I think it is clear to understand but I was talking about the AEBS shortblock and its stroke ratio is not 1.77:1 as u said.

 

Darton sleeved blocks can take 1000whp, but the 7/16th ARP head studs will most certainly not.

Dont forget...its not just a matter of the short block and heads. There is a critical component in between: Head Gasket and studs. Lifting heads is a true risk above 700whp with 7/16th inch ARP head studs. If it only it were so simply.

 

i agree with Sharif. Use O rings, get rid of the head gasket

 

huh? I never suggested that!

 

Even then I have to disagree with you, because there are DSMs that have 1.55:1 or so rod to stroke ratios revving out to 9000RPM just fine.

 

8000rpm will be a cake walk for a properly built VQ35. The question is, will cams, headwork, and valves provide enough airfow to sustain power all the way to 8000rpm.

 

So if the arp head studs wont with stand more than 700hp what head studs should i get?

 

Machine in oversized ARP head studs?

 

An easy solution, and product will be ready in 4 weeks. They are being custom made right now.

 

So I guess that you are doing the what you have called "dynoqueen turbo" upgrade on your JWT kit... The power curve of a JWT kit begins to taper after 5800... Maybe with cams you may make more then really cool sound revving that far up.

 

Uhhhh noooo.... I'll be keeping my current turbos.... 500-550 whp.... on Pump Gas.... With Springs and Cams, maybe some minor porting. And obviously a tune... I'd like a peak HP between 7250-7500. Reving out to 8k Currently on my bone stock heads and a base tune @ 6.8psi my peak whp of 418 is @ 6250.

For wright now I'm real happy with my power band and the way the car is running...

 

I hardly say that with many cc 4000 or 3800,torque spin might be a terror for 400m time trial.I mean that with more torgue less traction but better driving allround-no lag,and i mean it with all these small turbo kits out there you are gonna have NO lag.

But if the plan is to go fot T4 turbos and 22" wheels then it is good idea to start up building a 4litr motor

 

Hello,

I can verify...Making Big Big horsepower on a VQ35 (or any motor V8, V10, RB or 2JZ) is a chore and expensive for anyone...although not impossible.

$$$:
Expensive for you CAN'T just consider the motor, stroke, bore etc...and turbos. PLEASE Think About it...Clutch and Fly, Cams, Heads, Suspension to keep you stable, Brakes to stop you, and Tires to grip. They all have to match the power and this is done rarely.

NOTE: If you don't know, there is a tremendous difference between 450 WHP and 650+WHP. For Sure - For Sure - For Sure and everything starts to matter - Everything - at this level.

As for motors or statements of 1000+ WHP, don't believe everything you hear or read. A motor build handling power is one thing or at least talking about it, YET actually making it is another thing regardless if you can Redline at 8000-10000 RPM. Hell - I would rather make the power at lower RPM's for it is more useable torque with less pressure and stress on the motor.

QUESTION:
Where are all the 1000 WHP cars with the 1000 WHP motor builds??? Would love to see the dynos and list of parts to do so. Easy to talk about, not easy to reproduce...

500 WHP:
Realistically, from experience 500 WHP is the pinnacle WHP level. It is extremely fast and useable. It is perfect.

However, 650+ is fun and has a huge grin factor, yet not useable anywhere except the dyno and the drag strip. I am making my G35C an 800 WHP daily driving but I have a shop.

DRIVING:
I wouldn't let anyone drive it without me in the car for it is just too unpredictable, expensive, and dangerous. Alot of power.

So my $.02 is concentrate on making choices that you can use and afford and 500 WHP is perfect IMO.

Good luck.

M

 

I totally agree wit mraturbo. Go for a goal that's realistic, and that you can put every ponie to the ground safely. Whats the point in having 700 or 800 horsepower if you can only use half of it on the street with street tires, and without having to get your clutch replaced every weekend?

 

with the right intake manifold... you know it will

 

for extra safety you can run 1/2" studs or L19 studs.

 

Has anyone o-ringed a vq35 yet? Im starting to consider it.

 

I think he might get scared cruising at 100mph and floor it w/o a downshift and have the car spin tire on the frwy and easily done at 18psi on a Z

 

Thanks ReV2Red.

Would like to see some of you rev your cars to 8000-10000. Let me know if the cams, valves, and heads stay together. It is always fun when you have sooo much pressure and airflow the Cams Actually Break!

Goodluck.

M

 

I dont know of any cams that can make that much power at thoughs rpms. You might have to do a custom regrind.