F/I on forged bottom end-stock compression

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07-16-2005, 08:58 AM

#21

g356gear

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Originally Posted by nis350ztt

g356gear, you are going to be using an APS TT right? (therefore, using Unichip as the EMS)

Personally, I wouldn't use a piggyback if I went with that CR. Going to need a great tuner and a great EMS (such as a standalone) would be better IMHO.

No....sold my APS tt to CESARTORRES on the board. I got in on the APS ST group buy. Trying to evaluate all my options for tuning right now. Unichip is a problem because I have no tuners very close. I can get an HKS Fcon from Phunk for a good price but my local HKS tuner will not tune it unless he sells the components....all at list prices...OUCH!! I have a lead on a used Motec M600 but again....tuning is an issue locally. I am anxious to see how Sharif does on the E-manage Ultimate. We will see what develops.

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07-16-2005, 10:05 AM

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Z1 Performance

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Originally Posted by JonathanG35

i am with the guys who want to run 10:1. My biggest fear is going fi and then not having enough torque down low and needing more. Of course, that would pretty much necessitate a new car. I have 50k miles so i dont think it is feasible to go FI on my current engine. I would have to build it. I also want to retain as much low end grunt as possible. I think 400-500 whp would be all that i ever wanted in an RWD daily driver.

this is going to come off as rude, but I am not intending it to be so. If you can tell the difference in how a car at this HP level feels at 9:1 vs 10:1 compression, you are superman....the difference is marginal, at best, on pump gas

As we talked about yesterday g356. I don't see the point in the time and expense of such an "exotic" setup (and by exotic I mean not mainstream) for your relatively modest power goals. I'd go safe o the CR..maybe 9:1 for a car that will primarily see pump gas, and invest the time and money into some real engine mgmt

Last edited by Z1 Performance; 07-16-2005 at 10:08 AM.

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07-16-2005, 05:48 PM

#23

g356gear

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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance

I guess then main reason why I even brought it up is just due to the total lack of tuning talent in my area....there is NONE that I would even trust to install a CAI.

If I can use a kit that was designed and tuned for a stock 10.3:1 compression motor out of the box.....and do it on a built motor that won't break with the same compression ....then that is my goal. If I can change out an actuator to up the boost just a touch in the summer and get in the mid to high 400's then that's great too. If I wanted 500+hp consistently then yes I would go low compression. But I have to drive this car year round....and we do get snow here. 400 rwhp is plenty for my daily driving goal. I just want piece of mind that it's not going to spontaneously let go.