APS Install Issues - Please help!
APS Install Issues - Please help!
History: Long sorry
After 5+ full days of install and NO dyno done yet, I get my car back. The CEL, Slip and VDC light are on. The ECU throws a crack senors error. (The UniChip piggyback has a crank angle senor plug that was installed). The power sucks although a dyno won't be done until friday but its no where near 360 wrhp. My car takes 3 times to start and it's REALLY loud. They took off my cats and fab. a Y pipe out of my EVO2.
Install Questions:
Anyone with an APS kit have any of these issues? Do any of U with APS connect the crank angle senor from the UniChip? Are your cars really loud? What about my starting issues?
Gauge Questions:
Does the PLX 500 come with Boost and everything you need? The ad says it has 3 gauges but the details show boost and others. Is there one gauge that has boost, egt and AF in a small format that can be downloaded to a laptop?
What about Zeitronix? The only thing I don't like about it is it needs a serial cable for laptop downloads and the pc interface doesn't look as nice as PLX.
I am trying to hide my guages...
Thanks
After 5+ full days of install and NO dyno done yet, I get my car back. The CEL, Slip and VDC light are on. The ECU throws a crack senors error. (The UniChip piggyback has a crank angle senor plug that was installed). The power sucks although a dyno won't be done until friday but its no where near 360 wrhp. My car takes 3 times to start and it's REALLY loud. They took off my cats and fab. a Y pipe out of my EVO2.
Install Questions:
Anyone with an APS kit have any of these issues? Do any of U with APS connect the crank angle senor from the UniChip? Are your cars really loud? What about my starting issues?
Gauge Questions:
Does the PLX 500 come with Boost and everything you need? The ad says it has 3 gauges but the details show boost and others. Is there one gauge that has boost, egt and AF in a small format that can be downloaded to a laptop?
What about Zeitronix? The only thing I don't like about it is it needs a serial cable for laptop downloads and the pc interface doesn't look as nice as PLX.
I am trying to hide my guages...
Thanks
go to 350zmotoring.com and pm your problems to the name APS. Hopefully you can get answers directly from APS. Who did the install in St. Pete? I would've gone to Japtrix and drove a couple of hours.....
Your car cranks forever and runs horrible and as a CEL because your crank position sensor is not setup correctly. When the crank trigger sensor signal is incorrect or missing, the car will crank and crank and crank and start up finally when it defaults to run on the cam triggers. the car is probably running some horrible crappy timing map now.
your car should not be loud at all. it should be quieter then ever as the turbos dampen the exhaust pulses. If your car is louder, you have an exhaust leak.
Your VDC and SLIP lights are on because the steering shaft joint was not correctly reinstalled, and the steering angle sensor is out of wack and not lining up correctly with the steering wheel sensor.
please be very careful with this car.
you might want to take it to a professional shop that knows 350z very well.
your car should not be loud at all. it should be quieter then ever as the turbos dampen the exhaust pulses. If your car is louder, you have an exhaust leak.
Your VDC and SLIP lights are on because the steering shaft joint was not correctly reinstalled, and the steering angle sensor is out of wack and not lining up correctly with the steering wheel sensor.
please be very careful with this car.
you might want to take it to a professional shop that knows 350z very well.
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
no our install shop is not "crappy". i have been working with nissans exclusvely for the last 7 yrs!
granted, this was my first turbo install on a G35, but i followed the directions to a "T". i used the CAS wire from the unichip and clipped it to the sensor in place of the factory plug as PER THE DIRECTIONS!
as far as the exhaust note, you couldnt be MORE incorrect! IF it had an exhaust leak, it wouldn’t sound like an exhaust note, but rather a horrible loud wisping/farting noise. With small turbos (i.e. the power enterprise kit of a turbo around the size of a T25-ish), yes the exhaust note would be quieter. But with a large turbo oulet housing such as this one, the flow (ability to create power) increases, at the expense of a louder exhaust. not to mention that the kit required the removal of BOTH catalytic converters and the turbo used a 4" downpipe!
Now as far as the VDC and SLIP lights, he explains this is due to an incorrect reinstallation the steering slip joint. This is an odd diagnosis being that the steering slip joint was NEVER disconnected and still sits at factory settings. In fact, none of the turbo kit interfered with the steering joint aside from a rubber fluid hose that had to be trimmed 1" for the sake of clearance.
considering i have done countless FULL buildups, have had my cars featured in the likes of Turbo magazine, JDM Options Videos, TV and cable, i think i possess the abilities to install a turbo kit. the only reason for the lenghty install time was due to the fact that i was following the 32 pages of instructions down to the last letter, making sure as to not compromise a customers time!
and as for letting the customer take the car in the condition it was, i had no choice bc the customer would not allow me to keep the car to check it out due to needing the car that night for personal reasons after understanding that it was not the best thing to do and that it was incomplete. i have 100% integrity with my work ethic and the product i produce
now, as far as the continuity of the CAS wire, that is something i will look into as that makes sense. the kit required the use of the unichip CAS harness, compelety doing away with the stock plug. i will check that on friday
granted, this was my first turbo install on a G35, but i followed the directions to a "T". i used the CAS wire from the unichip and clipped it to the sensor in place of the factory plug as PER THE DIRECTIONS!
as far as the exhaust note, you couldnt be MORE incorrect! IF it had an exhaust leak, it wouldn’t sound like an exhaust note, but rather a horrible loud wisping/farting noise. With small turbos (i.e. the power enterprise kit of a turbo around the size of a T25-ish), yes the exhaust note would be quieter. But with a large turbo oulet housing such as this one, the flow (ability to create power) increases, at the expense of a louder exhaust. not to mention that the kit required the removal of BOTH catalytic converters and the turbo used a 4" downpipe!
Now as far as the VDC and SLIP lights, he explains this is due to an incorrect reinstallation the steering slip joint. This is an odd diagnosis being that the steering slip joint was NEVER disconnected and still sits at factory settings. In fact, none of the turbo kit interfered with the steering joint aside from a rubber fluid hose that had to be trimmed 1" for the sake of clearance.
considering i have done countless FULL buildups, have had my cars featured in the likes of Turbo magazine, JDM Options Videos, TV and cable, i think i possess the abilities to install a turbo kit. the only reason for the lenghty install time was due to the fact that i was following the 32 pages of instructions down to the last letter, making sure as to not compromise a customers time!
and as for letting the customer take the car in the condition it was, i had no choice bc the customer would not allow me to keep the car to check it out due to needing the car that night for personal reasons after understanding that it was not the best thing to do and that it was incomplete. i have 100% integrity with my work ethic and the product i produce
now, as far as the continuity of the CAS wire, that is something i will look into as that makes sense. the kit required the use of the unichip CAS harness, compelety doing away with the stock plug. i will check that on friday
Last edited by taylor_durdan; Sep 28, 2005 at 12:51 PM.
As I stated in my earlier post... I took the car back with plans on returning later. They told me not to get on it but since we (all) were at a loss for what to do next. I came here looking for suggestions not to bash my install company. Although my car needs to be fixed I have confidence in ZFever just looking for help from those who know.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
jack, i just spoke with mike next door and he has a very interesting post from another msg board reguarding this kit. once i get his email, i will post the link here. apparently, he too, is having issues with his reguarding boost issues. very interesting read. apparently he is making 9psi by 4000rpm, and dropping to 4psi by redline. and APS has been giving him the extreme runaround
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=467122
Let me start of by saying this is on a G35 not a RX7 but that I know this is one of the only places I can get some decent opinions on this and its a turbo problem so the engine isnt really all that realitive. Also I really dont have any idea what turbo it is because you cant really see it good when its in the car....its supposed to be a GT35R but with "custom" compressor and turbine housings that APS made (its an APS kit). They wont release any kind of specs at all except that its ball bearing. This is a internally wg kit.
Here is the problem...and its the same with a electronic or manual boost controller we have tried both. The boost will steadily climb then when you hit around 4000-4500rpms it starts to drop. If I turn up the controller the boost will go up but it always starts to fall on its face around 4500ish and had droped in half by redline. We had tested the pressure side and it seemed like it was holding pressure.
Here is where it starts to get weird...
Last night we disconnected the wg actuator and wired the flapper closed, it would barely even build boost at all, I got up to about 3psi by redline and that was it didnt even get into boost till probably 5000 rpms. That is with the wg wired closed....basically NO wg at all....we also capped the bov just to make sure it wasnt leaking or something....still the same. At that point I'm thinking damn the turbine side must just be choking the hell out of the engine.
Soooo, we go a head and leave the wg wide open flapping in the breeze, most cars can build boost with it like that so I'm thinking hell if the turbine side is choking from back pressure she wouldnt have any problem building some boost with the wg wide open. It will be laggy but it should make some boost. HELLLL NO....the boost was basically exactly the same no matter if the wg was wide open or wired closed. It wouldnt get into boost till about 5000rpms and it would gradually go from 0psi at 5K up to about 3.5psi at redline 6500ish.
At this point I'm thinking, alright it has to be a pessure side leak but there are only 3 connections it could be and they are all very tight and making a good seal. The bov has been capped this entire time so thats not the leak. The only thing could either be the IC has a leak or something is up with the turbo.
Here is the other twist. So we get back home and he hooks his actuator back up with my manual boost controller....bam back to how it was before where it will actually build boost, its much more responsive and builds boost better than with the wg wires shut BUT it still starts gradually dropping its boost to where its lost half of it by redline. Its going up to 9psi by 4000 and starts dropping down to about 4psi by redline.
Alright....anyone want to make some comments? I think we are fixing to pull the turbo off, take it to BNR and have Brian inspect it. Might also pull the IC and have it inspected/pressure tested. Maybe its just a bad turbine AR selection, I have no idea what size AR or even what turbin wheel is in this turbo since APS wont say anything.
Comments? Questions? Anyone want to point out something I might be overlooking? Give me some ideas? lol
Oh yea, one last note...they sold about 25 or so of these kits in a initial group buy and everyones is doing this. APS is making up BS excuses saying the kit was designed like that...we all know this is total bull ****. They marketed the kit as building 9psi right out of the box and even show a boost graph hitting 9psi by around 2500 and holding it to redline. I think they changed some turbo specs after thier demo car without testing it, screwed up, and dont want everyone to know it. Thier demo/test car has pics of the turbo with Garrett stamped into the compressor housing...the kits dont. I think maybe they changed some turbo specs after designing the kit and its not working the way they thought it would and they dont want to fix it since they sold the kits cheap in a group buy. We shall see!!! And yea, they dont want to help anyone or even talk to anyone about this problem anymore. This official stance it is was designed to do that to be safer for the engine.....****ing liars. OK...rant off....this really frustrates me.
Can someone give me some ideas.
Stephen
Let me start of by saying this is on a G35 not a RX7 but that I know this is one of the only places I can get some decent opinions on this and its a turbo problem so the engine isnt really all that realitive. Also I really dont have any idea what turbo it is because you cant really see it good when its in the car....its supposed to be a GT35R but with "custom" compressor and turbine housings that APS made (its an APS kit). They wont release any kind of specs at all except that its ball bearing. This is a internally wg kit.
Here is the problem...and its the same with a electronic or manual boost controller we have tried both. The boost will steadily climb then when you hit around 4000-4500rpms it starts to drop. If I turn up the controller the boost will go up but it always starts to fall on its face around 4500ish and had droped in half by redline. We had tested the pressure side and it seemed like it was holding pressure.
Here is where it starts to get weird...
Last night we disconnected the wg actuator and wired the flapper closed, it would barely even build boost at all, I got up to about 3psi by redline and that was it didnt even get into boost till probably 5000 rpms. That is with the wg wired closed....basically NO wg at all....we also capped the bov just to make sure it wasnt leaking or something....still the same. At that point I'm thinking damn the turbine side must just be choking the hell out of the engine.
Soooo, we go a head and leave the wg wide open flapping in the breeze, most cars can build boost with it like that so I'm thinking hell if the turbine side is choking from back pressure she wouldnt have any problem building some boost with the wg wide open. It will be laggy but it should make some boost. HELLLL NO....the boost was basically exactly the same no matter if the wg was wide open or wired closed. It wouldnt get into boost till about 5000rpms and it would gradually go from 0psi at 5K up to about 3.5psi at redline 6500ish.
At this point I'm thinking, alright it has to be a pessure side leak but there are only 3 connections it could be and they are all very tight and making a good seal. The bov has been capped this entire time so thats not the leak. The only thing could either be the IC has a leak or something is up with the turbo.
Here is the other twist. So we get back home and he hooks his actuator back up with my manual boost controller....bam back to how it was before where it will actually build boost, its much more responsive and builds boost better than with the wg wires shut BUT it still starts gradually dropping its boost to where its lost half of it by redline. Its going up to 9psi by 4000 and starts dropping down to about 4psi by redline.
Alright....anyone want to make some comments? I think we are fixing to pull the turbo off, take it to BNR and have Brian inspect it. Might also pull the IC and have it inspected/pressure tested. Maybe its just a bad turbine AR selection, I have no idea what size AR or even what turbin wheel is in this turbo since APS wont say anything.
Comments? Questions? Anyone want to point out something I might be overlooking? Give me some ideas? lol
Oh yea, one last note...they sold about 25 or so of these kits in a initial group buy and everyones is doing this. APS is making up BS excuses saying the kit was designed like that...we all know this is total bull ****. They marketed the kit as building 9psi right out of the box and even show a boost graph hitting 9psi by around 2500 and holding it to redline. I think they changed some turbo specs after thier demo car without testing it, screwed up, and dont want everyone to know it. Thier demo/test car has pics of the turbo with Garrett stamped into the compressor housing...the kits dont. I think maybe they changed some turbo specs after designing the kit and its not working the way they thought it would and they dont want to fix it since they sold the kits cheap in a group buy. We shall see!!! And yea, they dont want to help anyone or even talk to anyone about this problem anymore. This official stance it is was designed to do that to be safer for the engine.....****ing liars. OK...rant off....this really frustrates me.
Can someone give me some ideas.
Stephen
taylor: sorry to have put you in such a defensive position... but no one ever said it was the SINGLE turbo kit. Everything I had posted was related to the TWIN kit, which is what I, and I think most people, default to, when APS KIT is said... as the twin kit is more common and has been out longer.
as for diagnostics of your single kit, I have no idea... never installed the single kit.
as for diagnostics of your single kit, I have no idea... never installed the single kit.
Originally Posted by taylor_durdan
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
i dont mean to be on the defensive so much, but i have an excellent internet prescence and just like to keep my reputation high. as far as these problems, i am at my wits end. i am going to play with it on friday when we dyno it. it doesnt help that there isnt a boost gauge yet on the car, so i will be temporarily installing one for the dyno runs to verify. as far as the CAS wiring is concerned, i will continuity test each wire to double check them. i REALLY want this car to run right as i DO NOT like having cars ive worked on running like crap. plus this dude is ultra cool and i know he wants this car to be as quick as promised.