Turbos and driving characteristics
Turbos and driving characteristics
Hey guys,
I am currently looking for a F/I setup for my Z within the next few months. I have done tons of research on these forums and others, and am still having trouble deciding what will fit my needs best. It seems like all are good choices with tons of pros and cons, but I think with a good install/tune as well as the neccessary supporting parts, my setup would be reliable. That being said, it reall boils down to money, and the over performance and quality of the kit. I will be using this car for street driving and track events (mostly drifting). I would like to hear from those whom have had the chance to drive a variety of different setups on the Z...even S/C setups. I looking for a compare/contrast in driving characteristics such as spool, low-mid range, response, top end, power deliverey, smoothness, drivability, track experiences, traction issues, useable powerband etc...
I'd also like to discuss the quality of each turbo/ S/C kit overall design. Does one kit have better design over the other in certain areas, or maybe just could have been designed better?(intercooler, turbos, s/c unit, belts, fuel system, ECU, piping, turbo placement and heat issues, lines, bov, etc) any why?
I know some of this had been covered in the past, but I have done alot of research, and would appreciate if anyone would be able to help me with my questions more directly. I have literally spent weeks reading, but would like to hear more in depth information about the above issues.
Thanks
I am currently looking for a F/I setup for my Z within the next few months. I have done tons of research on these forums and others, and am still having trouble deciding what will fit my needs best. It seems like all are good choices with tons of pros and cons, but I think with a good install/tune as well as the neccessary supporting parts, my setup would be reliable. That being said, it reall boils down to money, and the over performance and quality of the kit. I will be using this car for street driving and track events (mostly drifting). I would like to hear from those whom have had the chance to drive a variety of different setups on the Z...even S/C setups. I looking for a compare/contrast in driving characteristics such as spool, low-mid range, response, top end, power deliverey, smoothness, drivability, track experiences, traction issues, useable powerband etc...
I'd also like to discuss the quality of each turbo/ S/C kit overall design. Does one kit have better design over the other in certain areas, or maybe just could have been designed better?(intercooler, turbos, s/c unit, belts, fuel system, ECU, piping, turbo placement and heat issues, lines, bov, etc) any why?
I know some of this had been covered in the past, but I have done alot of research, and would appreciate if anyone would be able to help me with my questions more directly. I have literally spent weeks reading, but would like to hear more in depth information about the above issues.
Thanks
how much do you have to spend or are ok with spending?
this is so hard to answer. I might say one thing, but someone else will jump in and disagree because there is no black or white answer.
the people who will be most likely to be quick to answer are probably venders hoping you'll buy whatever kit from them - and they usually have sound advice too like any of the knowledgable people here
my advice is wait until you've spent months reading stuff before deciding on a kit, not just weeks. You'll make a much better informed decision later on and know exactly what you're getting into.
this is so hard to answer. I might say one thing, but someone else will jump in and disagree because there is no black or white answer.
the people who will be most likely to be quick to answer are probably venders hoping you'll buy whatever kit from them - and they usually have sound advice too like any of the knowledgable people here
my advice is wait until you've spent months reading stuff before deciding on a kit, not just weeks. You'll make a much better informed decision later on and know exactly what you're getting into.
Last edited by sentry65; Mar 21, 2006 at 02:04 PM.
i have run the ati before and am now currently running a greddy tt with built motor. most all my previous experience has been with built n/a or s/c on other cars. i do really like the linear power of n/a and s/c. but hard to beat the power tt can make in the 350z chassis.
your reliability will come down to the installer and tuner. one installer might see a possible heat/wire issue and heat wrap a harness and another might miss it. most problems are due to things so simple.
big question is your power goals. also the realization that there is a good chance your power goals will raise in the future. so getting something with some headroom to get more power could be desirable.
if i had it my way and the 350Z engine compartment had more room, i would like to use a larger ati or vortech compressor, but there just isn't any room, unless you start to make room, lol. but that is how i like my power delivery, instant and reliably progressive. if power is your main concern, go with a tt set up. many members are using all the different kits available with great luck. no matter what you choose, you will instantly be a fan of what ever f/i option you pick, for the fact your car will finally be fast and the way nissan should have made it.
your reliability will come down to the installer and tuner. one installer might see a possible heat/wire issue and heat wrap a harness and another might miss it. most problems are due to things so simple.
big question is your power goals. also the realization that there is a good chance your power goals will raise in the future. so getting something with some headroom to get more power could be desirable.
if i had it my way and the 350Z engine compartment had more room, i would like to use a larger ati or vortech compressor, but there just isn't any room, unless you start to make room, lol. but that is how i like my power delivery, instant and reliably progressive. if power is your main concern, go with a tt set up. many members are using all the different kits available with great luck. no matter what you choose, you will instantly be a fan of what ever f/i option you pick, for the fact your car will finally be fast and the way nissan should have made it.
It's possible for big SC power, but few people are doing it at this time and at the end of the day will probably cost you slightly more money than a TT setup, but it would be an awesome setup for certain types of driving
you can upgrade the vortech blower itself and go for smaller pullies and a larger intercooler. Some members here are shooting for over 500whp on their vortech with a built engine - though every part on their car has been upgraded from the original vortech kit. One guy is using 10.5 CR pistons and full race gas. Increased timing and CR are some of the big ways to gain power with a SC and needs race gas. But man that's gotta be an instant responding motor
you can upgrade the vortech blower itself and go for smaller pullies and a larger intercooler. Some members here are shooting for over 500whp on their vortech with a built engine - though every part on their car has been upgraded from the original vortech kit. One guy is using 10.5 CR pistons and full race gas. Increased timing and CR are some of the big ways to gain power with a SC and needs race gas. But man that's gotta be an instant responding motor
Let's not go back into the "what I own" is better discussion these all turn into. Main advice is find a place that knows what they are doing and do what's necessary to keep it reliable. Most FI kits at this point are good and will put the power down. Now it's just install and tuning.
yeah find a local (or not so local if you can make a trip) shop that has some experience working on the Z and for sure has a very very good mechanic and tuner.
A load based dyno is preferable for tuning like the dyno dynamics dyno.
Make sure you have an A/F gauge and boost gauge at the minimum.
you'll need a clutch that can handle the added power. You'll probably want some form of a return fuel system if you're making close to 400whp. The APS kits come with a solution that works. Other kits don't, but you can get a better aftermarket one anyway.
make sure to get the car tuned. Don't assume the piggyback or ECU flash that comes with the kit will be spot on - even if your car is stock I'd be skeptical cause you never know and your engine's life is in your hands
IMO I'd rather go with a safer lower hp/cost kit (stillen, vortech, APS single turbo, turbonetics) and spend some money on heat management things if you're going to be doing some road course driving than a big bad kit
A load based dyno is preferable for tuning like the dyno dynamics dyno.
Make sure you have an A/F gauge and boost gauge at the minimum.
you'll need a clutch that can handle the added power. You'll probably want some form of a return fuel system if you're making close to 400whp. The APS kits come with a solution that works. Other kits don't, but you can get a better aftermarket one anyway.
make sure to get the car tuned. Don't assume the piggyback or ECU flash that comes with the kit will be spot on - even if your car is stock I'd be skeptical cause you never know and your engine's life is in your hands
IMO I'd rather go with a safer lower hp/cost kit (stillen, vortech, APS single turbo, turbonetics) and spend some money on heat management things if you're going to be doing some road course driving than a big bad kit
Last edited by sentry65; Mar 21, 2006 at 02:58 PM.
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I can only speak to the SC on the Z. Stillen SC has an almost flat torque band so it makes the V6 Z motor feel like a V8. By that I mean you can pretty much shift into any gear and no need to wind out the motor to make it zip. I mean I don't like having to shift at 4000 rpm just to keep up with grandma in her SS Impala in the next lane 
. Downside of the stillen SC is its gonna cost you about 1400 for a nice hood and the hood still is not going to have a fit even close to stock. The other downside is that you cannot adjust the boost without changing the pulley like a turbo. Upside of the stage II stillen SC is that it is CARB legal and low boost soes yur engine should survive. Or maybe not.
. Downside of the stillen SC is its gonna cost you about 1400 for a nice hood and the hood still is not going to have a fit even close to stock. The other downside is that you cannot adjust the boost without changing the pulley like a turbo. Upside of the stage II stillen SC is that it is CARB legal and low boost soes yur engine should survive. Or maybe not.
yeah stillen and vortech are the only CARB legal choices at the moment. Everyone else is trying to become CARB legal. IMO I think the JWT TT, ATI SC, or HKS SC kit will probably be next out of the rest of the kits
Last edited by sentry65; Mar 21, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
I think the process for deciding on what kit to get should go like this:
Step 1: How much money do I have to spend?
Step 1A: Realize that only 1/2 to 2/3 of what you have to spend will go toward the actual kit. The rest will go towards ancillaries like gauges, fuel systems, tuning, troubleshooting, etc.
Step 2: Given the constraints of step 1, how much power do I want to make?
Step 2A: If you have less than 15K total to spend, your power goals are constrained by the stock engine components.
Step 3: Given the constraints of steps 1/2, what kind of complexity am I willing to take on?
Step 3A: In order of complexity, your choices are S/C, ST, TT. S/C lives entirely on the intake side of the engine, ST's have to converge exhaust streams from both cylinder banks, and TTs just have more mechanical components in general.
Step 4: Given the constraints of Steps 1/2/3, what kind of performance am I looking for?
Step 4A: S/C gives linear power delivery where power is somewhat related to engine RPM. STs and TTs will acheive and maintain a desired boost level at some mid-rpm range point, depending on kit.
As for discussing the qualities of each kit, the dead horse has now decayed into a skeleton somewhere in the searchable archives of the forum. I'd start there to research the kits that fit your budget/power goals/acceptable risk/performance goals.
Step 1: How much money do I have to spend?
Step 1A: Realize that only 1/2 to 2/3 of what you have to spend will go toward the actual kit. The rest will go towards ancillaries like gauges, fuel systems, tuning, troubleshooting, etc.
Step 2: Given the constraints of step 1, how much power do I want to make?
Step 2A: If you have less than 15K total to spend, your power goals are constrained by the stock engine components.
Step 3: Given the constraints of steps 1/2, what kind of complexity am I willing to take on?
Step 3A: In order of complexity, your choices are S/C, ST, TT. S/C lives entirely on the intake side of the engine, ST's have to converge exhaust streams from both cylinder banks, and TTs just have more mechanical components in general.
Step 4: Given the constraints of Steps 1/2/3, what kind of performance am I looking for?
Step 4A: S/C gives linear power delivery where power is somewhat related to engine RPM. STs and TTs will acheive and maintain a desired boost level at some mid-rpm range point, depending on kit.
As for discussing the qualities of each kit, the dead horse has now decayed into a skeleton somewhere in the searchable archives of the forum. I'd start there to research the kits that fit your budget/power goals/acceptable risk/performance goals.
Originally Posted by sentry65
how much do you have to spend or are ok with spending?
this is so hard to answer. I might say one thing, but someone else will jump in and disagree because there is no black or white answer.
the people who will be most likely to be quick to answer are probably venders hoping you'll buy whatever kit from them - and they usually have sound advice too like any of the knowledgable people here
my advice is wait until you've spent months reading stuff before deciding on a kit, not just weeks. You'll make a much better informed decision later on and know exactly what you're getting into.
this is so hard to answer. I might say one thing, but someone else will jump in and disagree because there is no black or white answer.
the people who will be most likely to be quick to answer are probably venders hoping you'll buy whatever kit from them - and they usually have sound advice too like any of the knowledgable people here
my advice is wait until you've spent months reading stuff before deciding on a kit, not just weeks. You'll make a much better informed decision later on and know exactly what you're getting into.
Originally Posted by overZealous1
i have run the ati before and am now currently running a greddy tt with built motor. most all my previous experience has been with built n/a or s/c on other cars. i do really like the linear power of n/a and s/c. but hard to beat the power tt can make in the 350z chassis.
your reliability will come down to the installer and tuner. one installer might see a possible heat/wire issue and heat wrap a harness and another might miss it. most problems are due to things so simple.
big question is your power goals. also the realization that there is a good chance your power goals will raise in the future. so getting something with some headroom to get more power could be desirable.
if i had it my way and the 350Z engine compartment had more room, i would like to use a larger ati or vortech compressor, but there just isn't any room, unless you start to make room, lol. but that is how i like my power delivery, instant and reliably progressive. if power is your main concern, go with a tt set up. many members are using all the different kits available with great luck. no matter what you choose, you will instantly be a fan of what ever f/i option you pick, for the fact your car will finally be fast and the way nissan should have made it.
your reliability will come down to the installer and tuner. one installer might see a possible heat/wire issue and heat wrap a harness and another might miss it. most problems are due to things so simple.
big question is your power goals. also the realization that there is a good chance your power goals will raise in the future. so getting something with some headroom to get more power could be desirable.
if i had it my way and the 350Z engine compartment had more room, i would like to use a larger ati or vortech compressor, but there just isn't any room, unless you start to make room, lol. but that is how i like my power delivery, instant and reliably progressive. if power is your main concern, go with a tt set up. many members are using all the different kits available with great luck. no matter what you choose, you will instantly be a fan of what ever f/i option you pick, for the fact your car will finally be fast and the way nissan should have made it.
) on my Z. I live in memphis, TN, so I might get Sharif @ Forged Internals to do the install/tune seeing that he is one of the best and not too terribly far away. As far as power goals. I do mostly drifting events right now, so I woult like at least a solid 400whp/TQ. I dont need alot of power for those events, but I know later down the road, I might want more. But, I just dont see myself wanting more than approx 550whp. I think anything more than that is meant for a drag car. I am not a professional driver so I dont think I would ever need anything more than 550whp.
Originally Posted by Beer Goggles
Let's not go back into the "what I own" is better discussion these all turn into. Main advice is find a place that knows what they are doing and do what's necessary to keep it reliable. Most FI kits at this point are good and will put the power down. Now it's just install and tuning.
Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah find a local (or not so local if you can make a trip) shop that has some experience working on the Z and for sure has a very very good mechanic and tuner.
A load based dyno is preferable for tuning like the dyno dynamics dyno.
Make sure you have an A/F gauge and boost gauge at the minimum.
you'll need a clutch that can handle the added power. You'll probably want some form of a return fuel system if you're making close to 400whp. The APS kits come with a solution that works. Other kits don't, but you can get a better aftermarket one anyway.
make sure to get the car tuned. Don't assume the piggyback or ECU flash that comes with the kit will be spot on - even if your car is stock I'd be skeptical cause you never know and your engine's life is in your hands
IMO I'd rather go with a safer lower hp/cost kit (stillen, vortech, APS single turbo, turbonetics) and spend some money on heat management things if you're going to be doing some road course driving than a big bad kit
A load based dyno is preferable for tuning like the dyno dynamics dyno.
Make sure you have an A/F gauge and boost gauge at the minimum.
you'll need a clutch that can handle the added power. You'll probably want some form of a return fuel system if you're making close to 400whp. The APS kits come with a solution that works. Other kits don't, but you can get a better aftermarket one anyway.
make sure to get the car tuned. Don't assume the piggyback or ECU flash that comes with the kit will be spot on - even if your car is stock I'd be skeptical cause you never know and your engine's life is in your hands
IMO I'd rather go with a safer lower hp/cost kit (stillen, vortech, APS single turbo, turbonetics) and spend some money on heat management things if you're going to be doing some road course driving than a big bad kit
As far as the fuel systems, this is were I get a bit confused. Im not 100% sure which kits come with the correct fuel system to properly support the 400+ HP. It seems like from what I have read, that CJ-M and AAM full fuel return kits are the most complete and best way of doing supporting it. Correct me if I am wrong, but none of the kits come with a complete fuel return except the new TN 1.5 kit that will be released soon.
I also agree with the last statement you said. Thats why I am highly considering the Turbonetics tuner or 1.5 kit and spending the rest of the money on supporting parts, or possible saving up more and building.
Im am definately not one to go the cheap route, but at the same time I like to do things efficiently, yet do it right the first time around. I dont want to cut corners just to save money. I dont mind spending the money, its just whether or not its going to be worth it or not for that amount of extra money.
Originally Posted by MulhollandDrive
I can only speak to the SC on the Z. Stillen SC has an almost flat torque band so it makes the V6 Z motor feel like a V8. By that I mean you can pretty much shift into any gear and no need to wind out the motor to make it zip. I mean I don't like having to shift at 4000 rpm just to keep up with grandma in her SS Impala in the next lane . Downside of the stillen SC is its gonna cost you about 1400 for a nice hood and the hood still is not going to have a fit even close to stock. The other downside is that you cannot adjust the boost without changing the pulley like a turbo. Upside of the stage II stillen SC is that it is CARB legal and low boost soes yur engine should survive. Or maybe not.
. Downside of the stillen SC is its gonna cost you about 1400 for a nice hood and the hood still is not going to have a fit even close to stock. The other downside is that you cannot adjust the boost without changing the pulley like a turbo. Upside of the stage II stillen SC is that it is CARB legal and low boost soes yur engine should survive. Or maybe not.
Originally Posted by kcobean
I think the process for deciding on what kit to get should go like this:
Step 1: How much money do I have to spend?
Step 1A: Realize that only 1/2 to 2/3 of what you have to spend will go toward the actual kit. The rest will go towards ancillaries like gauges, fuel systems, tuning, troubleshooting, etc.
Step 2: Given the constraints of step 1, how much power do I want to make?
Step 2A: If you have less than 15K total to spend, your power goals are constrained by the stock engine components.
Step 3: Given the constraints of steps 1/2, what kind of complexity am I willing to take on?
Step 3A: In order of complexity, your choices are S/C, ST, TT. S/C lives entirely on the intake side of the engine, ST's have to converge exhaust streams from both cylinder banks, and TTs just have more mechanical components in general.
Step 4: Given the constraints of Steps 1/2/3, what kind of performance am I looking for?
Step 4A: S/C gives linear power delivery where power is somewhat related to engine RPM. STs and TTs will acheive and maintain a desired boost level at some mid-rpm range point, depending on kit.
As for discussing the qualities of each kit, the dead horse has now decayed into a skeleton somewhere in the searchable archives of the forum. I'd start there to research the kits that fit your budget/power goals/acceptable risk/performance goals.
Step 1: How much money do I have to spend?
Step 1A: Realize that only 1/2 to 2/3 of what you have to spend will go toward the actual kit. The rest will go towards ancillaries like gauges, fuel systems, tuning, troubleshooting, etc.
Step 2: Given the constraints of step 1, how much power do I want to make?
Step 2A: If you have less than 15K total to spend, your power goals are constrained by the stock engine components.
Step 3: Given the constraints of steps 1/2, what kind of complexity am I willing to take on?
Step 3A: In order of complexity, your choices are S/C, ST, TT. S/C lives entirely on the intake side of the engine, ST's have to converge exhaust streams from both cylinder banks, and TTs just have more mechanical components in general.
Step 4: Given the constraints of Steps 1/2/3, what kind of performance am I looking for?
Step 4A: S/C gives linear power delivery where power is somewhat related to engine RPM. STs and TTs will acheive and maintain a desired boost level at some mid-rpm range point, depending on kit.
As for discussing the qualities of each kit, the dead horse has now decayed into a skeleton somewhere in the searchable archives of the forum. I'd start there to research the kits that fit your budget/power goals/acceptable risk/performance goals.
1) Dont really have a budget, but at the same time I dont have all the money in the world. I like to do things effeciently without cutting corners to save money. That being said, no matter how much it is, I will take it for what its worth. If its over what I planned to spend, I will just take another month or two to save up for it
2)For right now, I would ike at least 375 on low boost map for street/daily driving use. 400-450 tune map for track use. If I plan to go with the Utec, I will set up all 4 maps for different situations/wheather conditions, or whatever neccessary. Down the road if I felt the need for more power, I wouldnt need more than 550whp. I think anything more than that might be too much for what I use the car for. So, that would be my limit. I know around 450 it would be a good idea to upgrade internals...also with the stress of drift and other track days, I might need internals at a lower HP level, but im not sure, thats why I am here asking these questions.
3) MY last car was a 240sx with an SR20 swap so I am fairly familiar with turbo setups. I do not have any formal education of being a mechanic, but I have done most of the work myself on my past car. I also work at a Honda/Nissan dealership, so if need be I can get help. But...at track events if something goes wrong, its seems like the S/c or TN single turbo would be the easiest to diagnose and fix problems.
4) This is an answer I am still searching for. Seeing some of these dynos where alot of these guys around making around 300-350wtq by 3500-4000rpm...its seeems like that would be a massive amounts of midrange to propel me through a drift, or initiate drifts without being at the top of the rev range. In drifting, sometimes a burst of TQ is needed in some circumstances, but it also helps to have smooth power delivery as well to maintain a smooth consistant drift. IMO, as of now, I thinnk a turbo will achieve this and what I am after. Correct me if I am wrong...
Again thanks for your questions and help. Please analyze my answers and tell me what you think
I think the best street turbo kit is the PE kit. For one, the turbos are evenly matched for the big torquey V6 motor. With ball bearing turbos you have great response and excellent top end power. The only downside I see with this kit is the price. But over the last 6 moths or so, it has come down quite a bit.
I have raced other turbo Z owners(greddy kit) and from a 20-40 punch, I easily pull about a half a car to a car on them and keep the lead. I have dynoed at 416rwhp and 430 ftlb of torque with a conservative 7.5lbs of boost.
I have raced other turbo Z owners(greddy kit) and from a 20-40 punch, I easily pull about a half a car to a car on them and keep the lead. I have dynoed at 416rwhp and 430 ftlb of torque with a conservative 7.5lbs of boost.
Originally Posted by dank311
Great questions and thanks for your help! I will try and answer them the best I can...
1) Dont really have a budget, but at the same time I dont have all the money in the world. I like to do things effeciently without cutting corners to save money. That being said, no matter how much it is, I will take it for what its worth. If its over what I planned to spend, I will just take another month or two to save up for it
2)For right now, I would ike at least 375 on low boost map for street/daily driving use. 400-450 tune map for track use. If I plan to go with the Utec, I will set up all 4 maps for different situations/wheather conditions, or whatever neccessary. Down the road if I felt the need for more power, I wouldnt need more than 550whp. I think anything more than that might be too much for what I use the car for. So, that would be my limit. I know around 450 it would be a good idea to upgrade internals...also with the stress of drift and other track days, I might need internals at a lower HP level, but im not sure, thats why I am here asking these questions.
3) MY last car was a 240sx with an SR20 swap so I am fairly familiar with turbo setups. I do not have any formal education of being a mechanic, but I have done most of the work myself on my past car. I also work at a Honda/Nissan dealership, so if need be I can get help. But...at track events if something goes wrong, its seems like the S/c or TN single turbo would be the easiest to diagnose and fix problems.
4) This is an answer I am still searching for. Seeing some of these dynos where alot of these guys around making around 300-350wtq by 3500-4000rpm...its seeems like that would be a massive amounts of midrange to propel me through a drift, or initiate drifts without being at the top of the rev range. In drifting, sometimes a burst of TQ is needed in some circumstances, but it also helps to have smooth power delivery as well to maintain a smooth consistant drift. IMO, as of now, I thinnk a turbo will achieve this and what I am after. Correct me if I am wrong...
Again thanks for your questions and help. Please analyze my answers and tell me what you think
1) Dont really have a budget, but at the same time I dont have all the money in the world. I like to do things effeciently without cutting corners to save money. That being said, no matter how much it is, I will take it for what its worth. If its over what I planned to spend, I will just take another month or two to save up for it
2)For right now, I would ike at least 375 on low boost map for street/daily driving use. 400-450 tune map for track use. If I plan to go with the Utec, I will set up all 4 maps for different situations/wheather conditions, or whatever neccessary. Down the road if I felt the need for more power, I wouldnt need more than 550whp. I think anything more than that might be too much for what I use the car for. So, that would be my limit. I know around 450 it would be a good idea to upgrade internals...also with the stress of drift and other track days, I might need internals at a lower HP level, but im not sure, thats why I am here asking these questions.
3) MY last car was a 240sx with an SR20 swap so I am fairly familiar with turbo setups. I do not have any formal education of being a mechanic, but I have done most of the work myself on my past car. I also work at a Honda/Nissan dealership, so if need be I can get help. But...at track events if something goes wrong, its seems like the S/c or TN single turbo would be the easiest to diagnose and fix problems.
4) This is an answer I am still searching for. Seeing some of these dynos where alot of these guys around making around 300-350wtq by 3500-4000rpm...its seeems like that would be a massive amounts of midrange to propel me through a drift, or initiate drifts without being at the top of the rev range. In drifting, sometimes a burst of TQ is needed in some circumstances, but it also helps to have smooth power delivery as well to maintain a smooth consistant drift. IMO, as of now, I thinnk a turbo will achieve this and what I am after. Correct me if I am wrong...
Again thanks for your questions and help. Please analyze my answers and tell me what you think
Maybe the guys who have actually done it can chime in, but I'd imagine that the difference between 375 WHP and 550 WHP is probably somewhere between $10 and $15K, including but not limited to the built motor, radiator, clutch, flywheel, axles and a host of other things I don't know of. If you're serious about the 550 WHP goal (which rolls off the tongue real easy but is an entirely different beast in practice), you'll need a TT setup, and I think most of the guys here who have reached those power levels are using the GReddy kit. You obviously don't have to do it all at once, which is good for the wallet, but a well tuned GReddy setup with fuel system and all the necessary components (and labor) is going to run in the $10-$12k neighborhood (Again, I'm guesstimating here). Shoot for 550 and you're looking at closer to $25K all said and done. That a whole 'nother car.
Would it be fair to say that if you wanna go with a turbo/twin turbo setup, that one should go ahead and budget for a built engine? There are pages and pages in this forum describing people throwing a rod or blowing a hole in the bottom end on their stock motors.
The arguments I have heard thus far (for blowing a motor) are that either a person was running too much boost, or that they were not tuned right.
My apologies if I am hijacking a thread...
The arguments I have heard thus far (for blowing a motor) are that either a person was running too much boost, or that they were not tuned right.
My apologies if I am hijacking a thread...