I've been having a leak on the drivers side oil return line and have wondered where the hell it was comming from. I was advised to throw a little High Temp RTV on it to seal up the leak since it was not from the hose. I did the passenger side no prob. Torqued it down to 35ft/lb and then pulled the drivers banjo bolt.

I took a good look at it and saw it had a small crack where the thread ended before the return ports. The bolt slipped out of my hand and landed on end at an angle with the head up. That son-of-a-b!tch broke in 2.

Just a warning for those with the new kit with the cast pan and banjo fittings. If you have a leak it may not be your hose or the bolts not tight enough. Aparently they sourced out cheap parts to save money.

 

Looking at eventualy converting every thing to an AN style setup with a 90 deg swivel joint, 37 deg coupler on a braided hose only using a clamp up top.

Just been trying to find the conversion for the metric bolt to AN fittings. If you look on page K4 it looks like the M14 X 1.5 fittings match up to -4 fittings. http://www.parker.com/TFD/CAT/PDFFILES/K-Komatsu.pdf

Any one have any good leads on good conversions from metric thread pitch to AN, NPT, ANSI, ISO, or SAE? Been searching all night but cant find any thing reliable except the above site.

 

i'm going through a similar scenario, those banjo fittings suck

 

Thanks to sonicz33 I was able to get up and running again. Now the passanger side line leaks where it connects to the banjo. I cant get the thing to stop leaking there,just a slow drip. And now I'm P!SSED.

After lots of thinking and searching I have come up with a solution to my problem and I am already sourcing parts. Making an oil return system of my own to fit in the Greddy Kit Cast Pan.

If any one else is wants them I'll make them up, cost of parts and shipping only. No Labor. It will be a bit to get them up due to my work and all. They will be the first original product of a developement I have undertaken.

I'll do mine up first and put out pics for those who are interested. I should be able to order the parts Tuesday if I'm still arround and not off to work.

More to come.

 

banjos have typically copper or alum sealing rings as they will conform easily and make a good seal. but banjo bolts are weak (cause they are hollow) the washers crush and seal way before 35lbs. the trick is feeling when a fastener is going to "give way", and banjos should be atleast grade 7 or metric equivelent (9+) anything less will tear apart.

 

ok so what are the spec on the banjo bolts?
i need to buy neeed ones. same **** happend to me and i have been searching for a week with no luck.

 

14M X 1.5 Length is 1.25". But as I said before they have AN to Metric adapters that would solve this crappy problem. AN -6 or -8 male to metric 14 X1.5.

These things will never leak og brake like banjo bolts. Also if using anodized aluminium on the Greddy tapped pan no worries about Galvanic Corrosion or disimilar metal's thermal expansion rates.

 

well i got the m14 and it is the wrong size. Ilooked at the oil inlet again and thourght it looked like a m10 so i tried one of my head studs and it fit perfect
the corect size is m10 1.25 not m14

 

Well the parts came in and I'm just waiting for saturday to install the set up. Every thing looks good so far threads match and all I need to do is cut the lines to length. and put em all together.

Parts and shipping total for next day air was $95. 1/3rd of it was shipping but I needed them ASAP.

 

I just made all new turbo lines too, 3AN fittings, new banjo fittings, had to track down new banjo bolts to properly line up the oil channel in the banjo fitting-finally found some at a hydrolic supplier (the greddy banjo is fairly thick, the replacement banjo I am using is angled for better firment and is slightly thinner in height (from turbo surface to top of bolt therefor offsetting where the oil channel in the bolt lines up with the banjo)... still same size passage to allow for similar oil flow

does anyone know exactky how much oil thew turbos require (pressure/flow) and what the max is???? (if there is a max that would cause the seals to leak?)

-TODD

 

Yeah not happy, gonna call Greddy Monday and curse some one out. I'm fuken p!ssed so I'll make it short.

1. Company sent wrong hardware, too small & wrong thread
2. They will not refund because it was a special order so I got Fuct out of $95 for that crap
3. Found a place on island that sells AN's, wrong thread AGAIN!! I even brought the busted banjo to show them.
4. They closed at noon, the banjo busted at 11:53. So I put all lines back together to drive car, park it and use Jeep.
5. The other broke @ss muthfukinsonabich Banjo broke under 20ft/lb's
6. Cars parked until the shop opens up again. Monday I return fittings and get the right ones.
7. Greddy's gonna block my number because I'm gonna make a grown man p!ss him self from over the phone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the banjo's should not be breaking at less than 20ft/lbs, they sourced out some cheap ****.

 

hey man, i went with a different size banjo and a different bolt...
I can overnight you two used banjo bolts monday if u need them
sell em for $10 and you pay shipping...if this helps, i'll make a trip to the post office, if not, i tried, and good luck

TODD

 

Dude, I realy appreciate it but my car realy isnt accessable monday and tuesday. This gives me enough time to get the parts localy (just found local store with parts).

If I was not upgrading I would deffinately tak you up on the offer. Like I said I realy appreciate it. Thanks man.

 

So what should i do before I install my Greddy kit, What are the parts I need to upgrade so that they wont break! Thanks guys!
-George

 

I'll let you know monday when I get all the right parts at the the store I found. I'll pull out the return hose and get the them the give me the right size every thing so there is no fukup this time.

 

They didnt have all the right parts so I had to use an adaptor. I decided to go with an-10 just for ease of instilation.

I appologize for not having pictures I left the camera in the jeep at work before I started on the lines.

Here is a quick run-down of what you will need:

2 X 14mm x 1.5 male pipe to AN-10 male adaptor (for the oilpan)
2 rubber insert hydrolic washers
2 X -10 hose of your choice, pref high temp
2 AN 12 hose clamps
2 X AN -10 female to AN-10 hose end 90 deg elbow
or
2 X AN-10 hose ends and directly connect the hose to the ports. (you will need extra hose to prevent kinking)
or
2 X AN -10 female to fitting less hose connector.


I dont know if its just me but going from the banjo to the more open AN fittings seemed to flow WAY more oil. The turbos spooled a little quicker and I had to dail the boost back because it seemed to spool more boost.

Like I said it may be just me but there seems to be a deffinate diffrence. The way I see it was I had the boost dialed in 8.0 at WOT at 5000 RPM. Now it boosts to 8.2 at WOT at 5000 RPM. All the peak functions were noted on the Greddy pressure sensor, DEFI pressure guage on peak setting, and the BLITZ boost controler. All three showed an increase of boost in the 5000 RPM area.