Yea, no rattle here with anything hitting the frame. The only thing I ever hear is my damn exhaust (passenger w/g-dp adapter) leak. Stupid squirrel.

 

i think the stillen engine damper will help stop this.................it prevents th motor from moving

 

Oh yeah, and about the check engine light...my car did this for a while because of the testpipes i believe (never really bothered me), then one day it all of a sudden didn't come on again. That was probably 6-9 months ago.

I did do alot of research on stuff you can do to fix the SES light coming on...of all the ways I think I like the 02 Simulator best. Basically a 555 timer with some other various wires and resistors that you wire into the ecu to trick the computer to thinking it is recieving a true 02 signal.

http://www.o2sim.com/24803.html

 

hehe...yes...I have hear your squirrel in person. Do you need me to call a rodent exterminator.

 

Haha, please do....I think I will have a remidy next week though.

 

The extra heat from the TT may have casued it

 

 

^^haha

 

i was looking at the turbos and the one on my side is about 1/2 maybe 3/4 of an inch away from the side wall but the other side is about 1 inch to almost 2 inch maybe. If it was the turbos could you put a high temperature resisting rubber to atleast stop the metal to metal contact. Or is their anything else that it could be.

 

I'd seriously doubt it's the turbos hitting the frame, unless your car has been wrecked previously or something.

Just a shot in the dark, but it could be that the point where your testpipes connect to the turbo downpipes is a little different now, and causing part of your exhaust to hit somewhere that it previously didn't, before the turbo install.

 

well what they have told me makes sense in a way becouse the engine moves to the side when you punch it but its weird becouse im the only one with this problem out of so many kits.

And im first owner of my car never wrecked to this day (knock on wood)

 

Our motors in out cars don't really move all that much, esp. compared to many other motors in some cars out there. It might move, but i highly doubt it will move an inch unless your motor mounts are toast somehow.

 

i have to check the best place would be in the dyno. let hope its just the test pipes

 

If the turbos are that far from the body then they are not it.

 

will see when i take the car up their gus. Thanks to everyone.

 

Fairlady z33,

Can you list ALL your mods that you have??? Your running 5.5 psi right? Stock clutch/flywheel?

Im very curious about the Greddy kit and you seem to be one of the most recent installls (i heard they are selling an updated version now)

Thanks

 

Well im automatic but some people upgrade when they higher boost.
Mod list
Greddy TT / FMIC
walbro fuel pump
Greddy type rs BOV/ with flange
autosport wiring
A/F gauge
Boost gauge
boost controller
turbo timer
J&S safegaurd
megan resonated test pipes

evrything else is stock

 

Thank you very much. What are your most recent power numbers? or what will they be after a good tune???

 

My Greddy EVO II exhaust rattled in a straight line and on decel like you are referring to. It looked like the exhaust cleared when on the lift, but it was jumping around and hitting one of the cross bars under the car. I had it bent to keep it off of there. Just in case it helps.

 

im going to go to 7psi with a 3 inch dual custom exhaust with 3 inch test pipes i think this will put me in the 375 + RWHP mark easily i think. Their is a guy making 424 RWHP on a fuel return system 3 inch custom exhaust and a plenum at around 7.5 to 8 pounds.