yeah but they talk about how an improper casting process can fail under heat. You're right, they spoke of a different model for a different car but its still a knock off.

 

Does it rattle when you idle? makes it seem like the test pipes or the tranny? I had the same problem. I would start my car and sometimes it would rattle under the car real bad, and if i place my hand on the shifter and press down it would stop. but then i blew a turbo =/ and now im rebuilding =) and it seems like everyone is building their motors..

 

let me know when you built block goes in. I'd like to run you. I am little further south, but the Florida G35 club has meets in your area.

 

any issues with oil pan spacers (like the JWT) the fact that the lines feed into the bottom of the oil pan, gravity fed, are they producing too much backpressure and forcing the feed lines to overpressurize the turbos?

any thoughts with tapping the upper oil pan for the return?
-TODD

 

I go down to MIA alot so I'll PM you next time I go down there so we can set it up. What HP are you pushing?

 

Did you blow it on factory boost or did you up your boost levels.

 

513whp and 481tq @16psi on a dyno dyamics with no dyno jet correction factor. dyno dynamics give number about 10%-!3% lower than dyno jets.

 

Ouch! OK For you I definitely have to have my built motor finished.
It should be coming out of the machine shop sometime this week and I'll be working on putting it in right away. I'll let you know when its ready to go.

 

I wouldn't go with the regular ARP stud kit. Get the L19's or 1/2" studs. The regular ARP studs don't keep the heads down past 13psi or so.

 

I've heard that from quite a few ppl now. Unfortunately I only started to hear about it right after I had already bought them (as usual) And I would take them back but I already handed them to the machine shop. I'll see if I can get them back since the shop is only going to put my shortblock together.

But, don't you think the heads also warp a little under the extreme pressure?
DO you have cometic head gaskets?
What happens when the heads separate from the block? Obviously you loose compression but do you automatically blow the gasket?

 

At least go with the L19. They are installed just like the regular ARP studs. No manchining is necessary.


overzealous thinks he heads are a little warped.

I have the stock headgaskit.


Air gets in the cooling system and causes the car to overheat. I wasn't able to use my 16psi setting very long before the car started overheated. When I started having problems I stopped using 16psi and kept it @ 10psi.

The gasket will not automatically blow, but it will eventually erode.

I recently installed the SVRT head mod bolts and it started the overheating. The problem is still there, but these bolts allow me to run 16psi with out overheating.

 

I've been doing some URGENT searching for a banjo bolt alternative. Decided to do my own kit last night. I was debating on whether or not to go with AAM spec, but I was not able to verrify the pipe thread yet to see if its even usable for me.

It's WAY cheaper to do your own lines than buying one premade. I guess it's more the convience factor.

 

The problem I had with using AAM fittings is that they stick out too far from the oil pan and it becomes very hard to run a stright line down from the turbo.

Be careful because these fittings aren't cheap... I spent over $150.00 between fittings and thread adapters (the adapters make the fittings stick out even further. I even tried using steel braided lines so they wouldn't kink but the angle was way too agressive.

Save yourselves some money and do the following.

Take the stock oil drain pipe and weld an extension to it so that it brings it all the way down and close to the oil pan and from there use which ever type of banjo or aam style fittings.

I Hate banjos but would recommend it over AAM just because I tried everything possible to make it work and failed miserably.

 

[QUOTE=tecni]Be careful because these fittings aren't cheap... I spent over $150.00 between fittings and thread adapters (the adapters make the fittings stick out even further. I even tried using steel braided lines so they wouldn't kink but the angle was way too agressive.QUOTE]

I realy dont see how you spent $150. All together anodized aluminum fittings totaled about $50 and 3ft of braided -8 line is $16 or less.

You wont realy need any other fittings to go to the turbo after the braided line. If you did all you would need is to weld an AN male fitting to the drain section if you realy wanted AN all the wa down. Hell not even that. Throw in about $9.40 for a pair of male AN -8 weld adaptors saw off the drain line and go all the way. If thats not your peice of cake go AN -8 hardline nuts (about $3.00 a pair)and turn the tube into part of the new system. Many routes; the most expensive one is about $80, a foot extra hose and welding the plate.

If you did AN -6 on everything it would be much cheaper. But thats skimping on safety to save money.