what should i do with this block??
Originally Posted by 350z-900whp
i don't know what do you mean by main bearings?? but yes, there is no hole in the block.
Man bearings are between the crank and block (as opposed to a rod bearing, which is between the rod and crank). Check out http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing.htm - might help you understand it further.
Originally Posted by dmoffitt
You don't know what a main bearing is, yet your screen name claims 900hp? Either you are well funded or still dreaming - I say that in the nicest manner.
Man bearings are between the crank and block (as opposed to a rod bearing, which is between the rod and crank). Check out http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing.htm - might help you understand it further.
Man bearings are between the crank and block (as opposed to a rod bearing, which is between the rod and crank). Check out http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing.htm - might help you understand it further.
any way thanks for clearing that for me
i didn't open the end bottom yet. i just opened the heads. so, i don't know??
the thing is i'm not willing to pay for machine shop just to open the engine for me. if i will open it, i will do it with shop that can rebuild the engine for me after he open my block.
Machine / engine shops do nothing BUT assemble and disassemble / inspect blocks, day in & day out. Not knowing what/where a main bearing is immediately disqualifies you (in my mind) to properly tear down and diagnose it yourself. Its one thing to unbolt heads or remove the oil pan, its another to properly remove pistons.
Do yourself and (without being penny wise and pound foolish) take it to a professional. You have described a situation re: this block which is unusual and have made it clear this is new information to you, don't make an expensive mistake trying to save a few bucks or have a little learning experience (and overlook something that is broken / damaged / in need of replacing, etc). Again, I am saying this nicely and to look oit for you, not to put you down.
Good luck...
Do yourself and (without being penny wise and pound foolish) take it to a professional. You have described a situation re: this block which is unusual and have made it clear this is new information to you, don't make an expensive mistake trying to save a few bucks or have a little learning experience (and overlook something that is broken / damaged / in need of replacing, etc). Again, I am saying this nicely and to look oit for you, not to put you down.
Good luck...
i have to agree with the last couple posts. if you are doing the disassemble, you will need to keep VERY accurate records of what you pulled apart and what bearings and pistons and cams and everything was sitting when you pulled it apart to give a decent recognition of what happened to the previous build. there are some very key things to be looking for to gain knowledge about the motor your working with. some of them that are very minute to someone not well experienced.
here are a few of the simple options (from the little information provided)
you said that you have stock sized pistons in this motor, that means that whomever built this block started with a brand new block and did not overbore the cylinders...if the cylinder wall is PERFECT, you can reuse the stock sized pistons/get new rings if needed...or if the pistons are damaged, you can go with stock bore pistons for the rebuild
option #2
if the cylinder wall is scraped (like somebody said earlier, run your finder on the inside of the cylinder wall, if you can FEEL a scratch in the scorring that you can visibly see), then the cylinder wall must be oversized to obtain a perfectly smooth beginning surface for the next rebuild- this would then of course call for using an oversized piston, typically .020 over will be enough material removed to obtain a new starting cylinder wall finish
I have pm'd you and given you a detailed list of your options, let me know what you would like to do, good luck
TODD
you said that you have stock sized pistons in this motor, that means that whomever built this block started with a brand new block and did not overbore the cylinders...if the cylinder wall is PERFECT, you can reuse the stock sized pistons/get new rings if needed...or if the pistons are damaged, you can go with stock bore pistons for the rebuild
option #2
if the cylinder wall is scraped (like somebody said earlier, run your finder on the inside of the cylinder wall, if you can FEEL a scratch in the scorring that you can visibly see), then the cylinder wall must be oversized to obtain a perfectly smooth beginning surface for the next rebuild- this would then of course call for using an oversized piston, typically .020 over will be enough material removed to obtain a new starting cylinder wall finish
I have pm'd you and given you a detailed list of your options, let me know what you would like to do, good luck
TODD
Originally Posted by 350z-900whp
yes, who is it???
The VQ cams and variable timing are so intricate on this motor that I saw a very competent builder(he builds the top 2JZ motors out of central florida) have to take step by step pictures of how everything was disassembled. If you aren't capable of puting a machined block back together from start to finish then you have no business taking this motor apart. What if you were to lose those pins that go into the variable cams? I wonder how much a new one costs, lol.
Originally Posted by daytona350z
hi, im the guy with the yellow corolla in dan's shop. i was there when they delivered the engine. just wanted to know since the topic sounded so familiar.
I'm still lost here. Your posts are so hard to understand you might as well have translated it in german. This is what i gathered from OTHER members on this topic. You are rebuilding the motor and from what you see, you scratched one sleeve and are deciding whether or not to have a .20 overbore. Correct?
Originally Posted by 350z-900whp
i don't know what do you mean by main bearings?? but yes, there is no hole in the block.
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