Could everyone with F1 give us an idea of how much your kit costed? Please let us know what kit you have,how much hp you have, and how much everything including install, tunning, and gauges costed.

 

Anybody?...

 

By F1 are you meaning Forced Induction (F.I)? For parts and labor I have spent around 15k for 514 whp and 478 lb. tq. APS TT kit, custom cam, APS plenum/strut bar, APS Test pipes, custom true dual exhaust, JWT clutch, Defi Boost and Oil Temp. guauge, Toyo Tires . Future plans are H2o/meth injection for added insurance against detonation in the hot azz sumers here in Northern Cali.

 

Did you go to Scotts Performance??

 

Yes i mean Forced Induction....thanks for the info

 

Yep

 

Yea dude that guy is so good! I have been there countless amounts of times... Are you using a UNICHIP?

 

I am using the Unichip supplied with the APS kit. At this point there is really no reason I see to switch out for anything different. I am learning the feel of this new tune and power. I don't see myself "getting used / needing more" power. It feels incredible to me. I want a built bottom end not for more power really...just so I can't get on this car without having visions of my motor giving!

 

You are asking a pretty in-depth question and I am not sure how many people will put together the information you have asked for.

In truth I guess the answer varies greatly between the guys who might get a good deal on a slightly used setup and run stock boost (say about 325- 250 whp) with no add-ons; to the guys running custom built TT setups with built motors and all the additional requirements to keep the 600 - 700 whp wheels on the road (Axels, diff, fuel system, injectors, coolers, EMS, clutch, exhaust, suspension etc...).

My initial Greddy kit cost like 9k installed. But I have added a whole load of stuff aiming for 600+whp. So now you are talking well above that.

There are a # of threads here where people discuss the cost of installing FI. You might want to check a few of those out.

Best wishes,
--B

 

is "costed" a word?

 

It is now!

 

On my base model... I'm already looking at 8.9k for just Greddy TT+IC, cas wire, oil pan spacer, rods&pistons, ARP kit, JWT clutch/fly, UTEC, fuel pump... I'm still not counting return fuel system, bigger injectors, tougher clutch, LSD, half axles, BC, 3" TBE, engine rebuild labor, tunining which will push me past 15k quickly. It gets expensive REAL fast. This year my goal is just to install the GTT with a mildly rebuilt engine, and up the boost as I get the appropriate mods until my eventual goal of 500hp.

 

No, i'm sorry, i am very stupid at times.

 

Nice, but you guys are going way to CRAZY!!! i just want 375-400whp on stock block

 

yes my Ferrari F1 car is the best

 

iff thats all you want hit the APS Single Turbo....or Turbonetic Single Turbo

 

Vortech SC on a 5AT tranny.

Kit cost $4300 and supporting parts were around $1000 give or take.

Supporting parts were boost gauge, EGT gauge and wideband gauge, gauge pod, JWT oil pan spacer, 1 step colder plugs and I think that is it.

Install was $1400 for everything installed.

I now have 367RWHP and 305RWTQ. I have since installed the smaller pulley and had a retune which was around $600.

In total, I have about $7000 or so in my F/I kit and I should be running 12s in the 1/4 when I run again in a week or 2.

Hope this helps!

 

Is that going to be dependable? I plan on keeping my car for 4-5 years. It's my daily driver; I will be tracking it maybe once a year? Also I like DRIVING my car, I don’t like the whole "go slow and save the motor"....I will push the car every night when its nice and cold, ill go from 20-120ish pretty hard. So I set-up that won't blow up on me. Do you guys think I should get ST or just go NA so its more reliable?


Thanks, Amir

 

What? St or FI? Single Turbo or Forced Induction?? ST is a form of Forced Induction, Were you asking if a Super Charger is safer than a turbo? To me boost is boost, you could probably run either one safely if you run LOW Boost with a good tune. Either one is putting more stress on the motor and intern will wear out the engine a little faster than if you left it in stock form. I run about 25psi on a regular basis but that's on a 4g63 with 8.5:1 pistons, steel headgasket, with some ARP headstuds, Etc. I dont know to much about the VQ engine but some of the non-turbo 4g63 guys would do as a cheap alternative to a motor build was to use a copper headgasket to space the head from the block to help lower the factory compression and help fit that 10lb of **** into a 5lb bag by adding a few more lbs of boost due to the now lower compression. There are other factors though such as the nissan rods, how much power can they hold with out breaking? Do the rods break or just the rod bolt which could be easily swapped out for some ARP Bolts? There is probably a few steps you could do to make the factory engine hold up a bit better to forced induction, But I'am by far an expert and these are just my opinions, and things I've seen and or read about.

Sorry for the drag on sentences

 

yeah i ment F1 or N/A. Anyhow.

Another thing, I want to only spend about 8k if I go F1, and if I stay NA only 5 including cat back. I am aiming for 380-400whp F1 and 300-315whp n/a...anything think I can do it with my budget?