OK, it's about time for my first oil change since getting the APS TT...I can't believe I've already got 2500 miles down...

Performance Nissan is recommending the Motul 300V 10W30, I was going to go with Mobil but they say Motul is the best. What the opinion on that from people that know?

thanks

 

redline is good, ive never heard of motul oil...

 

motul or amsoil.

Mobile1 is for the masses. For the same price (actually a little less) you can run amsoil.

motul is expensive, but I have heard good things.

As long as you are regularly changing it, Castrol GTX conventional oil will be good enough.

 

Doesn't APS call for 10w40 in there instructions? At least thats what they called for in mine.

 

Turbo generate much more heat than N/A. Therefore, synthetic oil is prefer. All 3 brands mention are fine. In the test, Amsoil is a little better than Mobil 1 but if you change them every 3000 miles, you don't have to worry about it. Just go for your favourite brand and make sure that they are fully synthetic oil.

 

I vote for AMSOil. You want an oil that's pretty readily available, just in case you run into an issue and need a top off. Mobil 1 is the most readily available, but from what I've seen it tends to be too thin and VQ motors like to consume it. AMSOil is available at many normal auto parts stores, and is one of the best synthetics out there.

 

Mobil 1 is very nearly as good as some of the others mentioned here.
Motul is very very good once you get into this level of oil the differences betwen say Redline and Motul become academic though..


As for the readily available Mobil1:
Run in 15w-50 in summer and 0w-40 as a winter oil.
Redline 10w-40 is also VII free and thats what I currently runb since i found it on clearance sale for 2.99

 

I never heard of Amsoil, I shall look for it...

Now I thought it's 10W30...which one is it 10w30 or 10w40?
I'm in cali so there's not such thing as winter

 

The evo guys like the 10w30 that amsoil puts out. Either the 10w30 or the 10w40 will do you right and provide plenty of lubrication. APS calls for a 10w40 or a 10w50 in their instructions. APS owners are running as low as 5w30 to 15w50 in them so you decide what you want.

If you do get amsoil, join their preferred customer program for like 20 bucks a yr. You will save some decent money on their stuff - all of course through their website

 

I've been using the Motul 300V 5W40 since my TT install and I've heard it's good for about 10,000km

 

Yes, all fully synthetic oil are good for 10,000 Kms for turbo and 25,000 Kms for N/A.(set by BMW and Mercedes in their on board computer) However, I would recomend to change them at 5,000 Kms for turbo (espesially for all performance oriented that FI the VQ35) and 10,000 to 15,000 Kms for N/A depending on driving style (high way, number of start, offten high RPM)

 

I just checked the price on this Motul and it's like $100 for 5 gallons (unless I'm calculating wrong...)
I stick with Mobil or if I find it try out the AMSOil

 

Next week I'm going to be changing my oil for the first time since the turbo install. I was considering going with Mobil-1 but I'll look around for some Amsoil and see what it's all about.

 

Here is a great comparison of motor oils. Motul is not listed but is arguably the best performing engine oil available to the US because it is the only "synthetic" available that uses a synthetic base oil in the manufacturing process. Here is a great link that will quickly get you up to speed on oil facts.
More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
The best thing to do is run whatever synthetic you choose and send it to Blackstone Labs and adjust viscosity based on the results.

 

Why do you think that NISMO Team uses MOTUL? MOTUL is the technical partner and sponsor of the NISMO Team in JGT Series. I think the NISMO Team knows what's best for their engines.


Even Skyline GT-R (R34) in 2003 series.

Since MOTUL 300V series oils are for racing, they don't carry API nor ACEA rating. They are loaded with anti-wear additives, but those additives can possibly kill catalytic convertors in passenger cars. For street cars (w/ cat), I'd look for oils that have ACEA A3/B3 rating. Also OEM approvals like BMW LongLife-01, VW 502 and/or MB 229.3 would work as well. Those ratings and approvals indicate that it has HTHS (High Temperature High Shear) number greater than 3.5.

Turbo = Synthetic Oils. Please don't settle with cheap dino oils on Wal-Mart shelf.

 

Because they are one of their sponsors, nothing more. If Havoline wanted to give me $25,000 a year I would run their oil and change it every 150-300 miles just like the JGT series and I bet my engine wouldn't blow up. The JGTC is not an endurance race but just longer than a sprint so drawing a parallel between those cars oil requirements and our cars are a bit far fetched. Welcome Newb.

J/K Honestly, welcome to the forum. Sorry this had to be the response to your first post.

 

What do you guys think of Royal Purple 10W-30 thats what I used during my last oil change. Will be using Turbonetics TS-1 next time..

 

I like 10w40, for some strange reason I felt a difference in how smooth the engine was and how fast and effortlessly the turbos would spool when I changed from 5w30 or 10w30. Cant remember which one it was.

Im also at 15k miles on the APS kit or 43K total.

 

probably should have asked that at the beginning but can someone break down the numbers for me 10w40....vs 5w30....and so on what's the first number? I assume w stands for weight...and what's the last number? And how does it all add up?

 

I didn't know motul 300V range has 10w30??? it should be 5w30, right?

I was running mobil 1 all the time (10w30 and 0w40), as soon as I switched to motul, the engine has become soooo smooth and less vibration and noise (didn't only happen to my car, a few of my friends feel so too)... and from then onwards, I will use motul instead of mobil 1.... just the personal preference I would say. You will not go wrong with those big brands, just need to choose the correct weight!

cheers,

richie