I assumed this was the best forum to ask this question... since several of you guys with forced induction have a radiator upgrade. This question goes out to all you shops and do-it-your-selfers

Do I need to disconnect the A/C condensor and A/C lines and remove the front clip to swap out radiators?...or, can i leave the A/C system intact (really don't want to empty it and have to refill it) and still have access to removing and re-installing a new radiator?

also, i understand some modifications need to be performed to get the koyo radiator to fit..please explain, if anybody has a write up on this or helpful hints, lists of do's and do nots...would be very helpful!!!

Thanks in advance guys...

 

Todd put in a call to Flex-A-Lite. With your bult motor beast maybe they could send you a pototype version of the fan setup they are working on for our cars. Its worth a shot ayways. And if they do you can gurantee they will flow more then the stock fans

 

I thought he asked about a radiatior upgrade...not cooling fans.

 

A/C condensor is in front of the radiator.....so no it does not have to come out. Radiator can be removed from the top or bottom with a little "negotiation"

 

yes, well aware that the ac condensor is in front of the radiator, i just have no experience in seperating the components inside the plastic assembly...when i pulled my motor, i disconnected the ac condensor and took off the entire front clip in one piece (included ac condensor, radiaitor, and fans)...so i can leave all of that intact and the radiator comes right out? i imagine it is bolted to the plastic assembly..so do the fans need to be removed, i would assume..also, if u know, what modification needs to be made to the fan shroud?

thx

 

I'v seen the Koyo used in both Zs and in Gs, (mine with an APS TT).
To use the OEM fans the lower OEM fan bracket useauly needs to be shaved a little to allow clearance for the FMIC plumbing on the passenger side.
The OEM fans flow plenty even on a built LB and >15psi of boost.
The Z install is a little easier since the mounts on the Koyo are already fine, ;however, on a a G , the top Koyo mounts need to be shifted over(cut off and re-welded , any good radiator shop can do this.
Also on a G the upper shroud (F-glass) needs to be nothced a little to clear the new position of the Koyo filler snout (now on the drivers isde). The OEM G has it on the passenger side.

 

ok...so has anybody posted a write up on step by step for the z?... i assume the fan come out, then the radiator can be pulled out..with the entire front clip/bumper still intact?..or does the bumper need to come off for this job?

 

Sorry.....should have clarified....Fans unbolt off the radiator itself....then the radiator unbolts from the top and bottom supports for removal. Clip stays on.

 

so bumper does not need to come off? (sorry, i need this stuff spelled out)

 

No....bumper can stay on. All the parts should come out through the space between the rad support and the motor...through the bottom is a little easier if I remember correctly.

 

I will ask my guy who installed my radiator and thermostat. He said there was no extra fabracation required.

 

I know he did....but a lot of people have had fitment problems with the Koyo radiator and stock fans due to piping from the turbo kits. I made the suggestion for that reason. Sorry if it doens't meet your approval standards of a good answer.

 

The Koyo won't work with a Vortech, tried it today. Going back to stock radiator

 

Are you saying that he should get upgraded fans that are smaller than stock, so they don't interfere with turbo charge piping? If so..that makes a lot more sense...but your first post just looked like you were recommending that he just replace the fans instead of the radiator which would be retarded because the cooling issue on a turbo Z isn't while sitting at idle...it's while moving and making lots of power at which time cooling fans are useless.

 

Well I guess thats what I get for assuming everyone knew that the Koyo radiator caused fitment issues with the turbo kit piping. However even the smaller Slim Line Flex-A-Lite fans flow better then the stock ones.

 

Who said I didn't know that? I said it looked like you were recommending just a fan upgrade...

 

FYI, Koyo has 2 versions of their racing radiator. Here are the sizes along with the OEM size.

OEM Core: 15 3/4 by 28 11/26 by 5/8
Top/bom Header: 1 7/8 / 1 7/8 by 29 13/16

R-core, Racing Core 1: 15 3/4 x 28 3/4 by 2 1/16
Top/btm Header: 2 3/8 x 2/38 by 29 13/16

V-core, Racing Core 2: 15 3/4 x 28 3/4 by 1 7/16
Top/btm Header: 1 11/16 x 1 11/16 by 29 13/16

 

I used the factory service manual when I installed my Koyo. This worked great except for three items:

1. I had to cut-down the tabs where the AC condensor rests on the new radiator. They protruded too far towards the vehicle front and prevented the radiator seating correctly in the radiator support. A hacksaw and file solved this.

2. When reinstalling the fan assy, the factory top mounting bolts were too long for the Koyo. Shorter bolts are needed for this.

3. The driver side fan blade would just barely hit the shroud support. A trimming with Mr. Boxcutter did the trick.

Good luck. PM me if you need the pertinent service manual pages.

 

Todd, your Koyo is on the way!

 

Not to put down the koyo, but those of you that are looking to replace your radiator check out the PE unit. It is a direct drop in and no modification needed unless you own a G. Even then it is just relocating the top mounting brackets. It is a little bit more expensive, but doesn't have to be jigga'd in, like some have had to do with the koyo. I got mine from Sharif@Forged.