Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Looks like everything is going well. Yes the fuel pump is a bit of a chore. On some cars, it just requires grinding the base of the pump, and on others, some dremelling of the clip is required. I really think the 350Z is possessed, and transforms and mutates itself over time.

Hey, if you need NGK Irdiums, I have a ton in stock. I can overnight them if you are in a hurry.


keep up the good work!

spdkils

What board would that be?


BTW the LHS Turbo is in! Whooo took a while to figure out how to get that "hard to reach nut" in.

But after a bit of blood, some really aqward reaching that turbo is in. (Done with the fuel mod for now, still doesn't fit, but I'll come back to it.) There really isn't any tourque specs on it. So once we got the manifold in, we just figured the turbo would be similar 20lbs or so.

I doubt we've got that much on it. With those nuts, and the short wrench we'll be lucky to get 15lbs on it. 10lbs more likely.

dirtroad

iTrader: (1)

^^^ 350zmotoring.com - land of APS

spdkils

For everyone else fitting that damn fuel pump.

1) Cut the rings around the "top" electrical contacts flush. (Well to the contacts.)

2) Cut 2/3rds of the material out of the bottom retention cup slots.

3) Shave about 1/2 of the top notches off the fuel pump.

4) Remove almost 1/2 of the retainer rubber plug. (I used the mold line as my refernce.)

5) PUSH!



BTW both turbos are in, and we're working on the plumbing now... I have pictures of the angle you need to twist your hand to tighten the LHS turbo. The RHS is easier going... But I didn't know what heat shield I was supposed to bend @ 1st. So we had to use socket extensions and hammer them... To bend it with the manifold in place.

We took a few hour break today... cause three back to back 12 hour days sucks!

spdkils

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

I used a razorblade & sliced the rubber in half.Then I dremmeled the clip & pushed the pump in.Took about an hour.Aps didn't drill the fuel pressure regulator all the way so I had to use a tap & re-thread the three nipples.
Zip tie the vacume line because the clamp provided is too large.

Make sure all of the hose clamps are not rubbing/touching any part of the fuel lines.

Good luck.

Wes

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, my fuel pump mod was a ***** too. I used a Dremel to enlarge the bottom clipping holes. If they can be of any help, you can use the following pictures as reference for you own install:

http://www.science.uottawa.ca/~paul/G35/TwinTurbo/

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

They're supposed to be like that, so it doesn't leak. They have to be TIGHT.

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

I second that... The FPR and the fittings are tapered... They are suppose to be that tight... If you tapped and rethreaded them, you better double check for leaks under pressure!!

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

At first they wouldn't even start to thread, so I had to re-thread to at least start them.They were still super tight. I used some lock-tight just in case.
Those pics are helpfull. I still need to cut the whole for the intake tube so now I know exactly where to put it.
Would you think I need to take my bumper off? I've already installed the IC with it on.
Looks like a clean install.
I like your plenum.

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

I also had to rethread them, except the middle one which went in correctly. The other two were definitely too tight, I was destroying the aluminium housing. All is well and tight, no leaks. Some pics:
http://www.science.uottawa.ca/~paul/.../G35TT076.html
http://www.science.uottawa.ca/~paul/.../G35TT077.html

Purple_Peer

@ spdkils

so you are going to leave the internals stock?!
aren´t you scared about blowing up your engine, or is a internal modification planed in future?

thanks - greetings from germany

Monsta

iTrader: (10)

LUCKY LUCKY LUCKY

spdkils

I already have the parts for a build... (Well I should have them this week.)

I have a new clutch, pistons, and rods all from Forged Internals. (Another plug, because I got a great deal on the parts.) As well as the new waste gates, computer system, etc.

I have already installed a RaceLogic traction control system, and I should have the Quaife installed as soon as the turbo is complete. (Its paid for, I just need to be able to get the car to the shop.)

However what I never have enough of is $$$. So I bought all the parts... Now I'm just saving for the install... It shouldn't only take me a few months, but I'm commited now that I have another ~5k in parts laying around waiting.

I'm an impulse buyer, so its best to have the parts on hand and not the cash.

spdkils

one3502nv

iTrader: (1)

Not my thread here, but just to add about the realiabilty of the APS kit,,, I have just about 80,000 miles on my Z and just about 20,000 on my APS TT running over 400 whp and boosting over 10lbs with 0 problems!!! With bone stock heads and block... As long as its properly installed and maintained, you should be able to have years of fun on a stock block....

Purple_Peer

whats wrong?


spdkils you must feel pretty good with all that stuff in your garage

tig488

iTrader: (18)

i actually went to Lowes and bought 3 new threaded barbs and they fit perfect in the regulator, i did use some thread sealant tho.

spdkils

I'm running up against this issue right now. (The fuel pressure regulator!!!)

Its getting to be a drag with all the Fuel system snags...

I tried to find a 1/2 inch plug tap, but wasn't able to... So I'll have to call around tomorrow.

I'll try the lowes thing as well... I also have a lose oil feed line off the RHS turbo. Cranked that mother down and the line still jiggles like its loose! It seems their "Highest quality fabbed" parts arn't tested for tolerences before they are shipped.

Oil/Water is ran... But I have 1 loose fitting, and 1 crappy fuel pressure regulator housing...

Makes me want to buy the AAM fuel system and scrap this APS one.

xxlbeerZ

iTrader: (8)

From what I've read, many people say it doesn't seem like the barbs will fit in the regulator at first, but they will screw in. The type of threads they are causes this for a tighter, leak free fit.

I guess I should go try to screw mine together and see. I believe I can assemble the regulator before my actual install..

Madelinot

iTrader: (1)

Yes, you can, that's what I did. If they're anything like mine were, you'll have a hard time. I am convinced that the threads were too tight, I was barely able to continue tightening the fitting using a large vise and a good wrench and the fitting was screwed only a few threads in. I'm telling you, I was destroying the aluminium housing. I went to a machine shop and they retaped the holes properly (they did it for free, took 5 minutes). It was still tight to put in and I also used thread sealer. BTW, the middle fitting went it correctly, only the 2 on the side were too tight. Good luck!

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Did any of you have to drill out the holes on the two side intercooler mounting brackets? Mine are about 1/4 inch off, and I cant attach the IC to the bracket? I tried loosening everything to gain more play, but looks like we'll need to drill out that holes a bit. This is going on a G35, BTW.