There is always a chance of engine failure, even with a built motor. And all failures cannot always be attributed to a specific cause. If you cannot afford to replace the engine if something goes, DO NOT GO F/I. Period. I am one of the very few unfortunate ones that had my engine go with Vortech on a stock block. It was tuned conservatively and all of the correct gauges in place to monitor A/F, EGT, etc.

That being said, would I do it again? F*ck yeah! F/I is not for everyone, but for a lot of us on here it is a drug that we just have to have.

 

I REALLY disagree with this one...I've seen more peoples engines puke https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/icon16.gif
w/ nitrous than if they do a conservative tune w/ a turbo kit (or supercharger). I may be new to the 350Z arena...but of all the cars i've owned, i would not recommend that anyone run nitrous in place of a F/I kit. Especially if you are new to it...

 

What went on your engine..? Rod, piston, ?? What were the circumstances when it went?? TIA..

 

Pls see here for more info about my particular experience:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/148389-vortech-with-re-built-short-block-long.html

 

Like I asked earlier, if I go F/I, would Rods and Pistons be enough to secure the block against failure or would I need to do more? I know it wont be 100% becuz you cant get 100% but you know wat i mean.

 

Ive already answered you before you even posted-try reading up 1 post from your original

 

Bottom line like Alberto says, its a crap shoot. Your motor will either take it or it will blow. I have nearly 30K miles on my APS TT kit with 440whp or more. So its up to you. On a vortech i think your car will run great and reliably around 350-370whp assuming the obviouse, great tune(r), care, and maintenance.

 

i've seen motors go minutes after a F/I kit is installed....and let me tell you....it's usually a bad installation(not speaking of Altered or any shop just friends and forum members here)...a lot of people goto places that say.."sure we can do it" but have not played with the various kits and know of thier errors either in the instructions or, in what we consider, their design. Tuning is another major issue. Don't be content with "safe out of the box". Most kits are indeed safe for regular driving but not for the way we beat the **** out of them. Have built motors gone? Sure...once again an installation issue or a weak part. Parts are made with a 1/1000 of an inch tolerance. That means one out of every thousand parts is an inch off from it's intended size. These tolerances are usually checked before installation but can lead to failure. I have seen stock motored 350's from Altered running for over 2 years with a reflash and an emange....I have seen Brent Metro(bambam) take his stock motor 350(making 502 rwhp @ 10.5 psi) on 1500 mile road trips. FI is safe in the right hands. I say pay for experience ahead of time cause it will save you in teh long run....and to answer your question about the rods and pistons....never hurts but make sure it's done by a place that has done it before!

 

Man I completely disagree with you. There have been cases of people doing everything right and still BOOM. Brent doesnt usually drive on his 500whp map, even he'll tell you that (not to take anything away from him), even if he drove 3000 miles on a 600whp map 99% of those miles are not even in boost. And as far as cars lasting 2 years with a flash good for them-most guys dont even take their FI Z's to redline! Its silly for you to say what I highlighted in bold, an honest person/shop will tell you its always a 50/50 chance regardless of how well you set up your kit.

 

Agreed....that was in no way a sales pitch.....for example there is a certain turbo kit out there who's instructions are incorrect...they tell you to put a tube on the wastegate on the wrong pipe...this leads to motor a going "BOOM"....50/50 chance absolutely....but I say the chance of success is much less if you goto a place that doesn't know crap about 350's.

 

Are you referring to a wastegate discharge tube? Thats highly unlikely. If you are referring to a boost signal line I think I know what kit you mean and if you actually read the instructions and understand them they are correct. You just have to know what the hell you are looking at.

 

I know it wasnt a sales pitch Noah, just you worded that really wrong because its always a chance we FI Z owners take And nobody can say FI is safe in the right hands with a stock block....

 

My motor blew after just 5K miles and was done by one of the premier APS installers and Unichip tuners in the country and it didn't matter. If it's time, it's time.

 

We speak of the same kit here.....just pointing out how people rush into things and try to spend less...a place that doesn't know what their looking at or had advance warning could cause catastrophy...and then people say this place yada yada yada....all FI is a gamble....life is a gamble....who's to say with your perfectly running FI set-up a truck blows thru an intersection....some of us take gambles....some of us don't....FI is like everyother decision....like a house....if you cannot afford the renevations don't buy the house...or deal with replacing the roof when it leaks.....i'd say it's worth the risk....FI is a definate boner inducer.....

 

If you know that the instructions are correct and you just need to have more then one functional brain cell to understand what it means then your statement about the instructions being incorrect is false. In fact I have heard you have told this to several people. I would appreciate it if you would not mis-inform people. The instructions are correct, several people who installed this in their garage were able to understand what was meant. If you cannot I'm sorry but it gives you no excuse to claim the instructions are wrong. Again if you can
(a)Read
(b)Understand a crazy concept called Spacial Orientation
(c)Have more then one functioning Brain Cell
(d)Have at least one functional appendage

you can correctly install the boost signal line to the wastegate.

 

the massive torque early in the RPM band, which comes from single turbos, is a factor that is causing much of the damage. it's not necessarily the total hp or tq, but how and when it hits. since the ST's torque peaks at around 3800 rpm, and with TT's it keeps rising up gradually, that's my theory as to what happened to my engine and may need to be examined further.

 

what kit is this? forced induction is crack simple and plain.. once you go on it.. its hard to get off.. and it ruins your life

*edit never mind must be turbonetics*

 

Wait, am I reading this right?
So after FI the motor blows up?
WTF? Why?
This is just as bad as the accord that I dont want. Add FI and the motor blows up.

I thought the VQ was a nice engine and ready to take that kind of HP.

But I dont know that much about them so sorry if it's a newb question.

 

I did my own install and had NO issues understanding the TN instructions, anybody that needs help with it or misunderstood it shouldnt be working on a car...

 

that's what i am saying...then these people blow something up and blame the manufacturer...then people say "this kit" or "so and so's twin turbo" blows motors....this all goes back to my first point that motors will last longer if placed in compitent hands....i personally know of a friend back home who blew his motor from this....i am not knocking the kit or I wouldn't sell as many of them as I do....but people want to know what they can do to make sure their motor doesn't blow...and the most important thing(i was a 350Z owner modding my car well before I ever worked in a shop) is get it installed properly....i have had customers from all over bring in cars that had kits installed by places claiming "we can do turbos" elsewhere and they messed things up....i'm not knocking a kit or any shops....just stating an obvious point.....besides freak stuff....weak motors, bad ring...i think competance in an installer adds to longevity.....