Project going broke....
you can always work your way up - it's much easier to deal with $5-10k chunks than a single +$25k chunk
the trick is to do it in sections so you don't have to remove the same things twice or multiple times.
and besides, there's ALWAYS better parts coming out. We might all think the best whatever part is already out, but there's always something better coming out that's either better, or just as good for 2/3 the price
the trick is to do it in sections so you don't have to remove the same things twice or multiple times.
and besides, there's ALWAYS better parts coming out. We might all think the best whatever part is already out, but there's always something better coming out that's either better, or just as good for 2/3 the price
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Originally Posted by sentry65
you can always work your way up - it's much easier to deal with $5-10k chunks than a single +$25k chunk
the trick is to do it in sections so you don't have to remove the same things twice or multiple times.
and besides, there's ALWAYS better parts coming out. We might all think the best whatever part is already out, but there's always something better coming out that's either better, or just as good for 2/3 the price
the trick is to do it in sections so you don't have to remove the same things twice or multiple times.
and besides, there's ALWAYS better parts coming out. We might all think the best whatever part is already out, but there's always something better coming out that's either better, or just as good for 2/3 the price
the best advice if you really want a high HP 350z...
avoid (AT ALL COSTS) attempting to add it up before diving in.
you need to just start buying all the parts without paying any regard to what you are doing and do not tell any of your family. try and get most of it on the way within a 1 week period before any credit card bills show up.
adding it up before-hand will definatly eliminate your chances of following thru with the project. especially if you share the results with any family members.
if you end up in financial stress afterwords, you can do what 50% of people do when they finish an extremely expensive project - sell the car for 40% of what you have invested in it... and your out. no problem.
avoid (AT ALL COSTS) attempting to add it up before diving in.
you need to just start buying all the parts without paying any regard to what you are doing and do not tell any of your family. try and get most of it on the way within a 1 week period before any credit card bills show up.
adding it up before-hand will definatly eliminate your chances of following thru with the project. especially if you share the results with any family members.
if you end up in financial stress afterwords, you can do what 50% of people do when they finish an extremely expensive project - sell the car for 40% of what you have invested in it... and your out. no problem.
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Originally Posted by Sam405
I know how you feel =/ what all came with $11560? At that price it should be sleeved and etc. Seems about the same price i paid for my build.
It's sleeved, ferrera valves and the works, easily good for over 800whp
I am not in shock about the motor cost, I figured about 10K for that.
I am shocked about everything around that...
I guess I could get the motor and the fuel system and then take the unichip to it's maximum and then later on do the new ems but even that is probably around 20k
other option is to just get the shortblock sleeved
or get an unsleeved long block...
I will have to make some decissions in the next few days
You could knock off 2k by not doing sleeves, which should be fine as long as you stay at 600whp or maybe a little more. You can also sell your Unichip and get a UTEC (once they solve their issues). So that's like 4k back in your pocket, and I feel you'd be just as safe- (again, as long as you keep it around 600whp.) Make sure you do 1/2" or L19 studs and upgraded HG though.
Last edited by failsafe306; Jun 27, 2006 at 01:55 PM.
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
The 11560 is a top of the line timed long block from builtzmotors.
It's sleeved, ferrera valves and the works, easily good for over 800whp
I am not in shock about the motor cost, I figured about 10K for that.
I am shocked about everything around that...
I guess I could get the motor and the fuel system and then take the unichip to it's maximum and then later on do the new ems but even that is probably around 20k
other option is to just get the shortblock sleeved
or get an unsleeved long block...
I will have to make some decissions in the next few days
It's sleeved, ferrera valves and the works, easily good for over 800whp
I am not in shock about the motor cost, I figured about 10K for that.
I am shocked about everything around that...
I guess I could get the motor and the fuel system and then take the unichip to it's maximum and then later on do the new ems but even that is probably around 20k
other option is to just get the shortblock sleeved
or get an unsleeved long block...
I will have to make some decissions in the next few days
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Originally Posted by phunk
the best advice if you really want a high HP 350z...
avoid (AT ALL COSTS) attempting to add it up before diving in.
you need to just start buying all the parts without paying any regard to what you are doing and do not tell any of your family. try and get most of it on the way within a 1 week period before any credit card bills show up.
adding it up before-hand will definatly eliminate your chances of following thru with the project. especially if you share the results with any family members.
if you end up in financial stress afterwords, you can do what 50% of people do when they finish an extremely expensive project - sell the car for 40% of what you have invested in it... and your out. no problem.
avoid (AT ALL COSTS) attempting to add it up before diving in.
you need to just start buying all the parts without paying any regard to what you are doing and do not tell any of your family. try and get most of it on the way within a 1 week period before any credit card bills show up.
adding it up before-hand will definatly eliminate your chances of following thru with the project. especially if you share the results with any family members.
if you end up in financial stress afterwords, you can do what 50% of people do when they finish an extremely expensive project - sell the car for 40% of what you have invested in it... and your out. no problem.
LOL
there is a lot of truth in this
The fuel system in a customers APS TT car that has 9:1 pistons and jwt cams was absolutely maxed out on a dynojet at 435-440rwhp. i changed only the injectors out to 550cc and now we are positively maxed out a 515rwhp @ 11psi, and its not exactly that safe on the top end as is. i am adding an adjustable FPR in replacement to the APS one so that I can put a few more PSI in there so the injectors are not maxing out just to make the current power.
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From: u.s.a
Originally Posted by tropicalypso
** SIGH**
It is becoming more and more apparent that I will not have a Z with forced induction.
It is becoming more and more apparent that I will not have a Z with forced induction.
well it all depends on what you want out of the car.
if you bolt on a turbo and keep it at low boost and maybe upgrade some internals then i dont see why you would have any problems.
but if you want to run high boost then yeah you will need to do more. but a basic kit with low boost will be ok.
IMO
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Originally Posted by phunk
The fuel system in a customers APS TT car that has 9:1 pistons and jwt cams was absolutely maxed out on a dynojet at 435-440rwhp. i changed only the injectors out to 550cc and now we are positively maxed out a 515rwhp @ 11psi, and its not exactly that safe on the top end as is. i am adding an adjustable FPR in replacement to the APS one so that I can put a few more PSI in there so the injectors are not maxing out just to make the current power.
Thanks!
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From: In my hoop
My build includes the following
Arias 9.0:1 ES pistons
Pauter Rods
L19 Head studs
Cometik head gaskets
Main stud kit
Koyo radiator
RC550 injectors
APS 3" Exhaust
APS 3.5 DP's
Forge actuators
UTEC ECU
I am shooting for around the 500-530 mark. Phunk, you've got me wondering whether its worth me buying a new fuel system now, would the APS extreme system overkill for my goals?
Arias 9.0:1 ES pistons
Pauter Rods
L19 Head studs
Cometik head gaskets
Main stud kit
Koyo radiator
RC550 injectors
APS 3" Exhaust
APS 3.5 DP's
Forge actuators
UTEC ECU
I am shooting for around the 500-530 mark. Phunk, you've got me wondering whether its worth me buying a new fuel system now, would the APS extreme system overkill for my goals?
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
Holy Crap!
So I saved up about $17k to get a build engine in order to hit the mid 600whp mark. If I ever want to go higher I don't want to start over again so I want to get the engine done right from the start....Sleeved block and all.
Now it seems everyday this cost goes up once everything is included.
So I got the engine priced right now at $11560
then there's the fcon or EMS $3000
then I just found out the APS fuel system is $1990
ATS clutch $2000
Actuators don't know yet (guess is $500?)
can I get away with a 2.5 test pipes and exhaust? Probably not
of course then there's the core charge of $2500 (which I should get back but not right away)
then there's the engine swap cost and turning probably another 4k
so we're now at around $25500
How in the universe do you guys afford this???????
I make good money but holy crap
I think I have to rethink all this and just upgrade my shortblock and push to 550...but even then it'll be steep
I am seriosly frustrated I was so looking forward to this
I'm ready to just cry now
So I saved up about $17k to get a build engine in order to hit the mid 600whp mark. If I ever want to go higher I don't want to start over again so I want to get the engine done right from the start....Sleeved block and all.
Now it seems everyday this cost goes up once everything is included.
So I got the engine priced right now at $11560
then there's the fcon or EMS $3000
then I just found out the APS fuel system is $1990
ATS clutch $2000
Actuators don't know yet (guess is $500?)
can I get away with a 2.5 test pipes and exhaust? Probably not
of course then there's the core charge of $2500 (which I should get back but not right away)
then there's the engine swap cost and turning probably another 4k
so we're now at around $25500
How in the universe do you guys afford this???????
I make good money but holy crap
I think I have to rethink all this and just upgrade my shortblock and push to 550...but even then it'll be steep
I am seriosly frustrated I was so looking forward to this
I'm ready to just cry now
4k is too much for motor install and a tune, maybe 2k
Maybe you should just go Utech? 1000.00 vs 3000.00 save 2k.
That would put you at about 19k. Have you spoke with any shops? Odds are if you do all this with one shop they will cut you a hell of a break.
Originally Posted by phunk
The fuel system in a customers APS TT car that has 9:1 pistons and jwt cams was absolutely maxed out on a dynojet at 435-440rwhp.
Originally Posted by t32gzz
Remove and reinstall a motor typically costs $2500+, the tuning will usually run between $500 and $750.
Originally Posted by mrtomcat
Question:
what is the furthest I can push the current APS fuel system?
Is this something that I can hold off on for now?
what is the furthest I can push the current APS fuel system?
Is this something that I can hold off on for now?
do this in stages...but do not cut any corners...
figure out what your total, final goal is...if it is 600rwhp with the ability to go higher..then the motor we figured out for you is what you should stick with...
go with a descent clutch/flywheel for now (pulling a clutch and swapping may be $300+ in labor, you can hold off on a $2k clutch for now)...fuel system: push the APS one to the max and stay at that power level for awhile...
when you have the resources to step it up, they will be fairly easy to install bolt ons (without having to pull the motor)...
my $0.02
-TODD
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
my advice:
do this in stages...but do not cut any corners...
figure out what your total, final goal is...if it is 600rwhp with the ability to go higher..then the motor we figured out for you is what you should stick with...
go with a descent clutch/flywheel for now (pulling a clutch and swapping may be $300+ in labor, you can hold off on a $2k clutch for now)...fuel system: push the APS one to the max and stay at that power level for awhile...
when you have the resources to step it up, they will be fairly easy to install bolt ons (without having to pull the motor)...
my $0.02
-TODD
do this in stages...but do not cut any corners...
figure out what your total, final goal is...if it is 600rwhp with the ability to go higher..then the motor we figured out for you is what you should stick with...
go with a descent clutch/flywheel for now (pulling a clutch and swapping may be $300+ in labor, you can hold off on a $2k clutch for now)...fuel system: push the APS one to the max and stay at that power level for awhile...
when you have the resources to step it up, they will be fairly easy to install bolt ons (without having to pull the motor)...
my $0.02
-TODD
I made my decission:
I will get the original Long Block spec'ed withouth the ferraro valves at $9660
from Builtzmotors
I will keep my jwt clutch until it gives up then get the ATS
I just ordered the APS Extreme Fuel System from GRD
I just pmed Sharif about the Forge Actuators
I will keep the Unichip for now and then upgrade either to the EMS or Fcon later on.
This brings my price to about $14k in parts
Now it's time to negotiate with Brainstorm and/or GTM about install and tuning prices...
I am shaking right now...this was a big decission
Thank you all for helping me make this decission!