Well I plan to make the Z, a fast car but not a 500whp or more I atleast want 400hp that seems about right so I plan to get a Greddy TT kit + intercoooler and Evo2 exhaust System and Greddy Type RS BOV So here is where you guys come in handy name me other parts that might help me out to atleast get 400hp

 

Bump!

 

to run that kit safely you will need a walboro fuel pump, timing and map pressure sensor harness, a fuel return system, and a good shop to install and tune. Some people will say you don't need the fuel system for that power level, but better safe than sorry. It will be less expensive to install the fuel system the with the initial install, because if you don't buy it and later on decided to install it, you will have to pay for a second tune.

As far as for the greddy evo, I would not get that exhaust. It works well for N/A, but for FI it is very restrictive. Although it would work for 400whp, why put on an exhaust that doesn't flow well. I would go with the HKS or APS true dual 2.5". The HKS is on back order, so depending on when you are going to do the install you might have to go with the APS. The only thing I don't like about the APS exhaust is that it looks OEM.

Contact Sharif www.forgedinternals.com he has all the part listed as well as the turbo kit at great price and with awesome customer service.

 

Greddy TT with FMIC, Walbro Fuel Pump, Jim Wolf Clutch & Flywheel, E-Manage Timing Harness, E-Manage MAP sensor w/harness, Autosport Wiring Harness, and a Return Fuel System.

Around $8500 for all that, regardless of where you buy it. It will make about 410rwhp thru stock exhaust and cats, or about 450rwhp thru a dual 2.25" or larger exhaust.

Your best bet is to contact Rob at ZcarGarage since your on the west coast, and he can just set you up with an APS kit for about the same money... looks like your several hour drive from him, but its worth it for the several several years of experience building Z's that he has, and he is an APS dealer so he can tune the kit... APS kit is like $7400 or so and if 400rwhp-500rwhp is your goal and your gonna keep the engine stock, its probably the better kit for you.

 

Not being contradictory, but where did you get those prices? Here are the prices most anyone can get on the internet.

Greddy TT w/FMIC $5500 shipped
Fuel return and fuel pump $1100 shipped
Both harness $200 shipped
JWT clutch and flywheel $800 shipped
-------------------------------------------
$7600


The example above you gave for the APS of $7400 does not include the JWT clutch and flywheel you recommend for use with the Greddy kit.

 

I didnt get them anywhere, I was just tossing them out there. Whos the fool whoring out greddy TT with FMIC for $5500 shipped as standard retail? What a waste of time.

Either way, the APS kit comes with a more efficient intercooler, water cooled turbos, a blow off valve, enough fuel for almost 500hp, boost controller, etc. in the end, you save money even if someone really does sell the greddy at 5500 shipped...a nd the APS kit should be more long term reliable for sure.

For the guys running stock engines below 500hp, its the clear decision for an experienced tuner... unless the customer doesnt have access to an APS dealer that they like or trust. No harm either way.

The guy is in Cali, so I reffered him to where he is better off... Rob at ZCar is extremely experienced with buildings cars, much more then a years experience (like the backyard shop he will end up with if he mail orders a kit), and he is not on the other side of the continent from the guy... he is much closer and it would be a wiser choice for him to work with.

 

Just thought you might want to add the cost of a boost controller and tuning...

 

Well said and good point.

 

Right on... I refer people to Shariff if they are over there... but West Coast guys I refer to Rob because he seems to know exactly what hes doing! Midwest guys I refer to me!!! Sometimes its more important as to whats in the customers best interest, then it is to just get the sale.

 

Your philosophy is top notch! Great to have guys like you around.

 

+1......had my EVO2 modified to reduce back pressure and pretty much the same mods as Gman2004 and phunk recommend. Soon to find out my HP numbers. If you have not already ordered the EVO2, perhaps opt for the HKS or APS. Greddy does plan to release an "EVO TT" with 70mm piping but that could be months.

Good luck!

 

Thanks, but just to clear things up I wanted to say that I am not pro APS or pro Greddy... IMHO its always very application specific and always depends on the goals and the budget. Each kit has its place... but for the guy willing to put down all the money at once and wants a daily driver 400rwhp completed done and tuned in one install session, I think the APS is calling your name. Even what I say here only applies to those who definatly want TWIN turbo, cause you can single turbo or supercharge your way to 400rwhp very easily also.

-Charles

 

Thats all you really need... Just get a great tuner, Those kits out of the box if tuned right have massive potential. You might want to upgrade to the EU. Plus you could go with a plenum and no cats.. you will be well over 400rwhp and rwtq!

 

While we are on this topic? does anybody know what kind of BOV is this?

http://videos.streetfire.net/Player....C490&kw=10&p=1

 

Either method would work. And I agree that Rob is the best guy in the Bay Area to do the install and tune.

Just remember that the APS kit, out of the box, is really about 350-370whp...based on my experience. Since rob can retune the Unichip, he can probably get more out of it, but that also costs you.

At the end of the day, both kits are going to comparably priced, when you factor tuning, and other extras that will be needed.

Has anyone besides me noticed that the APS turbos dont spool up any faster than the Greddy's...and the Greddy's tend to product more trq and boost at lower RPM's. We overlayed some Greddy vs. APS dynos (both cars with large free flowing exhuasts)...I was pretty suprised because I figured the APS BB turbos would spool up much faster. That was not my finding...both on the dyno and the street.

 

its not just you, its very well known in the tuning society that a ball bearing turbo DOES NOT SPOOL ANY FASTER.

Heres why...

Did you know that R&D was done by engine manufacturers to do roller bearings for your main journals? Why did they drop it? Ill tell you why, cause its just a gimmick. Think about it logically, when the engine is actually running and there is oil pressure, there is ZERO friction between the crankshaft and the bearings. Your crank floats on a layer of oil pressure. How is a ball bearing going to provide less friction than THAT??

Same goes with your turbos. Everyone says "WOW my ball bearing turbo spins soooo freely"... OK, compared to a non ball bearing turbo when the engine is OFF, thats true... because the non ball bearing turbo uses a layer of oil as well. Without the engine running, there is no oil pressure, and no layer of oil for the shaft to float on, therefore it does not spin as freely... so the ball bearing guys can continue to brag on about how their turbos spin for 60 seconds after they shut off their car (great idea right, lets have the turbos spinning while there is no oil pressure)... while those who really know, understand there is nothing more reliable then reduced complication and less moving parts, and having your bearings float on a layer of oil is the best way to do it. Ball Bearing is the turbocharger tech equivalent to that turbonator intake crap. stack it up with the whistle tips. at least it doesnt hurt anything.

 

Well my Signiture is my opinion

Good Luck!

 

Phunk, I agree completely. But the BB turbo camp..Garrett, APS....etc...with throw lots of scientific data, and nice charts and graphs that illustrate that BB's spool faster. I guess I figured that the APS turbos would show some improvement....but I didnt see anything at all.

Still a great kit....I like both kits..just depends on the customers goals and desires with their car.

 

if you laid the graph of the same identical turbo with a bb center section and without it, you'll find the spool is quicker. Problem is, few turbos are offered this way (some of the IHI's for Subaru's are). The problem is, you are comparing turbos with totally different A/R's on comressor and exhaust sides, totally different IC cores, totally different piping, totally different actuators, totally different wheels inside....

so yes, you are comparing 2 turbos....but that's about it

 

Z1: Agreed, they never are of identical specs... however if you compare 2 turbos based on a very close estimate of their potential HP, you will find what I have.