Assuming:
- stock rear end ratio
- built block, upgraded fuel, etc..
- beefed up auto transmission
- daily driver

How much whp is needed to get into the 3.8 to 4 second 0-60 times?

I don't care about the top speed, just the get-up-and-go.

Would it make much difference which type/brand of FI as long as it makes the hp?

I'm thinking that putting even 20K into the Z is a hell of lot cheaper than buying a new car. After all, what looks better than a Z?

Tx

 

Be more concerned about torque to get off the line that fast, but the real advantage they have along with their power is a substancial weight difference and that could be another issue.

 

The biggest problem on a built FI'd Z is the 0 part of the 0-60. With our stock FD your biggest problem will be traction. To have a 3.8 0-6 you must hook up relatively well and you would do better with less boost than more. From 0-100 a built Z will blow all of them away. Even 30 -60.

To get good 0-60 times spend good money on tires, camber of your rear tires, springs that are soft enough to allow a weight transfer to the rear tires and a TT kit running around 9psi. You will be at 3.8 easily with the right suspension.

 

u know any springs that are softer than stocks? rear suspension of our cars are too stiff which cause lots of tire spin.

 

i love these threads

 

Post a couple of your recent time slips and lets see how far you have to go.

 

Using a 0-60 calculator and my best 1/4 time and trap speed run as a base, Im estimated at 3.5 seconds 0-60 with slicks. Judging by supercars that run around my times with much faster traps (I obviously have more traction) my 0-60 times are right on....

 

I think with low to mid 400 rwhp and the right suspension and tire set up you can get their but like others have said traction is a problem with FI Z's. And always remember this those cars were built for the power the bring from factory we were built for less power. And like factory set up nothing really comes close unless lots of money on custom specs.

 

It would probably a better idea to have gears fabricated. its possible to do that with just 400rwhp, you just need the gearing for it.

 

Why gears its possible with stock gearing? Suspension set up and correct tire choice is way more important than making gears longer and calling it a day...

 

I eat 911's for breakfast and have a stock block

good traction, a well tuned TT (ok, just for the TN guys....a well tuned ST ), know how to drive and you're there

If you want to run on street tires invest in a Racelogic traction control, that thing was one of the best investments I've ever made

 

what are your suggestions about the suspension set up ?

 

Stock suspension is decent for launching, rear camber wise it could get better though. You could get a camber arm/toe bolt kit and dial the camber out to 0 through -.5 for maximum contact patch. Id also suggest you dont run JIC coilovers like me, they are just too damn stiff to get any decent weight transfer to the rear when launching. If I had to do it again Id do what I said above and some Hotchkis springs (SOFT) and Koni shocks for slight adjustability...

Oh and of course run slicks at the track and a wide 285+ good tire or DR on the street. You should have no problems hooking up 450whp or so on the street

 

Honestly I'm surprised that a lot more guys haven't invested in this. It is a great tool for those with not much experience in driving FI'd cars or a great supplement for those guys who want a little more control over traction. I doubt there are any drivers on this board, unless they've done prfessional rally courses, that can maintain the fine margin of slip that this unit can .

 

I'm not an expert on this but I would also assume that wheel and tire size would play a major role in traction as well. From what I've learned, if you still want appealing cosmetics and decent traction one should not go higher than an 18" wheel. Not to mention there's more available, size wise, for 18's. 17's would be optimal and you can stuff 315's in the rear with the right offsets and suspension set-up.

One thing I did do when I had my Supra and also on my Z was run tire pressures at 34psi front and 32psi rear. I wasn't FI but I could definetly tell the difference between running those pressures and running in the 40's.

 

^^May be good for nailing launches on the street consistently but at the track on slicks its not necessary IMO. BTW-what fun is a computer launching for you and cutting the throttle for no lift shifts?

 

I will save does 20 thousands as a down payment for the 2009 Skyline GTR
http://www.nissanusa.com/09gt-r/

 

Hummm... I wanted to sign up on the list.. And Got...


An error occurred while processing your request.
Reference #97.2655640.1151377697.1157dd47


Want to buy Car's from a company that can't keep thier web-site running?

Cheers Amy -

Then tryed to get a Brochure..

Gateway Timeout
The proxy server did not receive a timely response from the upstream server.
Reference #1.c7b1963f.1151377875.6188ff

Oh Well - Nissan looks bad again...

 

I get the site....so it's official it'll be a Nissan, cool

 

Thomas,

Were you able to be placed on the E-Mail list?

I got the main page, (Prototype from 2004) but, link's there after Blew!

Cheers Amy -