I was thinking about that as well. It would be possible to put the bleeder valave back in right beside the APS t-fitting and still retain the ability to bleed the system from that location.

 

That my friend is actually not too shabby of an idea!

 

Then you will either need to buy the evacuation tool, or just be patient and bubble it out through the radiator filler while the car is running, and heater on. It can take a while.

 

I have to bring this thread back up from the dead! Today, I installed a Blitz Cooling Performer hose and my temp sensor. I have never done this before so I just took the upper rad. hose off and I lost a little coolant. Then I realized I had a leak so I had to take the Blitz hose off after running the car for 2-3 minutes. Again, I lost a little coolant. I would say I lost a good 2-3 cups during my venture. When I got everything hooked back up and running without any leaks, I took her out for a quick spin and my OEM temp gauge shot up to hot and my Defi temp gauge shot up to around 225 +/-. I am guessing I have air in my lines and that is why I am seeing the temps spike up. Also, 3-4 times since I went F/I I have seen my OEM temp gauge shoot up. All but one of them was while driving normally and once was on the track! Am I correct in that the temp issues is likely because of air in the system?

So, I just open the valve at the back left of the motor and let it idle and that will bubble out all the air? Is this correct?

 

Its a combination of using the bleeder valve, as well as the radiator filler as well.

 

ok, i came up with this method after literally banging my head on the wall and jumping up and down pissed off. undo rear air bleed screw, open up the rad cap, turn the car on, and stick the hose on full bore into the radiator!!! the engine running keeps flow going inside the motor and the hose pressure will force out all the air pockets. works like a charm, but it is tough to keep the anti-freeze in, lol. this is a messy method for when you have just plain had enough, but you will get it filled to near max on the first shot.

 

if you can get a coolant filler funnel, that makes life a lot easier when bleeding the coolant system...
I couldn't find one when I needed one, so I made one, very simple
buy a plastic filter from an auto parts store that the small end tapers gradually, you are going to have to test and possible cut portions of the funnel down until it can be fit very snugly into the radiator fill

then, find a rubber cap (used to cap off a hose, also found at an auto parts store)...fit a dowel or other cylinder into the cap so that you have apole with the rubber cap securely fit to one end..this will serve as the plunger...

now, open the bleeder almost all of the way (located on passenger side by firewall)...stick the modified funnel in the radiator fill so that it is as tight as possible...fill the funnel half way with your mixture...
pump the upper radiator hose, this will bubble the air out the system, you can do this several times and you will get a majority of the air out..then put the plunger in the funnel and start the motor...the coolant will heat/ the remaining air will compress and the system will begin to pressurize, the air will escape slowly through the bleeder valve...

let the car run until it gets up to operating temp, then shut er down..wait about 10-15minutes, make sure the funnel is about half way full with solution, then slowly, pull the plunger out of the funnel, some more air will bubble out, fill, the funnel and pump the upper radiator hoise again..repeat the process a few times, this will get all of the air out!

-TODD

 

ive drained and filled my system 4 or 5 times thru all of my turbo woes.

just fill the system real S...L...O...W and you will be fine. let the air escape while you fill. not one time have i had to crank the car and then fill it some more. i pour it slow, with very thin pours, and fill till it overflows. my temp needle doesnt move.

 

Same here.

I even went a step further and added a breather T right next to my water feed line for the turbos (the APS kit has you replace this T with their's to feed the turbos. This way I don't have to disconnect any hard lines in the back, just unscrew the cap.

 

Well...I had been having major air pocket issues with my sleeved motor. Here is the problem...... It's our radiator. The raised portion which mounts the rad filler neck is not high enough to isolate thair bubbles. It's raised only 1/2" or less i believe. After getting the Griffin radiator (they can custom make one for you) which has a 3/4" or so raised top that houses the filler/neck, I NEVER even had to bleed the system at all, ever. The bleeding takes place extremely efficiently and automatically. Just fill it up, run the car, let it cool down, and just top it off once (even that's optional). then su tdrive the car and top off the overflow tank.

Ok, now on to your problem. The sure way to do it is to do this. Get a Prestone flush 'n fill kit (I think that's the name) from a local pep boys/kragen/autozone. It's about $11 i think. It will come with a few sizes of tee's. Use the 5/8" or 3/4" one. They all tee into a garden hose thread. You replace the stock air bleeder valve with one of these. You can then just get some garden hose thread barbs from a hardware store, along with silicone or vinyl clear tubes. I also made a special fitting from an old rad cap, and made a barb go up from that, with both fitted into a one gallon water bottle. When i used to fill up the car, i just connect these two (the bleeder valve) and the rad cap fitting, as sell as clamp the 1" OF bypass hose to force the water through the radiator. this bleedes the air like no other. Here is an old pic.

 

Gurgen, While we are at it.. Your opinion of the Kit of using a stud down the
Sand Casting Hole to prevent lift.

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/189728-head-strengthening-mod.html

Head anti lift kit.. Your opinion... Since you have been there - done that.

Cheers Amy -