Water Injection?? Methanol...
Guys
WI without methan ol makes tons of power....you need to tune it. I am not going to repeat what I have said before (look at hte link provided above), only to add that the #1 mistake that tuners make with water injection is NOT trust it and still run the same AFRs as they do without WI. The whole purpose of WI is to be able to run NA-like AFRs at full boost. Half the tuners will think you are crazy (or stupid) if oyu tell them that, but thorough, true scientific research reveals the former to be true. Ideal setup for super-high boost applciations: high WFR (water-fuel ratio) of near 30% (up to 50% has been done on ver yextreme applications), ideal AFR of 12.3-12.8 (assuming your CHTs are "in the green") and optimal timing. What is optimal timing? What ever allows you to get to 15-17 degrees peak ATDC (after TDC) without detonating. If oyu are detonating, then increase WFR, or add methanol. When you stop detonating, dial in a desired amount of safety margin; IMO that's taking off 2 degrees of timing across the board and add 2-3% of WFR and/or methanol. That's THE algorithm of tuning. Not just pick random methanol:water mixtures, have it come on at a constant rate after a certain boost point, and just tune till you don't hear any knock and get an acceptable number. This way you will never know of what your engine can truly do.
WI without methan ol makes tons of power....you need to tune it. I am not going to repeat what I have said before (look at hte link provided above), only to add that the #1 mistake that tuners make with water injection is NOT trust it and still run the same AFRs as they do without WI. The whole purpose of WI is to be able to run NA-like AFRs at full boost. Half the tuners will think you are crazy (or stupid) if oyu tell them that, but thorough, true scientific research reveals the former to be true. Ideal setup for super-high boost applciations: high WFR (water-fuel ratio) of near 30% (up to 50% has been done on ver yextreme applications), ideal AFR of 12.3-12.8 (assuming your CHTs are "in the green") and optimal timing. What is optimal timing? What ever allows you to get to 15-17 degrees peak ATDC (after TDC) without detonating. If oyu are detonating, then increase WFR, or add methanol. When you stop detonating, dial in a desired amount of safety margin; IMO that's taking off 2 degrees of timing across the board and add 2-3% of WFR and/or methanol. That's THE algorithm of tuning. Not just pick random methanol:water mixtures, have it come on at a constant rate after a certain boost point, and just tune till you don't hear any knock and get an acceptable number. This way you will never know of what your engine can truly do.
Originally Posted by marluci7
There is so much more that isn't even listed there.... I went crazy with this thing... oh well.
So what are you going to do for tires to hold all that torque? You will probably only get tires to last 1000 miles on that beast!
Originally Posted by MoodDude
Not sure why you need a specific Z kit?
Many of the guys on this forum use FI w/ WI for their Z and it works. Do you have more info?
Thanks
Many of the guys on this forum use FI w/ WI for their Z and it works. Do you have more info?
Thanks
You dont necessarily need a Z specific kit..it just makes life easier. Buchur Racing EVO alky kit Take for example that kit for EVO's. It uses the factory intercooler sprayer tank, and is a 20 minute bolt on with no custom fabrication whatsoever. If somebody made a kit like that for the TT Z's out there, lots of money could be made just because of the simplicity of the install. I had that kit on my EVO 8 (before I got the Z) and made 365 awhp and 397 wtq (93 octane+100% meth) on the stock 16g turbo...before the kit was installed, I only made 315 awhp and 320 tq.......food for thought
Originally Posted by joshp214
You dont necessarily need a Z specific kit..it just makes life easier. Buchur Racing EVO alky kit Take for example that kit for EVO's. It uses the factory intercooler sprayer tank, and is a 20 minute bolt on with no custom fabrication whatsoever. If somebody made a kit like that for the TT Z's out there, lots of money could be made just because of the simplicity of the install. I had that kit on my EVO 8 (before I got the Z) and made 365 awhp and 397 wtq (93 octane+100% meth) on the stock 16g turbo...before the kit was installed, I only made 315 awhp and 320 tq.......food for thought
Originally Posted by marluci7
lol... I've been driving the car is 636 rwhp... I took the car back at the shop for some weight reduction to my engine parts, headwork, 8,000rpm redline and five more pounds of boost... should be at least 700rwhp when i get it back this week... Ill will post the dyno and my story...
So - how did it go? I'm interested in knowing how your headgasket held up - no one else seems to be having any luck at those hp levels.
Last edited by Philthy; Dec 27, 2005 at 06:55 AM.
Originally Posted by PoWeRtRiP
yep alcy rocks! allows you to run the turbo at the very peak of its compressor efficiency map without having to worry about detonating. fyi YOU DO NOT NEED A CAR SPECIFIC KIT to run water or alcy. there are several universal kits out there. all they have is a water pump, reservoir, lines, injector, and electronic box user programmable to start spraying when the boost hits X psi.
Like I said before, a car specific kit is not needed at all.............HOWEVER.....if someone was smart enough, they would make one and sell the **** out of them because of the simplicity of the install.
Originally Posted by GurgenPB
Guys
WI without methan ol makes tons of power....you need to tune it. I am not going to repeat what I have said before (look at hte link provided above), only to add that the #1 mistake that tuners make with water injection is NOT trust it and still run the same AFRs as they do without WI. The whole purpose of WI is to be able to run NA-like AFRs at full boost. Half the tuners will think you are crazy (or stupid) if oyu tell them that, but thorough, true scientific research reveals the former to be true. Ideal setup for super-high boost applciations: high WFR (water-fuel ratio) of near 30% (up to 50% has been done on ver yextreme applications), ideal AFR of 12.3-12.8 (assuming your CHTs are "in the green") and optimal timing. What is optimal timing? What ever allows you to get to 15-17 degrees peak ATDC (after TDC) without detonating. If oyu are detonating, then increase WFR, or add methanol. When you stop detonating, dial in a desired amount of safety margin; IMO that's taking off 2 degrees of timing across the board and add 2-3% of WFR and/or methanol. That's THE algorithm of tuning. Not just pick random methanol:water mixtures, have it come on at a constant rate after a certain boost point, and just tune till you don't hear any knock and get an acceptable number. This way you will never know of what your engine can truly do.
WI without methan ol makes tons of power....you need to tune it. I am not going to repeat what I have said before (look at hte link provided above), only to add that the #1 mistake that tuners make with water injection is NOT trust it and still run the same AFRs as they do without WI. The whole purpose of WI is to be able to run NA-like AFRs at full boost. Half the tuners will think you are crazy (or stupid) if oyu tell them that, but thorough, true scientific research reveals the former to be true. Ideal setup for super-high boost applciations: high WFR (water-fuel ratio) of near 30% (up to 50% has been done on ver yextreme applications), ideal AFR of 12.3-12.8 (assuming your CHTs are "in the green") and optimal timing. What is optimal timing? What ever allows you to get to 15-17 degrees peak ATDC (after TDC) without detonating. If oyu are detonating, then increase WFR, or add methanol. When you stop detonating, dial in a desired amount of safety margin; IMO that's taking off 2 degrees of timing across the board and add 2-3% of WFR and/or methanol. That's THE algorithm of tuning. Not just pick random methanol:water mixtures, have it come on at a constant rate after a certain boost point, and just tune till you don't hear any knock and get an acceptable number. This way you will never know of what your engine can truly do.
The Grand National guys use these systems A LOT and have tons of experience. Hell, those guys were raising boost to some pretty scary levels without even running intercoolers. GNT's never came with 'em so that's testament right there that, as Gurgen mentioned above, if these systems are tuned right can help yield some awesome numbers..
Originally Posted by MoodDude
Are you addicted to mods? I thought I was bad!
So what are you going to do for tires to hold all that torque? You will probably only get tires to last 1000 miles on that beast!
So what are you going to do for tires to hold all that torque? You will probably only get tires to last 1000 miles on that beast!
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
anxiously awaiting!!!!!
share...sleeved? darton?
share...sleeved? darton?
None of the above... just forged pistons and rods... the block is holding up very well... we took it apart afew weeks ago to see the wear on the engine and its actually holding up very well.... We are doing some other things to the crankshaft and the heads for some more power along with 25 psi of boost...
Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
^^^+1 agreed..
The Grand National guys use these systems A LOT and have tons of experience. Hell, those guys were raising boost to some pretty scary levels without even running intercoolers. GNT's never came with 'em so that's testament right there that, as Gurgen mentioned above, if these systems are tuned right can help yield some awesome numbers..
The Grand National guys use these systems A LOT and have tons of experience. Hell, those guys were raising boost to some pretty scary levels without even running intercoolers. GNT's never came with 'em so that's testament right there that, as Gurgen mentioned above, if these systems are tuned right can help yield some awesome numbers..
Just to avoid misinformation, 85 and earlier Turbo Buicks did not have intercoolers and are called hot air cars by the Buick people themselves to differentiate from the 86/87 Regals and 89 TTA's that DO have intercoolers. Those engines all have low compression(8.0:1), so they can run lots of boost. We (my brother and I) have a hot air motor in Chevy monza and we run 20 PSI of boost in a non intercooled car, for now. Once it's intercooled, we'll be looking at boost in the mid 20's.
Originally Posted by booger
I've heard some one might try W/M injection with a TT on a G/350Z with out an intercooler
Originally Posted by SoFl_G
Just to avoid misinformation, 85 and earlier Turbo Buicks did not have intercoolers and are called hot air cars by the Buick people themselves to differentiate from the 86/87 Regals and 89 TTA's that DO have intercoolers. Those engines all have low compression(8.0:1), so they can run lots of boost. We (my brother and I) have a hot air motor in Chevy monza and we run 20 PSI of boost in a non intercooled car, for now. Once it's intercooled, we'll be looking at boost in the mid 20's.
If you're already running 20 psi non-intercooled I would assume the turbo is very efficient, so with the addition of an intercooler why not push for the 30's??
SoFI_G,
Matter of fact, since you have experience running non-intercooled what would you consider a safe efficiency range to run this way with and w/o water injection, say at 12-15 psi? 72%? 75%? 78%?
Matter of fact, since you have experience running non-intercooled what would you consider a safe efficiency range to run this way with and w/o water injection, say at 12-15 psi? 72%? 75%? 78%?
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