Picking up my G35c today!
Picking up my G35c today!
I'm scheduled to pick up my forged bottom end APS powered 04 coupe later this afternoon. Here is a run of what I've had done to it:
Arias 8.6:1 forged pistons with 0.020" overbore
Pauter foreged rods
JWT cams - custom grind
JWT valve springs
ARP Main and Head studs
APS TT (350Z)
APS TD Exhaust (350Z)
APS test pipes
Koyo Radiator (350Z)
Samco hoses
Pithon locks
Crawford Cast plenum
JWT clutch (for now)
JWT Flywheel
Braided stainless fuel return line
Stock sleeves
Stock block
Stock crank
My goal is 500whp untuned on 12psi.
I drove the car Saturday night for the first time with the turbos hooked up. I didn't get on it at all, just barely enough to hear the blow off valve a few times. I had some major overheating problems at first, but we believe we have gotten all the air out of the cooling system and everything is normal now. My plans now are to have my custom front nosepiece molded and to concentrate on breaking the car in. I want to get about 600 miles on it and then take it to Chicago for dyno tuning.
The only noticable problem now is that the car doesn't idle very well. Off idle, its smooth as stock, and the sound is amazing. However, with the cams it just struggles to idle at 600rpm! I plan on swinging by a Nissan dealership and seeing if they can raise the idle, but I'm not sure what they'll be able to do for it. If I can't get the idle changed I will attempt to add my own idle adjustment 'valve.'
I'll post pictures sometime soon, its amazing at how tight everything is in the engine now. I would go as far to say that the Koyo radiator doens't fit. Its too deep. Once we got the custom brackets made for it the shop had to 'trim' my factory fans. He ended up having to even shave the fins of the fans themselves to clear the intercooler piping! At least 30% of the fan housing was eliminated! I really wanted to keep the factory fans, and I have to give Quick Rev! (www.QuickRev.com) credit for making my wishes come true!
Now, I am just going to try to enjoy driving the car that I haven't had access to since last December!
Arias 8.6:1 forged pistons with 0.020" overbore
Pauter foreged rods
JWT cams - custom grind
JWT valve springs
ARP Main and Head studs
APS TT (350Z)
APS TD Exhaust (350Z)
APS test pipes
Koyo Radiator (350Z)
Samco hoses
Pithon locks
Crawford Cast plenum
JWT clutch (for now)
JWT Flywheel
Braided stainless fuel return line
Stock sleeves
Stock block
Stock crank
My goal is 500whp untuned on 12psi.
I drove the car Saturday night for the first time with the turbos hooked up. I didn't get on it at all, just barely enough to hear the blow off valve a few times. I had some major overheating problems at first, but we believe we have gotten all the air out of the cooling system and everything is normal now. My plans now are to have my custom front nosepiece molded and to concentrate on breaking the car in. I want to get about 600 miles on it and then take it to Chicago for dyno tuning.
The only noticable problem now is that the car doesn't idle very well. Off idle, its smooth as stock, and the sound is amazing. However, with the cams it just struggles to idle at 600rpm! I plan on swinging by a Nissan dealership and seeing if they can raise the idle, but I'm not sure what they'll be able to do for it. If I can't get the idle changed I will attempt to add my own idle adjustment 'valve.'
I'll post pictures sometime soon, its amazing at how tight everything is in the engine now. I would go as far to say that the Koyo radiator doens't fit. Its too deep. Once we got the custom brackets made for it the shop had to 'trim' my factory fans. He ended up having to even shave the fins of the fans themselves to clear the intercooler piping! At least 30% of the fan housing was eliminated! I really wanted to keep the factory fans, and I have to give Quick Rev! (www.QuickRev.com) credit for making my wishes come true!
Now, I am just going to try to enjoy driving the car that I haven't had access to since last December!
I didn't keep track. It seems like it was more then 20K though, if I had to guess.
The motor labor alone to pull it, build it, and reinstall it with the turbos was $4,000
The parts for the TT, the exhaust, and the cams were $10,300
The pistons and rods were around $2,000
There seemed to be a ton of nickel and diming along the way, too. And, I still have to pay the shop that finished the turbo installation, including custom fitting the Koyo radiator (which I don't expect to be cheap at all).
I'm going to try to stay away from TS. With my Procharger they showed gross incompetence and terrible customer service. I asked them to do a seeminly simple adjustment to my ECU (raise injector duty cycle above 5500rpm) and I ended up with longer duty cycles throughout the whole band, which resulted in running my car with 30lbs of fuel pressure
When I called them about it they told me I was wrong, even though I had the dyno sheets to prove that I had the exact same fuel curve, just 25lbs less of fuel pressure... I had TS reflash my ecu to 'normal' and I just hope that they could at least do that right...
The motor labor alone to pull it, build it, and reinstall it with the turbos was $4,000
The parts for the TT, the exhaust, and the cams were $10,300
The pistons and rods were around $2,000
There seemed to be a ton of nickel and diming along the way, too. And, I still have to pay the shop that finished the turbo installation, including custom fitting the Koyo radiator (which I don't expect to be cheap at all).
I'm going to try to stay away from TS. With my Procharger they showed gross incompetence and terrible customer service. I asked them to do a seeminly simple adjustment to my ECU (raise injector duty cycle above 5500rpm) and I ended up with longer duty cycles throughout the whole band, which resulted in running my car with 30lbs of fuel pressure
When I called them about it they told me I was wrong, even though I had the dyno sheets to prove that I had the exact same fuel curve, just 25lbs less of fuel pressure... I had TS reflash my ecu to 'normal' and I just hope that they could at least do that right...
Reg the Idle
After any length of downtime with your vehicle...with the ECU not actively working...it will "reset" to an extent (Gurgen can better explain this)
The Adaptive learning process of the ECU will take several startups and several days to dial in some new info that will somewhat adjust things like idle.
After going through 2 downtimes with my car, i can tell you that after hooking everything up and getting back on the road, it took at least 2-3 days or longer for the idle to stabalize and the for the car to not shut down everytime i released the gas quickly (the rpm's would drop quickly, would drop below 600rpm and the car would shut down)
so, give it a few days before you conclusively blame it on the different cams and injectors,,it may compensate enough to suite you
The Adaptive learning process of the ECU will take several startups and several days to dial in some new info that will somewhat adjust things like idle.
After going through 2 downtimes with my car, i can tell you that after hooking everything up and getting back on the road, it took at least 2-3 days or longer for the idle to stabalize and the for the car to not shut down everytime i released the gas quickly (the rpm's would drop quickly, would drop below 600rpm and the car would shut down)
so, give it a few days before you conclusively blame it on the different cams and injectors,,it may compensate enough to suite you
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The car isn't much louder then stock during normal driving. I haven't gotten on it at all, so I have no idea what it is at WOT. I have 150 miles on it now 
It is still stalling 80% of the time I come to a stop. I have been trying to roll my foot off the brake to give the car a bit of gas, but its a somewhat difficult manuever.
I love the sound of the turbos starting to spool at 3,000 RPM and the blow off valve sounds great... I can't wait to get on it!
I'll give the ECU a few days to decide what to do before I make any changes, but I do feel that a car at this level should idle above 600RPM! Hopefully the ECU will come to that conclusion too.
It is still stalling 80% of the time I come to a stop. I have been trying to roll my foot off the brake to give the car a bit of gas, but its a somewhat difficult manuever.
I love the sound of the turbos starting to spool at 3,000 RPM and the blow off valve sounds great... I can't wait to get on it!
I'll give the ECU a few days to decide what to do before I make any changes, but I do feel that a car at this level should idle above 600RPM! Hopefully the ECU will come to that conclusion too.
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May 16, 2016 10:42 PM