Evil_Genius

Before any of you reply to my questions with condescending and smartass answers that in no way help to educate me, take into consideration that the 350z is a new realm for me...Anyway, there are some factors to know before answering this...1. My intention is not to build a drag monster.2.The car will be driven semi-daily.3 The car is an automatic.4.I do not have any desire to to rebuild the tranny.5.I want the car,whatever route i take, to mantain it's reliabilty so that i will have no worries in the event that for example, i take the car on a trip.6.The car has to pass emissions.With all these factors in mind, what direction should i go...twin turbo, single turbo, or supercharged..I would like to keep the hp between 400-450, if thats even a realistic goal, without tearing up the tranny.Also, what other components in addition to the turbo kit do you guys suggest that i run...Thanks in advance for any help and please keep the negative comments to yourself....Ps..i failed to mention that i will be doing no upgrading to the internals...

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

If you dont want to have worries just get an APS ST or TT the tranny is not going to allow more than 400 hp i think it will start slippin you will most likely have to get a AT tranny cooler and a valve body.

JoneZZZ

iTrader: (1)

On questions 1-4:
I have about 9K miles on my APS/ST. I have a 5AT/Touring that is my week-end cruizer. I have done no upgrades to internals or the tranny, and have been VERY pleased with the results.....

Question 5
This was 1st on my list, I was looking for a reliable solution, That weighed heavily on my decision; and to that end I have planned and budgeted for maintanance on my car

As far as your HP goal, it should be easily attainable(I had all these discussions with my tuner GRD...and they exceeded my expectations)....

I am running
APS/ST, Plenum, exhaust@9.5psi

I do have a brake upgrade also...

My next mod will be the tranny cooler.....


I don't really care about emissions, as that is not a big deal in my state(will cros that bridge when I get there)....


Good luck on your project!......

JoneZZZ

iTrader: (1)

This is a good read for background...


https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/161182-5at-transmission-basics-info.html

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/140298-aps-single-turbo-on-a-5at_comments.html

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/159756-forced-induction-101-info.html

captj3

iTrader: (1)

Any single s/t will remove your cats with no way to put them back. Then you only other alternative is TT or S/C. To my knowledge the A/T have there problem with FI. I have an M/T . It's best to talk to the guys that have a A/T.

Evil_Genius

Thank you Jonezzz, for your response....What are your stats, if u dont mind me asking, with that particular kit? Emissions is a concern for me because i live in a county in the state of Georgia, where emissions testing is mandatory....I was also curious about the Turbonetics kit....Excuse my ignorance to begin with , but what are these issues that i've read ppl having in respect to wastegates and overboosting with aftermarket exhausts...I was leaning towards that particular brand, being that it seems to be the most complete and hassle free kit, but now im not too sure....Also, how often do you drive your car in manumatic mode.? Generally, is it better to drive a turbo equipped Z in standard drive mode or does it really make a difference? If the cats cant be retained with a single turbo configuration,does that pretty much exclude me from being able to pass emissions...?

JoneZZZ

iTrader: (1)

No problem....you have a lot of questions but here is a start.....

I will be glad to send you an e-mail with my dyno numbers.... I have been really careful about throwing out my dyno numbers on my 5AT....the following articel provides an explanation. We were able to pull 430ft/lbs.....My "real world testing" has shown that number to be on target.....

""THE TRUTH ABOUT DYNAMOMETER READINGS AND HIGH STALL TORQUE CONVERTERS

There is a misconception and a lot of misinformation about the poor vehicle performance numbers that are generated by testing a car with a high stall torque converter on a dynamometer. Most people that are not familiar with how a torque converter operates will automatically think that the torque converter is inefficient. This is totally false and the following facts are why you should not believe the dynamometer numbers while using an unlocked
high stall torque converter. All late model dynamometers have a software program that commands the loading and speed of the vehicle over a certain period of time while making a test pull. The software used in these dynamometers is setup to be used with a locked 1:1 connection between the engine and the rear wheels, such as using a standard shift transmission in 3rd gear or when an automatic transmission has the torque converter clutch
locked. When an unlocked high stall torque converter is used to make the pull and the dynamometer software has not been changed to allow for the fluid coupling differences the dynamometer readings will all be bogus. For instance, the low rpm torque readings will be high due to the torque multiplication of the torque converter being run in partial stall. Likewise,
the high rpm torque readings will be low due to the long period of time the dynamometer takes to allow the torque converter to transition from partial torque multiplication to a hydraulic locked condition. The only cure for this phenomenon is to rewrite the dynamometer software to prevent this from happening. Torque converters with a low STR or low stall are not as adversely affected by this phenomenon. The high rpm transition problems
never occur when the vehicle is being driven or raced normally. Therefore, worrying about what the dynamometer numbers are is a total waste of time. If your dynamometer operator refuses to alter the software to give correct readings then the only things you can do is (1.) lock the torque converter clutch and do the testing, (2.) use the readings you get with an unlocked torque converter as a baseline and continue to tune the car like normal
until you get the best numbers remembering these are just numbers and not the actual horsepower and torque or (3.) use a dynamometer shop that gives you the service you deserve for your hard earned money. The only really true test of the performance of a vehicle is to take it to the track and see what
ET and MPH the car will run."

converter.com"



As far as when I am in manumatic mode vs auto:

Whenever I go stoplight to stoplight/stop-go>>>>manumatic

Whenever you have "room to stretch">>>>>>>>"full auto"...


Hope I hit some of your big questions........send me a PM with your e-mail address....I can send you my dyno......

JoneZZZ

iTrader: (1)

"Evil_Genius".....check your PM.....waiting on a response from you.

JoneZZZ

iTrader: (1)

Dyno sent.........

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

The auto tranny will not hold up to the torque of a turbocharger. The auto tranny as/is from the factory not a performance trany. Slow shifting. You will need a vavle body upgrade minimum. It's more realistic to look for gains of 325-350 rwhp if no increase of torque holding capacity is planned. Likely a Stillen SC is in your future.

400-450 rwhp IS a drag monster.

Respect
JET

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

The Turbonetics single turbo is available with or without a catalytic converter.

Respect
JET

More Power

Consider my A5T tranny upgrades that I have gotten in anticipation of my coming APS TT. In my opinion our auto tranny will not hold up, long term, under TT power without significant upgrades. A mere valve body modification will not do it IMO. The shop that did mine will have a kit available this spring. My posts on this start about 5 from the top but the main post with the auto tranny upgrades is several down below the first. Good luck:

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....93#post1955993

Evil_Genius

It seems as though, with the exception of JoneZZZ, everyone's replies have been mostly opinion , and not neccesarily based on proven factual information.I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes or offend anyone, but i need concrete facts in order to better my decision making....One thing i know for sure, thanks to a few of you, is that i cant run the hp that i want with a stock tranny...ok, so given that I take the needed steps to make the tranny stronger what then?...I've read so many posts dealing with FI'd motors blowing....I know that whenever you introduce forced induction to a naturally aspirated motor you run varying risks, but damn, now im spooked.Im already on a budget as it is, spending money at the same time towards wheels and whatnot, and i really dont want to have to spend money as well rebuilding or buying another motor altogether...So that being said,and realistically changing my hp goals to about 350-400 hp, whats going to be the better kit for the job?....and doesnt AEM make an ems that, in addtion to whatever different maps you may have ,also have a map option for emissions-test time? LMAO...if the only option i have to stay legal CARB wise is to run Stillen, i'd rather stay n/a!

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

My word of advice to you is to do your own research, and make your own decisions. No one can explain everything you need to know to make a decision. All the information is in these forums. Go search for it. I spent around 3 months deciding on my mods. Sometiems spending 8 or 10 hours using the search here.

Get familiar with it and then you can ask more specific educated questions instead of just generalities. You didn't even know your only CARB legal option was the Stillen.

Respect
JET

jakesford

just out of curiousity, they sniff test OBDII vehicles where you live? I see you're worried about it being legal, but as long as your not throwing an emission code(your computer shows all emissions equipment is working), and "visually" your cats, ect. are there you pass. As far as the visual test i've yet to have an inspector check any car I've owned.

BTW there is nothing like driving an automatic turbo car,

Fairlady_z33

iTrader: (56)

You want concrete facts the truth is that their really isnt that many upgrades for the tranny SGP make almost a full tranny upgrade i forgot what they are working on now. And it still wont pass i think over 500rwhp so we AT owners still have somewaiting to do. If i were you look up the kit that you want and dont pass the 350rwhp for motor and tranny safety. SGP is working on the last thing they needed to upgrade for the tranny hopefully soon we will be a able to have AT trannys that can hold 700 +rwhp just a waiting game.

Evil_Genius

Jakesford, thanks for your response....Yes, the emissions tests here arent nearly as stringent as say, in California...In response to your last post JETPILOT,commenting on my ignorance is just reiterating something i had already forewarned everyone about....I appreciate the attempt to make me look like an a$$ though! I'd much rather ask questions and gain knowledge so that i can carry this through properly as opposed to acting like an omnipotent cyber demigod.....play that condescending role with someone else, please and thank you....

Evil_Genius

If you find it necessary to be an a$$ and my questions bother or irritate you , then by all means, do not respond to my post...Im here for help and answers...not witty banter. If you have any specific observations relating to my queries and have productive and positive answers, then feel free to pm me....Also, if u have any links handy to posts that may better help me figure out what im doing, send me those as well...I sincerely thank all those who have taken the time and patience to answer my remedial line of questioning but as I stated, this is all new to me...

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Let's get one thing straight here. Don't know how long you have been lurking here, but you are a recent addition to the group here. You seem to have a knife edge personality and a chip on your shoulder. Just my observation. So I'll try to keep you off edge by being pleasant.

1. There are no hard and fast facts on the auto tranny. You won't find them. The auto tranny is not on 6the fore front of go fast development. No one has FACTS. So do nothing or go experiment and supply us with the facts.

2. Be careful who you throw your attitude at here. We have a nice peaceful community here for the most part. If you want answers from any of us in the future lose the attitude.

3. Use the search option it is your friend.... That is where the info lies. Tons of info. Weeks worth of reading here. Get used to it because the same questions have been asked so many times when you post a questio nthat's been posted to death many people just won't answer.

4. Not trying to be a d*ck, but that's how I built my car. Start searching.

5. Honestly... you don't want to touch the transmission in any way shape or form???? Don't bother. You'll tear it to pieces in no time.

6. How does one come up with the money for $10,000 in mods attending med school? I find this ineteresting.

Here's a thread from a SEARCH I did concerning your questions. You might want to contact some members in that thread through the PM feature. https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....&highlight=5at

Respect
JET

BobaFettm

iTrader: (2)

Hey not sure about this here... but the FX has the same auto tranny as the Z right?? If so... I know a guy here that has a stillen 2 with lots of other mods dyno'd at near 370+whp... with about 15k on the clock... trans works perfect for him!