well... in conjunction with my engine build i have planned... i decided, well hell. i best get the cast manifolds for my PE TT kit... besides.. Howard@Technosquare suspects that i have a hairline fracture in my passengerside exhaust manifold after i installed my JIC ypipe back in November..

well. after a fat chunk of cash later and waiting a few months for my contact at PE to come thru..i pray to god these hold up when i'm racing/drifting better than my SS manifolds. here they are:



driver side.




passenger side






comparison to the SS manifolds (picts from 2003)









next up.. water lines for my IHI turbos (tanx for the instructions Gurgen)

 

very nice, they look great!

 

I contacted PE matter of fact today and spoke with Chris regarding the 1820 turbos as an upgrade for standard kit. He informed me that in his opinion that those will not fit without doing some modification. We've been talking about the new kit coming out here in a couple of months, that will "SUPPOSEDLY" be able to make in upwards of 800+hp without any problems. These will also use ball bearing turbos. I really thought about selling my kit, but now I don't know if I want to shell out another 8k+. I figured I should be able to make 650-700rwhp with this kit(might be pushing it some).

 

Cut your nails...

just kidding...lookin good and beafy..the manifolds

 

those stainless manifolds were thin wall, that's where the weakness is.

 

well. if you're aiming for extreme high hp#s .. yea. the 1420s arent your best option imho- i'm only building for 550 rwhp range..

just get the 1820s and have a shop custom weld you a set of new manifolds..

 

There are people that have made over 630rwhp with them, but I don't know to what extent there modifications where though.

 

WTF you still use diskettes?

 

Looks great!

 

Good deal, Ches...Now you definitely don't need to worry about them cracking... not for 100,000 miles at least.

See you Monday...

 

^^ just call me.. Tadashi said he'll help--



you think its safe to tap an EGT into the manifold? or should i just do the turbo down pipe?

 

if it's cast I see no issues with losing strength.

 

Yes I think it is. I neglected to do that for a few reasons.... but I definitely wanted to. Richey did weld on the egt probe right after the turbo, but the temps are way off. I'd put it on the #3 preferably (or at least #1) cylinder as close to the heads (flange) as possible, since the manifold is coolest there (since it's closest to the block and more heat is dissipated away), and on the bottom of the runner, since the forces there are compresive....

Gurgen

 

wouldnt tapping into the manifolds cause structural issues long term?

i'd hate to spend the money again to get another set of manifolds...

 

As long as you choose a good spot, it wont have any ill effects. but considering that area is pretty cramped and you want the sensor to read as a collective of the bank, the extension housing isnt a bad idea...

 

Cheston: very nice manifolds. Good luck on the build. For what it is worth, and reading differently on this board, AutoMeter states on their EGT that the sensor should be downstream from the turbo. Also, if you run into any issues etc with the water lines let me know because I am for sure doing it this spring.

 

hey chebostso How much do the cast iron run.............

 

Looks Great

I am considering buying a used PE system...but the kit comes with used SS manifolds

If you don't mind me asking,

1> How much $$ were the new manifolds

2> How long did you have to wait for them


thanks

 

cast-manifold from PE cost 1600 for pair.

i think you can send or exchange with them your SS-manifold and get cast-manifold for much cheaper..

 

Tapping the manifolds has been done, but since these nice new pieces are over $1000/set (I imagine Cheston got a nice price break), I wouldnt attempt to tap them....too much risk IMHO. We place the EGT prob on the DP, as close as possible to the exhuast housing of the turbo.