ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

I'm very happy with the car after the turbonetics install, the car is a monster.

Otherwise, it takes forever to start when it does, and sometimes doesn't. I've drained my battery twice today, after receiving the tuned ECU from Turbonetics Inc.

My other problem. My CEL comes on, I reset it and it keeps coming on. What can this be. Please HELP.

Thank you.
Michael M.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like your crank angle sensor is disconnected or has gone bad.

beastie

iTrader: (3)

I had the same issue on my APS and it turned out to be a crank angle senor error caused by a bad APS wiring harness.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Great guys, where is the crank angle sensor, if it's connected then it's bad i suppose, how much is it? where do i get it Nissan? HELP !!

THANK YOU

beastie

iTrader: (3)

It's a small shielded wire running from the ECU to the ??? well I guess the crank. If my car wasn't in the shop I would take a picture for you. I am sure someone here can describe it better or will have a picture.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Guys I need to fix this problem, my battery just died this morning. I don't know where to look. I called turbonetics they say they don't know anything about this ???? I'm gonna call again in the afternoon see if I have better luck. Anyone?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

This problem is not from the kit. You Crank Angle Sensor is not picking up a signal from the flywheel. After a couple of revolutions with no input from the sensor the ECU switches to the Cam Angle Sensor and starts the car. This system is explained in great detail on this forum if you search for it. Like I said before your crank angle sensor has one of the following faults:

(1)Not connected
(2)Wire is cut somewhere
(3)Sensor is broken
(4)You replaced the flywheel with one that does not have the pick up points on it and it can't get a signal.

The kit does not affect any of these things. If you had a shop install the kit take it back. If you installed it yourself look for the sensor on the drivers side of the trans bell housing. It has three wires going to it. Ensure the harness is connected to the sensor and the wires are intact.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Thanks man, I appreciate the help, I'll look at it this afternoon. Thank you again.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Okay, I jacked up the Z when i got home, went under, found a sensor on the driver side tranny's bell housing, it kinda faces the floor, and it had three wires, all wires are in good shape, it was plugged on. Now what can I do? Buy a new sensor, if so, Nissan? Help me out please. Thank you.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Well a couple things. First the wires could be damaged somewhere between the sensor and the ECU. Try doing an ECU reset anyways and see if anything changes. If not you should be throwing a code right now. Scan the ECU and see what the code is. If the code comes up as CAS fault then there is damage somewhere and you aren't seeing it. At that point I would check the wire for continuity. But at least try the ECU reset first.
Here are some ECU resets to try:
ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

After re-reading your first post can you please have the code scanned and tell me what it is.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Where do I get the code scanned? I've never done it with this car, what do I do, how do I scan it, let me know.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

I've already reset the ECU around 10-15 times BTW, just forgot to mention that, I have the instructions printed since my test pipe install.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Most auto parts stores have a OBDII code scanner that you can borrow by leaving your liscense. Plug it into the OBDII port and fire it up. Turn the key to on and it will read the code. If you have a friend at a Nissan dealer they can scan it for you. Or a car friend with an OBDII scan tool

taurran

iTrader: (18)

Go to any autozone and they should scan it for you for free. Either that, or buy your own obd2 scanner for like $30 at an automotive store.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Okay tomorrow I'm buying the code scanner, due to the fact that I will most likely run into trouble. I have bad luck always!

What do you guys most likely think will be my problem, that cable looks intact, so does the sensor, I pulled it out and back in, it looks fine. What do you think I will end up with?

Guys I appreciate the help!

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

It sounds like a bad sensor to me. Won't know till we see the code. Did you have a new flywheel installed recently?

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

No, stock flywheel is on. Man this is scaring me, I just read the long 6 page thread on blown motors because of this issue?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

That thread is a year old and a bit more is known about this now then when that thread was written. I disconnected my CAS wire last year and drove my car like I stole it for weeks and there was never an issue. You are worrying yourself too much. Scan the code and if it comes up with a CAS issue test the wires for continuity and if that checks out replace the sensor. End of story.

ipcheck

iTrader: (26)

Good, then I don't have to buy a shielded wire? I never thought of a reason for the shielded wire, why would there be interfeerence. But if the wires are good. Then it's a bad sensor, I'm thinking Nissan will sell that to me. Last thing, How do I know which wires these are at the ECU?