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HELP!! ATS Dual Carbon clutch...

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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:52 PM
  #21  
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i have been thinking of trying a different clutch lately also. running the semi street tilton now. the problem i have is trying to keep the motor from stalling or spinning the tires. it just revs so fast, the smallest of inputs shoots the rpm's through the roof. i thought i had it down pretty good, then i was hung over driving home sun morn and i had problems concentrating, and found it a ***** to drive, lol.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 09:49 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by nitrouz
Hey guys. I need help in learning how to DRIVE using the ATS dual carbon. I've been driving it for a couple days now, and it still jerks off the line. I've already searched and didn't find too many threads on this, so if anyone could answer my questions, it would be greatly appreciated.

1. Any way to get rid of the chattering at low rpms? I don't wanna have to drive in boost every single time I hop into the car.

2. How the hell do I launch this thing smoothly??? I'm used to riding my clutch at takeoff probably to smoothen the normal launches at the light. I find that I have to rev really high (around 3500 - 4000rpms) to be able to ride the ATS a bit and go smoothly, but once it starts moving and I disengage the clutch, the whole car jerks forward.

3. Drove around 150 miles with the clutch already. Is there a break in time of 200 miles that I saw in another thread? What should I notice after it breaks in?

Thanks...any help would be greatly appreciated!
What compound do you have? The R, standard, or soft?

The R compound is a pain in the @ss. If you slip the R compound clutch engaging the trans you will heat it up, and it will chattter like a mother.

Don't slip it at all costs. Driving it takes a little getting used to. Once it's broken in, and you have the feel for it.... no problem.

Respect
JET
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 06:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by nitrouz
Thanks for the informative help everyone. Mine doesn't make any noise at all at idle...all I can hear is my SFR HKS Ti true duals purring. But when I try to slip it during launches, it vibrates A LOT and the car jerks sometimes...got a little better today though.

DBZ33: I have a TT.

Sharif: I'm gonna try launching at lower rpms more tomorrow. Thanks for the advice. I'll see what happens. I have the dual carbon with 1350kg p.p.

I agree with that. The ATS's are near silent at idle with the clutch pedal released. The 1350kg is certainly going to be a little bit harder to launch cleanly, but well worth it, IMHO, due to the very high trq holding capacity of the heavier pressure plate.

Check back with us on 2 weeks, and I bet you will love the clutch, after its had at least 500miles of break-in on it.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 06:41 AM
  #24  
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haha sure we'll see about that sharif.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MEGA_BB6_Turbo
ahh i accidentaly replied to the older clutch post.....but to sentry65 you quoted in the other post "my idle is around 1500rpms and that gets rid of the cement truck sound at idle, but there is no solution for getting rid of the loud vibration sound at 2500-3000 or less if you're in too high of a gear. You'll just have to train yourself to be in a lower gear to keep the rpms high"

Are there any cons to setting your idle that high just to get rid of the noise? Also what's this loud vibration that you mention in 2500-3000 in higher gears? Don't you get the same type of vbration in high gears and low rpms in stock clutches also?

the noise i'm talking about at around 2500 or less is the standard vibration noise all aftermarket clutches make. No way to get rid of that. Just stay in the optimal gear to keep the rpm's above 2500 or so and you're fine. Or don't give it a lot of gas. That's what does it really if you're in too high of a gear below 2500 rpms.

My idle is actually around 1300. It's around 1400-1500 with the AC on I think - i dunno, depends on the outside temp it seems.

The increased idle for me has worked out great. The downsides are that you burn more gas at idle and you wear the engine out ever so slightly more at 1300rpms instead of 650 or whatever stock is. I like it with driving with aftermarket clutches cause it gives you more headroom for stalling. I can let the car kinda coast forward at the idle rpm speed and brake down to the stall rpm (which in my car is around 800 cause I have JWT cams)
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:53 AM
  #26  
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hey would anyone know how the 1350kg presure plate pedal stiffness compares to the tilton? Is it about the same? The tilton seems to be a bit stiffer than stock and I really like that because it gives me more control
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:40 PM
  #27  
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I also had a lot of problems at first. It was really hard to launch, and my wife hated it. After about 1000 miles, is smoothed out a lot, enough so that it is now acceptable. But you still need some ketting used to...

Good luck!
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by overZealous1
i have been thinking of trying a different clutch lately also. running the semi street tilton now. the problem i have is trying to keep the motor from stalling or spinning the tires. it just revs so fast, the smallest of inputs shoots the rpm's through the roof. i thought i had it down pretty good, then i was hung over driving home sun morn and i had problems concentrating, and found it a ***** to drive, lol.

Thats so very odd....I had the Tilton RALLY in.....hated it hard to drive(shudder , Jerking) In Georgia BTW.....Bought the STREET and installed it easy to drive....Got a Turbo Kit when I moved to HAWAII.....grabbed the RALLY that was sitting in a box for a year put it back in and its easy to drive now....really easy....
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 08:42 AM
  #29  
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yeah I swear if you can drive a tilton clutch smoothly and do it everyday, anything feels like a piece of cake to drive
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