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Motul for APS TT?

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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
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I'm not an oil expert but this is how I interpret the numbers, as it was told to me.

The first number is the amount of cold weather protection and the other number is the hot weather. So the higher and lower the number the thicker the oil becomes.

Here in california, going below 10 might not be necessary depending on where you live. I went with 10w40 because of the summer. I don't know what the numbers actually represent or stand for, just a guideline to what the numbers mean.

I think i just confused myself....Sorry just thought i'd share.

Originally Posted by mrtomcat
probably should have asked that at the beginning but can someone break down the numbers for me 10w40....vs 5w30....and so on what's the first number? I assume w stands for weight...and what's the last number? And how does it all add up?
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 11:37 AM
  #22  
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Please read this link.
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
Originally Posted by barthelb
I'm not an oil expert but this is how I interpret the numbers, as it was told to me.

The first number is the amount of cold weather protection and the other number is the hot weather. So the higher and lower the number the thicker the oil becomes.

Here in california, going below 10 might not be necessary depending on where you live. I went with 10w40 because of the summer. I don't know what the numbers actually represent or stand for, just a guideline to what the numbers mean.

I think i just confused myself....Sorry just thought i'd share.
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Old Aug 30, 2005 | 08:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by theking
Very interesting info, I'm glad I deal with software and not oil for a living
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 06:15 AM
  #24  
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I just picked up some Amsoil 10w-30 this morning. Going to change it out this weekend.
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 06:40 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Turbofrog
Since MOTUL 300V series oils are for racing, they don't carry API nor ACEA rating. They are loaded with anti-wear additives, but those additives can possibly kill catalytic convertors in passenger cars.
Have you seen UOA of 300V? 300V has NORMAL level of ZDDP and Sulfur. There is high level of MoDTC, but it's is not dangerous for catalytic converter.
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 06:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Z350Lover
I didn't know motul 300V range has 10w30??? it should be 5w30, right?

I was running mobil 1 all the time (10w30 and 0w40), as soon as I switched to motul, the engine has become soooo smooth and less vibration and noise (didn't only happen to my car, a few of my friends feel so too)... and from then onwards, I will use motul instead of mobil 1.... just the personal preference I would say. You will not go wrong with those big brands, just need to choose the correct weight!

cheers,

richie
I wonder about iron, lead and copper levels in your UOA...
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 07:23 AM
  #27  
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wow, I thought mrtomcat was back for a second.
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 08:51 AM
  #28  
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And I thought Taurran was back too???
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