Car hesitates badly at hi rpms :(
#41
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
first off all you need to get some more fuel in there down low, its looking pretty lean, then one of your problems is you are running 9 to 1 AFR up top,
also make sure that you knock sensitivity is like 100 90 80 70 60 60 make sure it needs 3 correlations before it retards the timing
also make sure that you knock sensitivity is like 100 90 80 70 60 60 make sure it needs 3 correlations before it retards the timing
I'll try the knock sensitivity thing tonite. Thanks for the replies.
#42
Originally Posted by mistaboosta
dude the problem is, no matter how much fuel i pull off the fuel map, the AFRs at that range always stay around 9.xx .
I'll try the knock sensitivity thing tonite. Thanks for the replies.
I'll try the knock sensitivity thing tonite. Thanks for the replies.
then its probably your fuel pressure regulator, do you have a fuel pressure gauge in the car??
when i was messing around and made it really rich, it just died and lost all power, but i figured better rich than lean
#44
i got some interesting find up about the problem.
I got CEL since my engine is built and the codes are P0011 and P0012.
Now if I reset the car the CEL is gone for some time. When the CEL is gone the car can rev to where ever the rev limit is set to. BUT, loses a lot of power after 6000 rpm and it runs pig rich after 6000 no matter how much fuel I pull off the fuel map.
I monitored the cam sprocets and the duty show %0 all the time. Any ideas?
I got CEL since my engine is built and the codes are P0011 and P0012.
Now if I reset the car the CEL is gone for some time. When the CEL is gone the car can rev to where ever the rev limit is set to. BUT, loses a lot of power after 6000 rpm and it runs pig rich after 6000 no matter how much fuel I pull off the fuel map.
I monitored the cam sprocets and the duty show %0 all the time. Any ideas?
#45
Well the P0011 code is for the IVT and would seem you have an issue with that system There is a gap between angle of target and
phase-control angle degree. we have not seen that code on any of the built motors we have tuned.
The code is for bank 1, there is no 12 code but rather 21 code which is the same but for bank 2.
phase-control angle degree. we have not seen that code on any of the built motors we have tuned.
The code is for bank 1, there is no 12 code but rather 21 code which is the same but for bank 2.
#46
I think you are having the same problem as me. I bought my 03's Enthusiast 5 weeks. THe clutch and flywheel were replaced right before the purchase. Within 5 minutes of driving off the lot, the check engine light came on, and it failed an emissions inspection a week later. THe car felt under-powered, especially at higher rpms. The two codes being outputted were P0011 and P0021 (both for Intake Timing)
I brought it back to the dealer, and they've held it for 3 weeks trying to figure out the problem. First they replaced 2 intake solenoid valves, with no luck. Then they troubleshot the ECU...no luck. Finally they talked to some Nissan Engineers who determined the problem was a slightly mis-aligned flywheel (which they replaced right before I bought the car)
I will be picking up my car (FINALLY) tomorrow afternoon.
I've read that with the 03's even a slight mis-alignment of the flywheel can cause this problem. Hopefully this helps.
I brought it back to the dealer, and they've held it for 3 weeks trying to figure out the problem. First they replaced 2 intake solenoid valves, with no luck. Then they troubleshot the ECU...no luck. Finally they talked to some Nissan Engineers who determined the problem was a slightly mis-aligned flywheel (which they replaced right before I bought the car)
I will be picking up my car (FINALLY) tomorrow afternoon.
I've read that with the 03's even a slight mis-alignment of the flywheel can cause this problem. Hopefully this helps.
#48
I've read that with the 03's even a slight mis-alignment of the flywheel can cause this problem. Hopefully this helps.[/QUOTE]
I have been having the same problem with the p0011 code. If there is a mis- alignment do you think it will have an effect wether the throttle is being pressed or not ? Because using a scanner i monitored and saw that this code will not come up if I always hold the throttle down to keep it reving at least 1k rpm. Just trying to figure out if my clutch may possibly be out of alignment.
I have been having the same problem with the p0011 code. If there is a mis- alignment do you think it will have an effect wether the throttle is being pressed or not ? Because using a scanner i monitored and saw that this code will not come up if I always hold the throttle down to keep it reving at least 1k rpm. Just trying to figure out if my clutch may possibly be out of alignment.
#49
I was able to pick up my car on Friday. Originally the dealer techs thought it may be the flywheel. They pulled the tranny, inspected the flywheel and determine it was installed correctly. Running out of options, the contacted the corporate engineers who told them the problem did indeed originate from the flywheel. Pulling the tranny again, they found they fw was off by an EXTREMELY small measure. The tech at the dealership told me a fraction of a degree (although i'm pretty sure that was an exaggeration).
In any case, this example goes to show that a slight misalignment of the fw will cause this. My car now runs perfectly, and I couldn't be happier.
If you've ever touched your tranny or fw, I would recommmend really going over it with a fine tooth comb.
Hope everything works out for you!
In any case, this example goes to show that a slight misalignment of the fw will cause this. My car now runs perfectly, and I couldn't be happier.
If you've ever touched your tranny or fw, I would recommmend really going over it with a fine tooth comb.
Hope everything works out for you!
#51
Originally Posted by mistaboosta
there are holes for the flywheel to fit in and it can't be misaligned under a certain amount, which is quite visible. interesting tough.
#53
Originally Posted by mistaboosta
checked the flywheel yesterday, it is correctly aligned. I'm going out of solutions.
#55
I bought the UTEC back in january and my car went through the same things. We also thought the walbro could not handle the 750cc ...l so a bought the upgraded fuel system....didn't help. I also had the hesitation... so I bought the HKS ignition amplifier....helped a little. We have pulled and pulled fuel out....still rich. The main problem with mine is that the car will cut fuel after 8 psi. Under 8 psi it pulls hard...it's not perfect but I'll take it.
#56
check which column utec uses when you reach to the max. boost level and copy that column to the bigger columns. I.E: If you are using 60% column at max. boost, copy 60% column on to the 70, 80,90 and 100% column. Let me know if this fixes your car.
#58
Originally Posted by mistaboosta
i'm suspecting from the oil pressure going into those damn cam sensors being low. as u probably know they are working with oil pressure.
#59
i've solved my hi RPM problem. It was UTEC based. UTEC was using 100% column where as it should be using 60% column. So it wasn't making any good me removing fuel from 60% column.
You can raise the oil pressure by adding shims to your stock oil pump's spring, which will eventually make the spring stiffer and raise your oil pressure.
I'm receiving new cylinder heads with in 2 weeks so i'll check if there is anything that will prevent the correct oil pressure to reach in to those damn selonoids.
You can raise the oil pressure by adding shims to your stock oil pump's spring, which will eventually make the spring stiffer and raise your oil pressure.
I'm receiving new cylinder heads with in 2 weeks so i'll check if there is anything that will prevent the correct oil pressure to reach in to those damn selonoids.
#60
Originally Posted by mistaboosta
i've solved my hi RPM problem. It was UTEC based. UTEC was using 100% column where as it should be using 60% column. So it wasn't making any good me removing fuel from 60% column.
You can raise the oil pressure by adding shims to your stock oil pump's spring, which will eventually make the spring stiffer and raise your oil pressure.
I'm receiving new cylinder heads with in 2 weeks so i'll check if there is anything that will prevent the correct oil pressure to reach in to those damn selonoids.
You can raise the oil pressure by adding shims to your stock oil pump's spring, which will eventually make the spring stiffer and raise your oil pressure.
I'm receiving new cylinder heads with in 2 weeks so i'll check if there is anything that will prevent the correct oil pressure to reach in to those damn selonoids.