Awesome design, west. Would you be willing to make something like that for the G?

 

I used the needle off of the stock VOLTS gauge but had to put an extension on it because the needle shaft from the mechanical boost gauge used sits further back in the cluster than the VOLTS gauge movement. I used a TomMotorsport vac/boost gauge I bought off of ebay and remove the movement assy from the housing by cutting it open with a cutting wheel on my Dremel tool. The backing is cutom gauge faces made by Alex at BlackCat Custom Gauges. No pics during install unless Westpak took them. I know he plummed the line off of the in-cabin boost controller. Where he plummed that line through the firewall I don't know, you'd have to ask him.

Greg

 

If you want to send me the appropriate cluster from a G35, i'd be glad to take a look at it.

Greg

 

Wel done.

 

so greg are you gonna pu a kit together? to send out with instructions and we just supply a certain type of boost gauges!

 

To clarify things, Greg gave me the assembled cluster so I just removed the center console and removed the stock 3-gauge cluster and bolted in the one he gave me. I am sure everyone can do that but I can explain.

I was going to take some night video for more clarity but I am hearing the fireworks and decided to leave the Z in the garage, I will do it tomorrow.

 

I haven't decided yet but since I've got $300.00 sunk into the prototype I might do the conversions myself; that way at least I'd be able to charge a nominal labor fee per unit . I still want to try and tweak a few details first. I might redo the boost gauge face to go from 20 In.Hg to 10 PSI instead. This would put the "0" on the scale straight up with the car off and would help prevent the needle going off of the scale during idle. I would still offer the original type that goes to 15 PSI for those wanting it. I'm open to all and any suggestions.

 

That looks awsome. Very OEM like. How accurate is the gauge?

 

How accurate is the gauge? Good question. Probably no better/worse than any other mechanical aftermarket gauge and certainly no worse than an electrical OEM gauge if it was offered.

 

Here is another clip, not at night but it was better since it was overcast

Right Click here and save as

 

clip didnt work!

said i didnt have correct codec, yet the first one was fine?

 

didnt work for me either...

 

Try again, it should work now.

 

looks like the boost goes higher on the gauge than the profec EO-1.

 

I tried to keep an eye on it this afternoon and it looks like it is about 1.5-2 psi higher, it is worse when I just do a quick accel rather than a sustained run. That might be in the way the e01 reads/displays the boost, I know on the peak display you can chose between peak and sustained peak which is when the boost is held for a period of time rather than just a peak.

 

For those that have followed this thread, you know that my intent was to create my version of a factory boost gauge if Nissan offered the 350Z turbo'd from the factory. Due to the fact that I'm using a mechanical movement for the gauge, mainly for cost reasons (an electric Autometer vac/boost gauge with MAP sensor would be spot-on accurate but would also cost $200.00 vs. $35~50.00 for a mechanical gauge), there will most likely be some error in accuracy. I can get around this, per se, by elimintaing the individual 1 PSI hash marks and just have marks every 5 PSI. The S130/Z31 turbo gauges did not have 1 PSI increments and were in Mm.Hg which was really useless but then again the idea was to give a visual frame of reference on a scale which it did just fine. So my question is this: If I redo the gauge face and eliminate the 1 PSI increments on the boost scale, would this turn anyone off from buying one of these conversions? Worst case is that no one wants one and I still make one for myself when I go F/I TT in the future. I will try and get some sample pics of a revised face to post. Thanks for any and all input.

Greg

 

only thing I don't like is that the vac doesn't go down past 15. Other than that I think it looks really clean. And like you said, it's not like we'd really USE that boost gauge as a serious point of reference, see what it looks like with the 1psi hash marks removed.

 

I'm down either way!!

 

I'm going to redo the face to show 20 In.Hg. on the vacuum side and 10 PSI on the boost side. This will accomplish a couple of things. First, it will (hopefully) keep the gauge pointer from completely disappearing of the face when idling; I realize that ~22 In.Hg is where most of our cars idle and I would set the scale to 25 In.Hg if I could but then I would only be able to go up to about 5 PSI on the boost scale which is obviously unacceptable. Second, this will put the 0 of the scale about straight up or "due north" and this will make the gauge face a little more aesthetically pleasing when the car is off.

 

I would not by an in-accurate boost gauge. The mechanic gauge is fine and will be accurate as hell when configured properly. My best advice would be to it to someone who knows what they are doing in terms of gauges and see whats involved in reconfiguring it/making a custom sweep guage. Custom would be the best way and would reduce costs/labour on your part. U will be able to create a sweep and scale to suit everyones needs that way..... just a thought!