rebuilding blown motor question
All right, a few months ago I blew my motor that had a turbonetics turbo, and I have sent my Z off to the guys at SGP to rebuild the motor. Here is my question; the list below is the items that I am having done to the car to make sure that this does not happen again. What I want to know is for the guys that have gone through this already is there anything that I have left out. I am not sure if I am going to sleeve the motor or not (looking for 500-550 HP.) I know that I will need to set up an account for tires and clutches, but I want to make sure that I have not missed anything big (or small).
Thoughts please
Upgraded Long Block #3: Good up to 850 Rwhp
Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
*Ceramic coating on Piston skirts and tops
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
*JWT Upgraded Cams
*JWT HD Valve Springs
5 angle valve job
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set
New Valve stem seals
New Nissan Head gaskets
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Cam seals
Also,
JWT 350Z L/W Flywheel
RPS Max Street Clutch – 300zxTT
350Z Koyo Aluminum Radiator
350Z Oil Pan Spacer
Blitz SBC I Color Boost Controller
Emanage Ultimate
750cc High Impedence Injectors
SGP Racing Full Fuel return system (Lines, Fitting, Rails and Reg.)
Hotchkis Sway Bars
Hawk Brake Pads
Sorry for the long post.
Thoughts please
Upgraded Long Block #3: Good up to 850 Rwhp
Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
*Ceramic coating on Piston skirts and tops
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
Heads oil passages cleaned
Heads redecked
Ported exhaust and intake runners
*JWT Upgraded Cams
*JWT HD Valve Springs
5 angle valve job
Valve Stem Heights set
Cold Clearance set
New Valve stem seals
New Nissan Head gaskets
New Nissan Oil Pump
New Nissan Cam seals
Also,
JWT 350Z L/W Flywheel
RPS Max Street Clutch – 300zxTT
350Z Koyo Aluminum Radiator
350Z Oil Pan Spacer
Blitz SBC I Color Boost Controller
Emanage Ultimate
750cc High Impedence Injectors
SGP Racing Full Fuel return system (Lines, Fitting, Rails and Reg.)
Hotchkis Sway Bars
Hawk Brake Pads
Sorry for the long post.
If you are going to go that far spend another $2k and get the block sleeved by darton. Trust me, if you are going that far then going to a closed deck setup is worth every penny.
Originally Posted by craigo'sznprgrs
What happened to your motor, too high boost or what? I know that it is off topic, but curious?
Not sure what happened to the motor, it might have been a boost spike or the motor just could not handle the power. I bought the car used with 17,000 miles on it, so who knows what the other owner did to the car. When SGP pulled the motor they said that I broke the rods in cylinders 2 and 6, then the pistons turned and the valve bent. I now have holes on both sides of the block from when the rods went. The funny thing is I was running a 7 pound spring on the waste gate, not the 9 pound spring that came in the kit.
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The issue that I am having with adding sleeves to the motor is that the sleeves are $1000, but the machine work is another $1700. Maybe I am thinking about this wrong, but I can get a new block if need be for a whole lot less. Will the sleeves make that much of a difference?
Originally Posted by bverschage
The issue that I am having with adding sleeves to the motor is that the sleeves are $1000, but the machine work is another $1700. Maybe I am thinking about this wrong, but I can get a new block if need be for a whole lot less. Will the sleeves make that much of a difference?
Originally Posted by bverschage
Not sure what happened to the motor, it might have been a boost spike or the motor just could not handle the power. I bought the car used with 17,000 miles on it, so who knows what the other owner did to the car. When SGP pulled the motor they said that I broke the rods in cylinders 2 and 6, then the pistons turned and the valve bent. I now have holes on both sides of the block from when the rods went. The funny thing is I was running a 7 pound spring on the waste gate, not the 9 pound spring that came in the kit.
Oh and Sleeve the block...It would suck to go that far to blow up a built motor.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Sounds like you spun and seized the rod end bearings and caused your rods to crack in half.How often did you check/Change your oil?
Oh and Sleeve the block...It would suck to go that far to blow up a built motor.
Oh and Sleeve the block...It would suck to go that far to blow up a built motor.
Darton will only charge you around $1000 to do the machining and will give you a warrantee for one year against leaks. Yes the sleeves make that much of a difference.
Originally Posted by bverschage
The issue that I am having with adding sleeves to the motor is that the sleeves are $1000, but the machine work is another $1700. Maybe I am thinking about this wrong, but I can get a new block if need be for a whole lot less. Will the sleeves make that much of a difference?
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I believe the Darton sleeves cost about 1,200 and having Darton install them is another 1,000.
The question is do you really need that for 550rwhp? From what I have seen there are a few people out there running without it, BUT I think most people are only waiting until they can put the MID sleeves in at a later date. If you can afford it, I agree with MRC, it would suck to take the chance after you have already put so much into the engine rebuild.
That is what I am doing, once I started down the road of rebuilding, I figured I might as well go all the way… anything to limit catastrophic damage down the road….
The question is do you really need that for 550rwhp? From what I have seen there are a few people out there running without it, BUT I think most people are only waiting until they can put the MID sleeves in at a later date. If you can afford it, I agree with MRC, it would suck to take the chance after you have already put so much into the engine rebuild.
That is what I am doing, once I started down the road of rebuilding, I figured I might as well go all the way… anything to limit catastrophic damage down the road….
$1050 from our good friend Sharif at Forged Internals. Then another $1000 for install. He even stocks the Cosworth headgaskets in different sizes.
http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1
http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1
i am pretty sure that i am going to do the sleeves, it's just that much more money i have to spend.
in the end the car better rock!
how many Z 0r G guys are running with fully built motors?
in the end the car better rock!
how many Z 0r G guys are running with fully built motors?
Originally Posted by failsafe306
The question is, are you planning on upgrading the turbo so it can even get you to the hp level where sleeves are required? That would be one big turbo with tons of lag...
Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
I think you'd be surprised. A T66 Ball bearing with a T04 P trim wheel would actually spool up pretty close to his current one...
Originally Posted by failsafe306
Would it fit? Like, just drop in, or would you have to move some things around? I've never seen a TN up close so I have no idea how much room there is in that area.


