barthelb

Gotta link of those breathers, one of the guys thinks the cooling system needs a T fitting that will supply both turbos or something like that to eliminate the system from getting air in it.

Its funny you ask how much im boosting. I thought the stock APS springs can only go up to 12psi max, well a couple weeks ago before i had my tune checked out I was getting .9 bar which would be right around 14psi. Normally im getting 9.5-10.5 psi. This morning i didn't even get to get on it that much. Everytime the car starts to stall on occasion or the revs fluctuate a lot when coming to a stop, this starts to happen. Some are thinking maybe a blown headgasket. I hope not. I would like this to keep running til end of July early August when I might yank my motor and put the new one in.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

You could have smoke the headgasket from overheating so often. It happend on my last car... The thermostat was sticking closed and by the time I switched it the damage was done. The head had warped from heat and the headgasket was no longer sealing...

barthelb

Lets hope by me pulling over soon and not continuing to drive with the temp high or in the high RPM's prevented that. Its funny well not really, the other time this happened was when we had a warm day back in Feb i think and then the next day i went fishing so I met my friend at the lake. We fished all night and early in the morning i left and it was cold. Well yesterday was our first really nice day in a long time and then this morning it was pretty cold so I wonder if that had anything to do with it and what would it have done.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

My revs fluctuate often especially after hard runs and I come to a complete stop. If I blip the throttle a couple of times I can't get the idle to catch itself. This is not that uncommon. Look in the engine forum there is a recent thread where people are drilling a 1/8 hole in the throttle plate and it is helping. I haven't gone down that route yet. I just bought the HKS DLI and I am hoping that will help. If I still have problems I will modify the throttle plate. Funny thing is I didn't have problems when I had the EU. The idle got jumpy after the FCON, but it does not flucatate all the time.

http://www.greddy.com/prod_rad_breather_tank.htm

booger

iTrader: (6)

Couldnt sleep...Mia ...Did your T-stat stick closed one time and then was okay for awhile and then stick closed again ? I took it for a drive and it seems fine now. Couldnt get on the boost any...to much traffic right now

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

It started like that. I noticed one day my fans were on high a lot of the time the car was on. Then I noticed the temp gauge creep and then drop back to normal. Fans still doing the high thing. Then one day it just 100% failed and after 15 minutes of city off boost driving my water temp would go through the roof when at a stop light. Surprisingly enough if I drove it at night when it was cool and stayed out of boost the temp would stay at the normal spot. I knew the t-stat wasn't open though since my aftermarket water temp gauge is on the return hose from the motor to the rad I could see it wasn't registering the right temp (it was down around 100) because the water was not going through the bypass valve and not cycling through the rad... Both times it happened like that. It started gradually and then just flat out failed. Car would overheat after very short run time. Outlet water temp was lower then normal, overflow tank full, fans on high.

booger

iTrader: (6)

[quote=MIAPLAYA]It started like that. I noticed one day my fans were on high a lot of the time the car was on. Then I noticed the temp gauge creep and then drop back to normal. Fans still doing the high thing. Then one day it just 100% failed and after 15 minutes of city off boost driving my water temp would go through the roof when at a stop light. Surprisingly enough if I drove it at night when it was cool and stayed out of boost the temp would stay at the normal spot. I knew the t-stat wasn't open though since my aftermarket water temp gauge is on the return hose from the motor to the rad I could see it wasn't registering the right temp (it was down around 100) because the water was not going through the bypass valve and not cycling through the rad... Both times it happened like that. It started gradually and then just flat out failed. Car would overheat after very short run time. Outlet water temp was lower then normal, overflow tank full, fans on high.[/quo

I'll go ahead and put one in . Come to think about it . I may have gotten air in the other day . I put on that thing that cuts water off to the throttle body and had to cut the hose to install .

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=booger]I've removed those lines from my car a couple times now and not had an issue with air. Once for sprak plug change, once for Motordyne spacer.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

SGP told me that since I have the APS kit, I didn't need the breather tank. The stock APS overflow tank is good enough. I believe that they did some other things to the cooling system though, not sure what.

barthelb

This is how it starts, well actually the 1st real issue that you have a problem. First it starts off that your heat isn't as hot as it used to be, then you get occasional stalling when coming to a stop, then your revs will go to 1500-500 in traffic, eventually your T-stat sticks closed and your temp will rise, well exactly how Mia explained. Im contemplating using Distilled water and water wetter for this upcoming summer months. While my car is in the shop i might have to pick up some Distilled water and watter wetter or black/purple ice, whatever the additives are, and start running that as it will have a higher boiling over range, providing further protection from heat since cold is non-existent. What do yal think?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Well when my first stock one died and the second one went in the system was completely drained and filled with DI water and water wetter and was purged for almost an hour. 2 months later it died. Second time around I added more watter wetter and DI water.But the second time I was removing it altogether so it hasn't happened since.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

man that's weird. I have all the symptoms, but my car does not overheat.....only at high boost and repeated abuse, but I found that on high boost and repeated abuse I was just spewing out coolant/water and the cooling system was low. After I refilled with water no more overheating. I still have all the other symptoms though.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Yours sounds like head lifting...

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

I'm assuming you refilled with distilled water correct?

booger

iTrader: (6)

I went back out and the fluid got all sucked back in . I went and did 4 or 5 back to back WOT runs in 3rd gear to redline and all is good...for now . I went and got a T-stat at O'Reilly's ....cough..cough $44.00 so I got it in hand . Its a Murray Plus+ ..made in Germany . Any one heard of them ?

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

No I had to pull over cause it was overheating and there was nowhere to buy distilled water. I am taking the car in to have the cooling system flushed and then going with distilled water and water wetter.

G352NV

iTrader: (13)

Just leave the T-stat out, its warm enough here in cali.

failsafe306

iTrader: (38)

Just a quick question: I'm draining my coolant and installing a different color of Samco hoses this weekend, is it going to be that much of a pain to just go ahead and remove my t-stat while I'm at it?

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

Sorry to tell you my friend, this the beginning of cylinder head lift ...the problem will continue to be intermittent, it will eventually get worse, may take 2 week, or 2 months..but this problem, unfortunately, gets progressively worse

I know because I went through this myself, I actually just pulled my motor out last week, disassembled it yesterday...
pull your plenum off and look at the inside surface of the heads and where they mate to the block, also inspect the outside articulating surface (more difficult with the motor in the car)...you may see some coolant residue on the outside of the motor surface..this will confirm this is a cylinder head lift issue...but, if the head lift hasn't extended to the outside of the motor (just past the cylinder into the cooling channels), then you won't see this externally, and this doesn't ensure that the problem still doesn't exist

Good luck, not to be negative, but start planning on upgrading your head studs

-TODD

booger

iTrader: (6)

If it has lifted . Can you test it to find out . My shop said some thing about putting 150psi of air preasure in each Cyl. one by one with the radiator cap off and see if air bubbles out . Do you think this is doable ?

If it is head lift . That would be about the lowest psi that it has shown up at . Wouldnt it ?