rpms. It doesn't die at least.
Is this normal? I wish it would just drop down to 400-500rpms as soon as I let off the accelerator (in neutral).
I've done the idle relearning and according to the feedback of the CES light it's working.
Do you guys suggest the fix that performance nissan does?
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=4849
To give me better vacuum?
#87
I hope I'm not speaking too soon but if it makes you feel any better narkotic, after 900 miles and some hard driving last night it seems the smoking problem has gone away. On my way to work this morning I got no smoke at all, hopefully it will stay that way, I'll let ya know.
#91
Forged APS TT install smoking badly. Help?
My car is back together and it's billowing smoke out the exhaust!
I used the search function(no flames please), read the posts about oil lines, overfilled crankcases, etc. My oil lines look good, oil is at the low mark, engine is brand new and has only been on the dyno at low rpm for leak and function testing. (They're using it like a treadmill)
We compression tested it at 150-145-150-150-145-150. Car has zero miles, but it's too much smoke to just be unseated rings. Can I pull the oil lines off the turbos and see if it still smokes at idle without damaging them? any better way to diagnose a bad seal? With a fresh engine, can I have so much compression that it's pressurizing the crankcase and forcing oil past the turbo seals? Advice?
Thanks,
Bruce
I used the search function(no flames please), read the posts about oil lines, overfilled crankcases, etc. My oil lines look good, oil is at the low mark, engine is brand new and has only been on the dyno at low rpm for leak and function testing. (They're using it like a treadmill)
We compression tested it at 150-145-150-150-145-150. Car has zero miles, but it's too much smoke to just be unseated rings. Can I pull the oil lines off the turbos and see if it still smokes at idle without damaging them? any better way to diagnose a bad seal? With a fresh engine, can I have so much compression that it's pressurizing the crankcase and forcing oil past the turbo seals? Advice?
Thanks,
Bruce
#93
Brent-
These guys are really careful. They did a trial start and ran it up to operating temperature. Then, they shut it down, drained and screened the oil, and replace both the oil and filter. It's run for about an hour since then, so it's not just the coating on the new exhaust pieces or something thats dripped onto a hot part. They're just running the rpms up and down within a narrow range, and the smoke keeps coming. It's not "James Bond" smoke but you'd definitely notice it. Got a video if anybody wants to see, but I don't know how to post that on the site.
Bruce
These guys are really careful. They did a trial start and ran it up to operating temperature. Then, they shut it down, drained and screened the oil, and replace both the oil and filter. It's run for about an hour since then, so it's not just the coating on the new exhaust pieces or something thats dripped onto a hot part. They're just running the rpms up and down within a narrow range, and the smoke keeps coming. It's not "James Bond" smoke but you'd definitely notice it. Got a video if anybody wants to see, but I don't know how to post that on the site.
Bruce
#94
#95
me and narkotic both had the same problem when we got our kits installed..now after driving for a while it has seemed to taper off. Before it was enough to be damn annoying but this morning I got no smoke on my way to work.
#96
Most of us are having this problem bro. Don't feel alone! It's not your motor... I am a firm believe that the turbos are getting too much volume of oil. The GT ball bearing turbos tend to do this, and they are supposed to have a restrictor in the oil feed line from the factory. I'm guessing that they either don't have them, or they aren't sufficient. When I get back next week from out of town, I am going to have a new oil T distributor machined to flow less oil volume. With the help of a friend (APS TT owner as well).
#100
Originally Posted by narkotic
If you're referring to me cartright, it's when i'm decelerating, and OFF the gas. Mainly after a nice long drive and sitting at a stoplight.