When you say they are 51 grams lighter. do you mean lighter than the pauter rods?

 

I would have to agree that it does matter which engine the internals go into. One length rod may see more torssional stress than another while at a given rpm. There are also other variables like the amount of friction that occurs due to differences in bearing style used in different engines. I am not saying that the Eagle rod can't hold more than 600hp. What I am saying is that all of this speculation is pointless. In a forum where everyone wants to see dyno numbers and bashes everyone who post a power adder without a dyno graph, I am amazed that everyone can jamp to such a quick conclusion as to if these rods can or cannot hold a certian amount of power. I believe that these rods can handle upwards of 600 plus hp, but to compare them to a 1100hp supra with eagle rods is not apples to apples. Since, as mentioned before, Eagle is not stupid. So why would they design a rod for a Supra that can only handle 700 hp when Supras with 800 plus hp are a dime a dozen (when compared to 350z's). They knew that a rod capable of only 700 hp would lose them alot of business in the Supra world. However, in the 350z world, 600 plus hp is not very common. There is still quite a dfew members above 600, but compare that number to those with Supras pushing 600 hp. Basically I would guess they targeted these rods towards the realistic and most seen hp level in Z's right now. 500-600 hp. I rememer that at one point pushing the stock internals past 400 was a bit sketchy. But pioneers have seen 500 plus hp on stock internals. For this reason I would say that you will start to see people with 600 hp on these rods.

 

Basically I would guess .......

That says it all
If you haven't work with these internals it all guesses. If you want photos of a VQ35 internals to guess with I can provide them.

-51 grams is the big end balance weight compared to stock OEM rods.
On V-6's you balance with bob weights just like a V-8 with slightly different math formulas

 

found a pic that may be of interest:
pauter rod vs stock rod:


woopsie


for viewing pleasure

 

Is the wrist pin seized up? (on the OEM one)

 

Hey Todd...love those pics.

Honestly, in looking at your OEM rod, it looks you spun a rod bearing. Notice the discoloration marks due to heat, oil starvation, damaged bearing..etc.etc..

Nice photos.

 

XBS i aggree i never doubt a product till ive seen it myself. or have done massive research in determining that it will indeed not performe well. i tell everyone the cheap route of 1100 bucks for full rods and pistons here. but cant wait to see your results

 

After 1 year, about 100 sets sold and installed in various cars, we've heard of no reports of Pauter rods breaking under any circumstances. I feel comfortable with that.

After 1 year, we hope to say the same thing about Eagle rods.

 

Is it true, I have heard from many places that crower rods are the best????

 

No, its not true. Nobody can claim a rod is the best. I wish more shops were honest with customers, and will just say something like the following: We have used various rods/piston combinations, and have found that X-Brand has worked well for us. But to say that Crower is better than Carillo or Pauter, is not an accurate statement.

Oftentimes, shops will suggest the parts that work well for them...nothing wrong with that.

I still maintain, that you will likely break a piston, or blow a headgasket, before you damage most forged rods.

 

We will see what happens, Like I said, I drive my car hard so if they last for me they are definetely good. I think most people dont buy them because they are so inexpenisve. If they were in the $850 range I bet more people would buy them.

Thanks again Shariff for the parts! We'll let you know when we get them in!

-George