Plug gap
What is everyone running the gaps on there plugs at? I am getting a SES for multiple misfires and I am thinking its because I didnt gap the plugs. I went with 1 step colder irridim plug. Im not sure if that is it though cause I dropped the stockers back in and came up with the same thing.
Any suggestions?
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
What is everyone running the gaps on there plugs at? I am getting a SES for multiple misfires and I am thinking its because I didnt gap the plugs. I went with 1 step colder irridim plug. Im not sure if that is it though cause I dropped the stockers back in and came up with the same thing.
Any suggestions?
well it probably isnt much help but i put 2 step colder denso iridiums in mine and for the 10-15 minutes i got to drive it no codes came up and it seemed to be running extremely smooth... and i left them gapped as they came... i cant remember the gap but they all came the same.
Ngk LFR6AX-11 or something like that. They are at home so I don't now for sure but that is it, I think. MIA, yeah I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and connected it back up. When I started the SES light wasn't on. But after a few minutes it popped on. Than this morning after getting to work I was sitting there letting it cool down(no turbo timer right now) The SES light flashed 5-10 times which meens it just misfired while I was sitting there at idle. But it seems to run great at normal driving speeds. I have that narrow band Defi-D a/f gauge and at idle it sits around 14.5-15.0 and about every 5-10 seconds it will dip to 16-16.5 I was thinking that maybe I was just running rich at idle and maybe thats what was causing my misfires but if that gauge is even remotely correct that would not be the case. I know narrow band is really only worth a damn at WOT, if that.
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
What is everyone running the gaps on there plugs at? I am getting a SES for multiple misfires and I am thinking its because I didnt gap the plugs. I went with 1 step colder irridim plug. Im not sure if that is it though cause I dropped the stockers back in and came up with the same thing.
Any suggestions?
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
Ngk LFR6AX-11 or something like that. They are at home so I don't now for sure but that is it, I think. MIA, yeah I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and connected it back up. When I started the SES light wasn't on. But after a few minutes it popped on. Than this morning after getting to work I was sitting there letting it cool down(no turbo timer right now) The SES light flashed 5-10 times which meens it just misfired while I was sitting there at idle. But it seems to run great at normal driving speeds. I have that narrow band Defi-D a/f gauge and at idle it sits around 14.5-15.0 and about every 5-10 seconds it will dip to 16-16.5 I was thinking that maybe I was just running rich at idle and maybe thats what was causing my misfires but if that gauge is even remotely correct that would not be the case. I know narrow band is really only worth a damn at WOT, if that.
Once again MIA..........Thanks.
Kyle, the coil gets bolted in the valve cover. So you cant really controll how far down it goes on the plug. I don't see how it could not be on the plug.
Kyle, the coil gets bolted in the valve cover. So you cant really controll how far down it goes on the plug. I don't see how it could not be on the plug.
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
Once again MIA..........Thanks.
Kyle, the coil gets bolted in the valve cover. So you cant really controll how far down it goes on the plug. I don't see how it could not be on the plug.
Kyle, the coil gets bolted in the valve cover. So you cant really controll how far down it goes on the plug. I don't see how it could not be on the plug.
It was getting late last night so I figured I would hit Autozone up in the morning on the way home from work. Its too early and they aren't open when I am on the way to work. I cant try the reset till tomorrow morning also cause I found a small oil leak(size of a silver dollar) this morning before leaving for workcoming from the new rtv seal. So I already drop the pan and stripped the old rtv off applied new rtv. I'll drop oil in it tomorrow morning. You know if it aint one thing its another. Thats alright I WILL get all together, it will take alot more than what has happened so far to detur me from all this.
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
It was getting late last night so I figured I would hit Autozone up in the morning on the way home from work. Its too early and they aren't open when I am on the way to work. I cant try the reset till tomorrow morning also cause I found a small oil leak(size of a silver dollar) this morning before leaving for workcoming from the new rtv seal. So I already drop the pan and stripped the old rtv off applied new rtv. I'll drop oil in it tomorrow morning. You know if it aint one thing its another. Thats alright I WILL get all together, it will take alot more than what has happened so far to detur me from all this.
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
I think he means the electrical connectos that go to the coils....a good place to check but since you didn't remove them it should be fine.
Originally Posted by Kyle(Houston)
Correct...if the electrical connector is not making a good connection it will misfire and throw the code. Even if they were not disconnected I would check them since you moved them around.
MIA, I left the little piece of paper from Advance Auto at home. I'll give my wife a call and see if she can find it and give you a buzz with the info, if the actual code gets printed on the piece of paper they give out. Cool?
Originally Posted by 1 2 NV
MIA, I left the little piece of paper from Advance Auto at home. I'll give my wife a call and see if she can find it and give you a buzz with the info, if the actual code gets printed on the piece of paper they give out. Cool?
1 2 NvV: You should make sure that when you installed the plugs back in you put the coil packs in order. I made this mistake when I install the 1-Step colder plugs when I finished my Vortech install last week. The code that came up on the OBII was a multiple cylinde misfire. On the wires connecting to the coil packs you will see a white paper with the cylinder # on it. They should be in the order starting from the passenger front side: 1 - 3 - 5 then to the driver side front: 2 - 4 - 6. Hope this helps.


