My Stillen Stage 4 Supercharger Mods Review :)
#41
Originally Posted by 350z_this
did you just get the stillen flywheeel or did you do a flywheel/clutch combo? is the flywheel enough? and why just the flywheel w/o the clutch upgrade????
#42
Originally Posted by g35twinturbo
Tony.
What do u feel about the risk of running a stage 4, as a daily driver. I am worried that i will be giving up one of the best thing the stillen sc has going for it, and thats its reliablity.
I was told that the stage 3 sometimes shows sign of detonation in hot canyon runs, and on hot days. How do u feel this is compared to the stage 3?
What do u feel about the risk of running a stage 4, as a daily driver. I am worried that i will be giving up one of the best thing the stillen sc has going for it, and thats its reliablity.
I was told that the stage 3 sometimes shows sign of detonation in hot canyon runs, and on hot days. How do u feel this is compared to the stage 3?
now i have stage 4 and i also drive my car as before, the car seems even smoother than before. The addition of new fuel pump and lbigger injector (more fuel) makes it very safe. As far as feel is concerned , it feels smoother now and nicer to drive
#43
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
We sell the stage 4 online on our site here:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=6469
and yes, a light flywheel with this SC does in fact help. That and running a KJR pulley:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...p?keywords=kjr
This pulley works perfectly for this setup, i love it.
the car drives much better with stage 4, and much faster
Also, on a side note, when my car comes back from the body and stereo shops, i'll be upgrading my intercooling system to see if little things can really make a big difference. I'll be upgrading the size of the core, start running water wetter, and a cusotmer intercooler Nitrous sprayer... So the next few months should be good, and getting ready for the hot cali summer!
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...oducts_id=6469
and yes, a light flywheel with this SC does in fact help. That and running a KJR pulley:
http://performancenissanparts.com/ca...p?keywords=kjr
This pulley works perfectly for this setup, i love it.
the car drives much better with stage 4, and much faster
Also, on a side note, when my car comes back from the body and stereo shops, i'll be upgrading my intercooling system to see if little things can really make a big difference. I'll be upgrading the size of the core, start running water wetter, and a cusotmer intercooler Nitrous sprayer... So the next few months should be good, and getting ready for the hot cali summer!
thanks for the info with the Clutch and flywheel DrG.... but can you just run with flywheel alone without the clutch upgrade? if so would it be a disadvantage?
#45
Originally Posted by 350z_this
KJR Pulley? is that the same as the UR pulley? and if not, what is the difference? Stillen tells me to use the OEM Pulley...... so why would the KJR be better then the OEM?
thanks for the info with the Clutch and flywheel DrG.... but can you just run with flywheel alone without the clutch upgrade? if so would it be a disadvantage?
thanks for the info with the Clutch and flywheel DrG.... but can you just run with flywheel alone without the clutch upgrade? if so would it be a disadvantage?
As far as the clutch/flywheel is concerned, you can get the flywheel alone no need to change the clutch. However, changing the flywheel will require taking the transmission and clutch out which is a 4-6 hours job by a trained mechanic!, so if your clutch is old i recommend to change both together. If your clutch is new, wait until it gets a bit worn out so it is worth it to take the transmission down and to change the clutch with the flywheel ( you will avoid doing this job twice once for flywheel and then again for clutch) anyways it is your choice and how anxious you are to get the flywheel. This is what i have done , i waited until my clutch is worn out (not completely though it had 25K on it) . Now you can always keep your stock clutch , it works fine it is a good clutch, however logically it will not last as long as it should because of increased power. in my case i felt that it is getting worn out after the SC modification. the clutch felt soft ready to slip. Clutch life depends on your driving, some people never change clutches. but if you want a crisp response , and a clutch that will last longer and can handle more power it is better to change it. i got the ACT clutch from Stillen , it is very good and the pedal feels almost like stock a tiny bit harder. The flywheel will make the car accelerate much faster, it is a great mod . comparing it with the pulley: with the crank pulley you are lightening the rotational mass by 5 -6 lbs on a small diameter, with the flywheel you are reducing the rotational mass of the stock flywheel by almost 14 lbs on a large diameter, large diameter means more inertia means better results.
#46
Thread Starter
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From: so cali 909-951-626
We carry both the UR and the KJR.
However, if you run a SC, go with the KJR, as it's stock sized, just lighter weight. A UR pulley won't work well with a SC due to the complications in belt sizing etc...
However, if you run a SC, go with the KJR, as it's stock sized, just lighter weight. A UR pulley won't work well with a SC due to the complications in belt sizing etc...
#48
It works great. 13.0 @ 105.7 , 5AT on street tires. First gear is wicked. 2nd is more wicked than first. When i put my 1/8 times into the 0 to 60mile formula it read 4.1 seconds. Only did this once at I- 41 speedway. It was witnessed by the G 35 guys who ran there that day. The track had awsume traction for coming off the line. Had to launch at 750 rpm or it just spins the tires. Had the stock fuel pump and it ran out of fuel preasure at 5900 rpm. Just got my pro torque converter from Nick at performance motor sports today. With the weld 15x8 rims at ET slicks it should go 12.5. this summer. The ported blower should make 342 rwhp and with it we are hoping to go 12.25 to 12.30. How much power does your 5 AT make?
stock tire's 275/ 35/ 19 toyos
stock tire's 275/ 35/ 19 toyos
#49
Originally Posted by Dr.G
hey man no problem... the KJR and UR are two different brands or manufacturers of crank pulley. they both make lighter crank pulleys. i believe Stillen carries the UR (unorthodox racing) pulley. a lighter pulley will make the crank shaft rotate quicker when accelerating , the car will respond faster and will accelerate quicker as if it is a lighter car.
As far as the clutch/flywheel is concerned, you can get the flywheel alone no need to change the clutch. However, changing the flywheel will require taking the transmission and clutch out which is a 4-6 hours job by a trained mechanic!, so if your clutch is old i recommend to change both together. If your clutch is new, wait until it gets a bit worn out so it is worth it to take the transmission down and to change the clutch with the flywheel ( you will avoid doing this job twice once for flywheel and then again for clutch) anyways it is your choice and how anxious you are to get the flywheel. This is what i have done , i waited until my clutch is worn out (not completely though it had 25K on it) . Now you can always keep your stock clutch , it works fine it is a good clutch, however logically it will not last as long as it should because of increased power. in my case i felt that it is getting worn out after the SC modification. the clutch felt soft ready to slip. Clutch life depends on your driving, some people never change clutches. but if you want a crisp response , and a clutch that will last longer and can handle more power it is better to change it. i got the ACT clutch from Stillen , it is very good and the pedal feels almost like stock a tiny bit harder. The flywheel will make the car accelerate much faster, it is a great mod . comparing it with the pulley: with the crank pulley you are lightening the rotational mass by 5 -6 lbs on a small diameter, with the flywheel you are reducing the rotational mass of the stock flywheel by almost 14 lbs on a large diameter, large diameter means more inertia means better results.
As far as the clutch/flywheel is concerned, you can get the flywheel alone no need to change the clutch. However, changing the flywheel will require taking the transmission and clutch out which is a 4-6 hours job by a trained mechanic!, so if your clutch is old i recommend to change both together. If your clutch is new, wait until it gets a bit worn out so it is worth it to take the transmission down and to change the clutch with the flywheel ( you will avoid doing this job twice once for flywheel and then again for clutch) anyways it is your choice and how anxious you are to get the flywheel. This is what i have done , i waited until my clutch is worn out (not completely though it had 25K on it) . Now you can always keep your stock clutch , it works fine it is a good clutch, however logically it will not last as long as it should because of increased power. in my case i felt that it is getting worn out after the SC modification. the clutch felt soft ready to slip. Clutch life depends on your driving, some people never change clutches. but if you want a crisp response , and a clutch that will last longer and can handle more power it is better to change it. i got the ACT clutch from Stillen , it is very good and the pedal feels almost like stock a tiny bit harder. The flywheel will make the car accelerate much faster, it is a great mod . comparing it with the pulley: with the crank pulley you are lightening the rotational mass by 5 -6 lbs on a small diameter, with the flywheel you are reducing the rotational mass of the stock flywheel by almost 14 lbs on a large diameter, large diameter means more inertia means better results.
#51
Originally Posted by Hydrazine
BTW I turned in my notice at Boeing because Motordyne is now doing well enough to be self sustaining. Now I am going to have a lot more time for R&D, meets, GTG's and track days! Woo Hoo!!!
May I wish you the very best
G
#52
Originally Posted by godmans
I wish you very best with your company and I really wanna see it grows and flourishes within the G/Z community and expands its way towards the whole Nissian community !!
May I wish you the very best
G
May I wish you the very best
G
#53
Originally Posted by Z ELIMINATOR
It works great. 13.0 @ 105.7 , 5AT on street tires. First gear is wicked. 2nd is more wicked than first. When i put my 1/8 times into the 0 to 60mile formula it read 4.1 seconds. Only did this once at I- 41 speedway. It was witnessed by the G 35 guys who ran there that day. The track had awsume traction for coming off the line. Had to launch at 750 rpm or it just spins the tires. Had the stock fuel pump and it ran out of fuel preasure at 5900 rpm. Just got my pro torque converter from Nick at performance motor sports today. With the weld 15x8 rims at ET slicks it should go 12.5. this summer. The ported blower should make 342 rwhp and with it we are hoping to go 12.25 to 12.30. How much power does your 5 AT make?
stock tire's 275/ 35/ 19 toyos
stock tire's 275/ 35/ 19 toyos
#54
I still am at some point, but who can say no to more power for $800 besides, the whole kit has to come off so that I can fix this ....
BTW, Stillen have been fantastic about helping me with this problem, thanks Sam
Colin
BTW, Stillen have been fantastic about helping me with this problem, thanks Sam
Colin
Originally Posted by 350dgrz
Colin,
Thought you were going the TT route...Guess not huh? Let me know when you do your install. I would like to check it out! See ya around.
Nilo
Thought you were going the TT route...Guess not huh? Let me know when you do your install. I would like to check it out! See ya around.
Nilo
#55
Originally Posted by Tony@Performance
We carry both the UR and the KJR.
However, if you run a SC, go with the KJR, as it's stock sized, just lighter weight. A UR pulley won't work well with a SC due to the complications in belt sizing etc...
However, if you run a SC, go with the KJR, as it's stock sized, just lighter weight. A UR pulley won't work well with a SC due to the complications in belt sizing etc...
#56
Originally Posted by cersoft
I still am at some point, but who can say no to more power for $800 besides, the whole kit has to come off so that I can fix this ....
BTW, Stillen have been fantastic about helping me with this problem, thanks Sam
Colin
BTW, Stillen have been fantastic about helping me with this problem, thanks Sam
Colin
#57
Originally Posted by Z BOY
what are we looking at? pls to expain.
You should have seen my face when I opened the hood and found the S/C belt just sitting on top of the blower ...
Colin
#58
Originally Posted by cersoft
This is the idler pulley shaft (with pulley still attached) that has snapped and fallen down into the space behind the timing covers ... luckily I wasn't on it at the time or the carnage could have been major, talk about spinning top of death ....
You should have seen my face when I opened the hood and found the S/C belt just sitting on top of the blower ...
Colin
You should have seen my face when I opened the hood and found the S/C belt just sitting on top of the blower ...
Colin