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F/I on forged bottom end-stock compression

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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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Default F/I on forged bottom end-stock compression

Well....I have been thinking about the options of having boost (turbo) on the stock compression ratio...but with a forged bottom end. I realize for past 500 rwhp it would be a problem. But...with say 10-11 lbs on stock compression I have seen a few guys eclipse the 500 rwhp mark. I would be content with that level of hp and boost on 94 octane. Thoughts??
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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i was thinking the same thing this week.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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if I ever do a built bottom end I will be going with 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 I personally rather have higher compression with lower boost than lower compression with high boost... just make sure you have a good tuner doing your work
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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It sounds reasonable, but if I may ask, what the benefit to putting the car "near the limits" with forged, stock comp. components, when for a little extra cost, you could put stress levels more in the 'comfort zone' and still achieve your goal of near 500 WHP. The lower Comp. would probably manifest itself in engine longevity.

Them's my thoughts..
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 10:54 AM
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well the 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 thats if the car is supercharged otherwise I would say between 9:0:1 - 9:5:1 on turbo..... if I recall the worlds fastest 350z is using 10:3:1 but they're on race gas
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:04 AM
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i am with the guys who want to run 10:1. My biggest fear is going fi and then not having enough torque down low and needing more. Of course, that would pretty much necessitate a new car. I have 50k miles so i dont think it is feasible to go FI on my current engine. I would have to build it. I also want to retain as much low end grunt as possible. I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
I agree I dont know how anyone could use anymore than that on the street....
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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For bragging rights I guess.
400whp is already a decent number for a daily driver IMO.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 11:39 AM
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9:5:1 sounds like the best compromise.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatmitzu
For bragging rights I guess.
400whp is already a decent number for a daily driver IMO.
400whp gets you into the 12's and 500whp into the 11's. There is one guys on here with like 440whp or so that gets 11.6 all the time but he's got slicks and is a really good driver.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:09 PM
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What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BluZee
What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
Lost of guys have gone with just the bottom end and boosted higher than stock. This works fine. Stock bottom end with forged internals will set you back about $3900. Add your TT kit + average install of $2500 + gauges and you will land in the $15K ball park.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JonathanG35
i am with the guys who want to run 10:1. My biggest fear is going fi and then not having enough torque down low and needing more. Of course, that would pretty much necessitate a new car. I have 50k miles so i dont think it is feasible to go FI on my current engine. I would have to build it. I also want to retain as much low end grunt as possible. I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.
I turbo'd my car with 30k on it with no problems.The guy Gman is talking about did his car with 60k I believe with an APS TT kit.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 02:07 PM
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I thought about the same thing but figured if I'm going to build it might as well go with a lower cr, 9.0:1 and be done with it and have room for more boost later down the the road if desired. But hopefully I can get a test drive in one before doing so to make sure that's the route I would what to go. From what I hear , it doesn't effect off boost power most at all.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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no it really feels about the same. driven on 8.5:1, 9.3:1, and stock... i cant say that i feel much difference if at all. the turbos just come on so fast anyway... and in part throttle its not noticable.
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 05:42 PM
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7/15/05, 517pm: I have stopped smoking for 10 days, 1 hours, and 17 minutes. I have not smoked 181 cigarettes and saved $40.73.



hahahahaaaaa! right on!
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Old Jul 15, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by uplz4588
7/15/05, 517pm: I have stopped smoking for 10 days, 1 hours, and 17 minutes. I have not smoked 181 cigarettes and saved $40.73.



hahahahaaaaa! right on!
Thanks for the ....ummmm....contribution.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoGCoupe
well the 10:0:1 or 10:3:1 thats if the car is supercharged otherwise I would say between 9:0:1 - 9:5:1 on turbo..... if I recall the worlds fastest 350z is using 10:3:1 but they're on race gas
Technically, the world's fastest 350Z doesn't pertain to this convo since it is not using a VQ35DE...however, the fastest 350Z with a VQ35 would pertain to this. (just wanted to point that out)

I don't believe they are on stock compression...I could be wrong, but I don't believe they are. I do know that they are using JE pistons. (probably custom bore and cr)
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by BluZee
What if you wanted to just use stock boost (pick your kit) for lets say 350-400 rwhp and just wanted the forged bottom end for reliability? Is there any reason that you couldnt do this?
No offense what-so-ever, though I recommend this to everyone who asks these type of questions...I recommend you learn some more about forced induction before taking the plunge. This is not an insult. If you know even just a moderate bit of what you are talking about when you go into it, you won't be screwed near as bad, if at all.

To answer your question. No, there is no reason you couldn't do that. The price would be around $5k to get the parts, have the pistons and rods balanced, the block bored and honed, and have it assembled. (I can give you direct pricing quotes from SGP Racing if you'd like)
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 01:25 AM
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g356gear, you are going to be using an APS TT right? (therefore, using Unichip as the EMS)

Personally, I wouldn't use a piggyback if I went with that CR. Going to need a great tuner and a great EMS (such as a standalone) would be better IMHO.
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