..and no head work?

my Z will be going under the knife soon.. just replacing pistons to lower comp, connecting rods and bolts, and maybe injectors but nothing else else.

should i spend the extra $$ to get cams and what not?

i'm not looking for uber HP gains like sharif (btw ur crazy!! )

i just want a reliable somewhat higher boosting Z i can beat up on the track and not blow it.

thanks

--Cheston

 

IMO, if you're not looking for huge gains in HP then the stock cams would be ok. When you start getting into the high HP realm it's ideal to look for cams that are shorter in duration with minimal overlap (maybe a possible regrind).

As far as headwork is concerned I'd go with a simple match port & polish and concentrate efforts on the exhaust side. Like, opening up the tracts to 85% of the valve diameter. Also a little chamber work would be good to get rid of any casting material and sharp edges. Also remove any threads in which the spark plugs do not engage. It's more of a safety issue and can help prevent detonation or pre-ignition.

 

It is not necessary but if you have the cams and headwork you can make more power without stressing the motor as much. I made 543whp with only 12.5psi. If your goal is 500whp I am sure that could be done with 10psi. Basically you will have a more efficient motor that would probably last longer. I don't know your budget but cams and headwork will be about $3K more.

Also if you are anything like me you will want more power. I have been driving my car with 543whp for a few weeks and I am going to up the boost and change the wastegates in order to make more power. If I did not do the cams and headwork the first time, I would have to pay for the labor a second time to get it done.

 

i just didnt find any cams that i thought would be good for FI setups.. hence the no cams listed... Adam at Z1 recommended the Tomei 268s but i don't know. did u get a custom JWT grind or just the one they have available..

 

The fully built motor I sold had full port and polish with the JWT s1 cams. The guy I sold it to on the board has already maxed out the Greddy TT injectors because of the extra flow over the stock heads and cams...at the same boost levels. He has upgraded to a 650cc equivalent I believe just to balance out the extra flow through the motor. There are serious gains to be had with cams and p&P....but it may cost you even more to balance out the extra power.

 

I would agree totally!

 

Cam theory on FI....everyone has a diffierent opinion on this. Short duration, longer duration, smaller lift, bigger lift..how about larger valves...overlap??? The list and debate is endless...so I wont even go there.

I will say that the JWT cams, for my experience, and also tuning Gman's car with the same cam, is that they work well...and you see a shift in power to the right, so the car continues to make power much further than the stock cam.

SGP use Tomei and JWT..also with good results.

That said, if you want 500whp or so, then cams are really not needed.

 

Sharif - Been talking with the folks @ JWT & they are working on a F/I specific cam set but it won't be available for 4-6 months. For now, their S1 cams DO seem to work fairly well with F/I so those might be a good option. Personally, I'm planning on just maxing out my Vortech on the stock internals & factory heads for now but will probably build in the near future. U KNOW that you have my business so I'll be picking your brain from time to time!!
FWIW - I'm an avid believer in Corky Bell's views toward F/I & in his books regarding F/I, his opinion is that current cam grinds designed for N/A motors use too much overlap & duration to be effective for complete combustion chamber fill & scavenging to be optimium for a F/I setup. JWT seems to follow this mindset as well & thus the new F/I specific cams will have much different grinds than even the S1's ( or so I'm told ).

 

hmm.. thanks Sharif/Mean Gene for ur inputs...

i really want to get FI specific cams, but tada, none really out there go make em Sharif!!!... so i guess i'll wait and see what JWT has in store, i mean.. they of all people would make them for their own TT kit. so i'll see...

5xx rwhp is fine with me for a daily/track car that i can drift/roadrace/cruise in.. again. not looking for top top HP #s, just something that i can make my car fun(-er)

i trust Howard/Richey with my engine build and their tuning abilities... so whatever they say. i'll go with..

 

Mean Gene....I am here to help when you are ready!
You are correct that none of the current cams on the market are really FI specific. The JWT has minimal overlap, only only slightly increased duration compared to some of the other cams on the market. The intake is advanced 4 degrees as well.

For now, I think a mild Tomei or the JWT's are the best fit...until someone engineers a fresh turbo cam for our car.

Interestly enough, the Evo and Supra guys have been running REALLY aggresive cams on their turbo applications, with excellent results as well. It's really too much of a mad science...as sometimes...theory is very different from actual.

 

Definitely, Cheston.

What parts are you going to use? Specifically engine management.

 

Here are some specs on 2 popular Supra cams, the 264's being the most popular for everyday street use. Maybe someone can use these as models for a regrind.
Actually, the 272 specs may be a better choice because of our .5 litre increase in displacement, I don't know..
Just gee-wiz info if anyone cares

 

apparently, Techno had some prototype Nismo Pistons and rods a while back they were supposed to install when they thought my engine would blow, but since it never did. they've had the parts lying around waiting for me until i was ready.

turns out, they're just JE pistons and carrillo rods. 9.5:1 compression, all the parts have been heat treated (if i can remember correctly...) and if i do bump up on injector size they're most likely will be PE injectors.

I'm also building custom water lines for the IHI turbos that i have and will be routing that accordingly, which means i might need a thicker radiator core. i might be looking at PE there... i dont know if the Koyo will be sufficient.

well engine management will be interesting. I think the limitations of just the ECU tuning will definately keep me from ultimate power gains.. but i'm glad i have Tadashi as my tuner... He had tuned a 585+ rwhp G35coupe drift car that was TT'd by greddy and built motor, but not using any emanage/piggyback system. i'm not quite sure how he did it, but i'm thinking he'd probably be doing the same for me as well. Maybe that car upped the maf tube so the volume is greater to reduce the voltage? we'll see.. i'll be meeting with my builders later this week to talk it over...

 

Yea don't have half @ss nothin plz THx

 

 

I'll try to take a closer look at them when i go into the shop-

olllllllllllllllllld olllllllllllllllllld picts.



notice the date on the box..... ;P

i think these are the same ones i'll be using.

 

When you find out what the fittings are, please let me know the source. I looked at the APS water line install, and running the same way makes sense. I just am not able to find out what fittings bolt up to the IHC turbos. Thanks.

 

update...

i went to Techno today to check out my parts.

the Carillo Rods are A shaped (not H) and relatively light weight. They're guessing that they're probably only good up to 550rwhp they said its not for the heavy duty power gains. so thats okay..
the JE pistons look really nice. 9.5:1. hopefully not too bad for the low-end/mid-range power.

our estimated boost levels are 14.7-15.0 aka 1 bar and my turbos should have no real issues.. luckily i dont need to upgrade my turbo actuators or springs.. should be able to hold.

as for the waterlines, i have the specs somewhere.. Gurgen sent them to me, he made them already.

i'm at a loss. i dont know which clutch to get... im headed toward JWTflywheel and clutch. but i need something i can abuse. aka. clutch kick... so any suggestions would be ok.. NO TILTON. no way.

Tadashi tuned Vakamon (Monkey's) G35 coupe turbo with the stock ECU and no stand alones... so he was able to get 500+ rwhp reliable so i'm sold on this way for my engine management.. he got 500+ on larger Garrett turbos, 8.xx:1 compression and huge injectors... so i'll try to hit the same numbers on my setup. it will be interesting.... good thing theres a few spare engine parts lying around..

woo. im excited.

 

Cheston- when you find that waterline stuff, shoot it to me in an email. If you lost it, give me a holler and I will resend. You again are going where no PE has gone before in the US as far as I know - keep up informed.

BTW, I too am thinking of the PE radiator.

 

Patrick-

here's the email from MY PE guru.. aka GURGEN. hehe. i hope he doesnt mind me posting his email ..That guy is insane with his PE kit.. he's got it on his G35sedan.. automagic!! so i havent done anything he's already done and researched...

His email has info on his Air Filter relocation to the fender wells as well as the PE water line conversion...


**start**

First, before i forget, here is the link to all the McMaster part descr... for the intake ducts, sample of which I gave you (it's the 2" diamter variety..part # 5915T16. Get 4' even though they say 5' is minimum.

http://www.gurgen.com/G35Pics/Intake...uct%20desc.gif

Second... here are the part numbers of the fittings/hoses for the watercooling stuff. Everything is modeled after the APS setup: http://www.airpower[remove]systems.c...A_01-Water.pdf. The onyl assumption that I made is that the IHI's, like Garret's have the 14mmx1.5 thread in the exhaust housing for the water cooling lines.

1. The turbo-side adapters: ATPTurbo.com
You will need 2 of these (for the p-side turbo): http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FTG

...and 2 of these (banjos, for the d-side): http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FTG

McMaster has the latte ras well, I bet, this one comes with the washers, though, so it may be less trouble.

2. The hoses/hose ends from SummitRacing.com

Here are the parts:

hose: AER-FCC0610 x1
the hose ends: AER-FBM1122 x3, AER-FBM-1112 x2, AER-FBM1103 x1

here are the various adapters, also from Summit: SUM-220647

THe only thing that's iffy is how we connect the "end" of the watercooling lines to the heater hose. My search for a T that's got tow 3/4" barbs and a -6 male fitting are still unsuccessful. So i so far have a three-way (huge) -12 all-male tee, and we'll have to get a -12 to -6 reducer.

Oh yeah, the part that was hardest to find was the elusive 3/8" bspt to -6 adaper that goes on the side of the block. That was from mc-master, part #5097k35.

** end **

hope that helps? i'll let you know for sure on the last water line connection if u want to wait for me to do it first...


-Ches