I think the main problem is just the quality of the metal that the blocks and heads are made out of.

 

So you don't think that sleeves, this mod, 1/2" studs and some other things will hold a significant amount of power?

 

Thats a very broad statement. I think all that could hold 800-900whp for a couple dyno pulls and a little street driving but i dont think it would hold up.

 

the VQ35 and most other engines made now are designed only for their intended hp levels from the factory. anything more and it will add weight. once you start to disect this motor will you see how they structurally designed it. very effiecient for stock hp levels. this motor has actually been praised for its design.
cooling passages are kept only to the most vital areas, the rest is less than a 1/4" thick. as for the combustion leakage, the heads are to blame. the block sees expansion in the cylinder (horizontal force lets say) the head sees lateral force up, AND then the force holding it back down by the head bolts. my point being, the head is the only thing that can flex enough to create this situation.
now if we work backwards and say we have 2 known commodities (block and heads) that are solid billet steel, then we start to mill it thinner and thinner, then decide to make it out of alum, the process of "the weakest link" starts to show itself.
this first trick is so very simple i can't believe no one else thought of it. i have many other tricks in mind, but they are very labor intensive, yet will still strengthen the head.

 

i have entertained the idea of additional block bracing, by having solid straight bracing on the intake manifold (to hold the V more consistent) don't think it would help though

 

Here is a vid I made yesterday at 16psi......90 to 140+MPH. Before the head mod my car would overheat to 230 degrees and hotter if I didn't left off.

Look at the gauge on top. The needle is between 170 and 190 degree and it doesn't move.

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/a...642dd9687a.htm

 

nice!! i liked your forwarning to potential comment makers too, hahhaa.

 

yeah after seeing what type of comments bigbri got I thought it was approriate.....guess what? I have no comments......hahaha!

 

Gman,
Great to see this is working well for you

Scott,
I haven't recieved the studs yet and I believe Gman and I paid around the same time. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

Gman

Is your thermostat removed ?

 

LOL, the comments on Streetfire crack me up. I can't believe how many people mistake your car for a Civic.

 

No I have the Nismo low temp thermostat and greddy breather tank.

 

Haha. Here's my response.

"What's the point in me posting this vid? Um, read it in the fuking description **** whipes. I only posted this vid so I could host it to share with my forum members, hence the first fuking sentence in the vid description . I didn't post it so all you fuking dreamers could make stupid comments . "This video was uploaded to share with a forum" This is exactly the reason why I titled it this way. I knew you ***** azz motha ****** would post dumb as comments like this. It's a G35 coupe with a Greddy TT and an SGP Racing long block boosting 16psi dumb *****. The top gauge is a water temp, the 2nd is a boost gauge, and the 3rd is oil pressure."

 

LOL your get *** *** lil *****s putting up gay *** comments like my vid...lol I'd like to see what they drive...

 

Haha! Why do you think I titled it that way? Cause I saw the comments you got on your vid. Fuking pussie haters!

 

So OZ, are you saying that the stock blocks and head will or will not be able to see 900+whp with additional mods or will the cost of those additional mods far exceed that or equal at one point that of billet block and heads?

 

well i have heard stories of blocks splitting at 1200hp, so not much you are gunna be able to do about that. we already have main cap girdles and about the only other way to make it stronger is to brace the heads (example- intake manifold) unfortuneately, to blow motors to test, you need to have a motec or something and an engine dyno, not to mention tons of dough to grenade stuff all day long. it is abit out of my range, lol.
billet block and heads would be an astronomical figure with TONS of programming time. a wheel alone can take 20 hours on already set up software programs. it would take crazy amounts of time to program all the oil passages and stuff, motor mounts, the list goes on. to answer your question, what ever you do to the stock block and heads will be cheaper than billet stuff. and that is even just doing one with no cooling passages. to try cooling passages too, would be done on some equipment i have never seen before, lol.

 

Now then here is the next question. Essentially wouldn't it be easier to just make a cast iron block? Again lots of time will have to go into it but there would be less machining and it would be stronger but heavier. I am not sure exactly what it would all take to do this and how hard it would be but it is a suggestion.

 

You know, now that I think about it, if you could make a cast block for somewhere in the range of $2500 to $3000 you would be in the money. I mean a brand new block is like $1200 from Performance Nissan and more than likely $1500-$1600 at a dealer, sleeves are $1000 and installation is however much. Right there is at least $3000. So in the grand scheme of things for some people even $4000-$4500 could be worth it in the end I think. With saved labor cost and increased reliability and power handling capabilities I'm sure it would take popularity of sleeving for those who are aiming to reach over 600-700 whp.

 

i agree. it will take a large company to step up and recast this block and heads. i watched a show on history about metal forming and sand castings, but i don't think i am ready to get the smelting equipment yet, hahhaa. but companies like dart stepped up and started building stuff for honda guys. maybe in the future they will do it for the Z.