booger

iTrader: (6)

You cant just drop in the 440's and run on the stock fuel maps . Your car will not start and idle right . To do that , your best bet is to have the ECU flashed for the 440's and put in a smaller washer in the FMU so fuel preasure doesnt build so high .

Triji

iTrader: (2)

Dude, your the man booger... Thanks!

booger

iTrader: (6)

You may want to call Vortech and ask what size washer to put in the FMU for the 440's . They will send you one . Dont know how much $ they want for them.

Triji

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I appreciate the tip...

I am going to stick with the stock injectors for now I think since she should run fine on those. I will upgrade the injectors after a month or so... I don't want to reflash the ECU quite yet and I might just be happy for a bit the way she is... "I hope"

I will get her tuned the way she is next week and then do another tune when I get the injectors... Do you reccomend a Walbro fuel pump over the washer?

booger

iTrader: (6)

Im sure more flow over more preasure is better . I dont know what has to be done to make it work though . Removing the FMU and the aux. fuel pump ? Just the aux. pump ? Dont know. Maybe some one who has done it will chime in . I went with the return fuel system and the Walbro , and that gets rid of the whole Vortech fuel system

westpak

iTrader: (19)

On one we did where we could not get it to stay down in af when we got to redine was change out the injectors with 380's and changed the fuel pump. With this we had plenty of fuel to manipulate the MAF signal with the SS.

All cars are a little different so you can try with the stock setup and see if they can tune it, if they can't start with a fuel pump and then if still not able to tune it then do the injectors. You will know pretty quickly becuase your af will be fine and all of the sudden nearing redline it just skyrockets. This is what I remember off the top of my head, if you have issues I can ask Monday and see if the guys remember any other details.

freezeg35

iTrader: (3)

Hey boog, ive got the 380's en route as we type. From what i understand they are plug and play aren't they? I know they just drop in but should i change the washers in the fmu for the 380's?

booger

iTrader: (6)

With the 380's you maybe able to scale them with the R4 . I could never get it right with the 550's , so I had the ECU flashed for them . As far as the washer . I know on the older model Vortech kits they had a 8 to 1 washer in the FMU and changed it to a 6 to 1 . Not sure which year changed . I dont know enough about it to give exact answers , I can only tell you about what Ive gone thru and what it took to get it right .

Triji

iTrader: (2)

Cool, Thanks for the replies ya'll!!

I just got her back and OMFG!!!!!

I LOVE IT!!!

I have a couple of questions tho... I'll ask them in this thread instead of starting another

1) When I am in 1st or 2nd gear (5AT) my SLIP light and my VDC OFF light come on... This concearns me cuz it cuts the VDC OFF... I did a brodie in a parking lot to see if the VDC would still engage and it did NOT... It was shut off for some reason... This happens from a roll not even getting on it..... Is this normal for Vortech??? Or is there a problem here?

2) After I was stopped at a light I got her up to 4500 - 5000 RPMS and I noticed a crap load of smoke trailing behind me BIGTIME... I am not getting on her too much at all until 500 miles cuz I had my crank and bearings replaced as well. Is smoking normal for a fresh install?

3) Can a G use the RPM function with the Zeitronix guages?

I am sure there will be more as the days go on....

Thanks for all the help... I have a little rettle under 900 RPM's but I am not overly worried about that cuz I will get my RPM's adjusted to 800 - 900 tomorrow I hope.

THANKS!!!

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

not sure about the VDC issue. I disable mine anyway for other reasons.

Smoke sounds bad though, not sure what that's all about. Is it black or white smoke? Or blue/gray smoke?

Triji

iTrader: (2)

I crawled under it tonight after I took a drive and found it... There is a oil leak at the rear crank seal... It was dripping on my exhaust and smoking BAD... I had my crankshaft replaced when I got this installed so they had it all apart. They said that it is a defective seal and they will take care of it on Monday (no charge). I also saw another leak which looked and smelled like water so I think there is also a rad leak somewhere as well.

I love the sound of the blow off valve, it is addicting... But I am sidelining her until I can get these fixed... The leak is pretty heavy and I am down about a quart already.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

yeah probably a good idea to not drive it too hard just to be safe until it's all fixed.

glad you like it. You shouldn't have too many bugs to work out until you start upping the boost and injectors/fuel etc

i seem to notice a big difference when driven at night with the AC off vs during the hot as hell 114 degree day with the AC on. You might consider an oil temp gauge if you don't have one yet. Otherwise you can kinda use the oil pressure gauge to get an idea of how hot the oil is - err well that might be something to look into too with your G, but for normal street driving I suppose they're not really needed

Triji

iTrader: (2)

Drive too hard? I don't think I'll be driving it at all... I think I am down about 1 - 2 QT's already... I had a pretty big pool in my Driveway tonight before I pulled her into the garage... Enough to have to put the kitty litter down.

I am gonna check the Dipstick in the AM and see how much I lost. It does not look good though... When you can see the drip, drip, on the exhaust and hear it Sizzzzzzle on there while you are choking on smoke... Driving is not a top priority ATM

Not sure where I am loosing the water / coolant though...

I am dissapointed that I will have to mis the Car Show tomorrow night... I was looking forward to the Midnight Run....

Oh well..... Better safe than sorry...