Hey guys. I'm about to crossover to the dark side as you can see by my sig. The car only has just under 2000miles on it. I've searched and read a lot of posts about how much rwhp would be produced on stock boost. But there are too many variations. Some of you may tell me to just do it and dyno it. But because i will be the first one doing this with a shop that Peter@APS recommended me to go to (new APS authorized dealer in Vancouver Canada), I just need a heads up. The parts are listed in my sig. So mainly the power producers will be the following:

1. APS TT (stock boost on stock block)
2. SFR 3" HKS Carbon Ti custom true dual exhaust.

Note: I have a rev-up engine.

So what numbers should I be expecting? Just to have a heads up as a goal to tune to? thanks for any advice.

 

Test pipes will make a differ3nce and I didn't see it on your list. With test pipes and dual I would expect a tuned APS to be in the 420-430 rwhp range on a dynojet (for results not tuning)

 

with a rev-up.. it could be even more than that at stock boost.. especially mated with test pipes as westpak said and the 3" dual exhaust

there are some people with a 03-04 model with cams that run 440-460whp range on stock boost. The rev-up engine's cams aren't as aggressive but they aren't too far off either.. So I'd expect to be around the same range with 3" dual exhaust.

 

You may want to return that oil pressure guage for an EGT if possible.

 

The 3" true dual is going to skew any numbers you might expect. I didn't expect nearly 424 rwhp at 7.5-8.0psi on my greddy kit. The dual 3" exhaust really frees up the power. Can't wait to see how it helps on yours

 

Check my sig.

 

But it sounds like your boost isn't stock? 9psi? I thought 8 was stock on APS ?

 

thanx guys. Great help as always. I don't have test pipes yet as I'm gonna be moving soon to Cali...and hoping that the emissions will pass first for my new car insurance before I put them on. Hope they don't open my hood *crosses fingers*.

I'm aiming for 400 to 420 rwhp for now...hopefully it's realistic.

 

Are you sure you can pass emission with the APS in Cali?
IMO, better off take a stock car to cali, pass the emission, then work on the APS afterwards. Better quality shops around in Cali and you don't have to risk to get it installed at the "APS recommanded" shop that prolly haven't done any similar setup installs before. Just a thought man.

Also keep in mind the altitude of Vancouver and Cali may be different, as well as ambient temp. and all other stuffs. Geographic variations also makes a difference.

Good luck man.

 

thanx homiusang. But I'm moving to Cali in Jan, and I'm going to send my car to Houston to SGP to build my block for 500 - 600rwhp in March...so it will be retuned.

For personal financial reasons...if I am to go TT, I would have to do it now.

thanks for all your suggestions tho. Appreciate your input.

 

Out of the box, your whp is going to be about 360-380whp, depending if you APS kit looses boost as redline approaches, like many I have seen, and one that I have tuned.

With a retune, 400-420 should be achievable easily.

 

sweet thanx Sharif! From what I know my car will run rich without a tune. Hopefully I can get it tuned to about 12:1.....or 13:1... is that too lean?

 

i think ive found a way to solve my boost issues near redline. i think mine was because the 4 bolt flange that is on the crossover pipe is a PITA to get one bolt on. i noticed exhaust **** on my firewall so i suspected that under idle rpms, gases werent leaking, but once you start raising the revs and the egts rise and more gases start flying thru there, and backing up in the turbo, that flange was separating and causing a big exhaust leak before the turbo. i tightened it and it got better but now its here again.

i bought a 2" vband clamp that im getting welded there in the flanges place. hope that helps my problems since ive done everything else possible.

 

Good suggestion..we did the install on this particular car, and the downpipes and manifolds were all nice and tight...checked for leaks twice.

My firm belief, is theat the boost actuators on the APS turbos are to blame. Those things are incredibly weakly sprung.

 

mine wasnt leaking either at idle, it wasnt happening until under WOT that it was leaking.

see i keep saying that about the actuators also, but everybody keeps saying no it isnt the problem, everytime i plan on buying a stronger one i always change my mind because id hate to buy one and that not be the problem.

i have 2 choices. the ForgeMotorsports version for 160, or the one from TQFreaks which is the upgraded one for the TT kit, minimum 10psi boost pressure, but i dont know if that will be safe for me, i hit 12-13psi all the time now, but i dont hold it till redline, thats probably why my motor is still in one piece.

 

I would upgrade the actuators for sure, or you are going to watch your boost drop as you approach redline.

 

well all sounds great, but im sorry to say that you will more than likely not pass smog in cali as i am in cali and have worked at smog shops in the past, they will try to get you for anything unless you know the right people or the right shop to go to.

check ur pm's

 

That's too lean... 11.5-11.7:1 is what I shoot for on 93 pump on my 10:1 comp motor. Some people don't have qualms about running low 12 AFRs on pump but I personally don't think the extra 5hp is worth the increased risk.

420-440whp seems to be the typical number from a tuned 9psi APS setup. If you consider stock boost to be 8psi then just subtract about 20hp from that figure and you have your ballpark answer. It's just an estimate anyhow so there's really no use splitting hairs, it's in that ballpark.

 

Actually, that is too lean for pump gas FI. Your tuner should shoot for roughly 11.5:1 to 11.0:1, assuming you are running pump 93 octane fuel.

 

Sharif, how dare you! You know very well that it was engineered purposely like that!!!